Late Tuesday night, a massive slide covered the Sea to Sky Highway in the Porteau Cove area. The highway will be closed for at least 5 days, an estimate that officials think is fairly reasonable, considering that the debris is piled 30-ft high, and is covering 250-ft of the roadway. There is an alternate route through Duffy Lake, and they are also considering using a temporary ferry service. For more information, please read The Vancouver Sun or click here.Thursday, July 31, 2008
Breaking News: Roadslide Blocks Highway to Squamish and Whistler
Late Tuesday night, a massive slide covered the Sea to Sky Highway in the Porteau Cove area. The highway will be closed for at least 5 days, an estimate that officials think is fairly reasonable, considering that the debris is piled 30-ft high, and is covering 250-ft of the roadway. There is an alternate route through Duffy Lake, and they are also considering using a temporary ferry service. For more information, please read The Vancouver Sun or click here.
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- July 31, 2008
NORTHWEST:
.
--On July 27th, Dr. Walter Lee, a 55 year-old oncologist from Eugene, Oregon, was killed on Mount Hood. Lee and his 20 year-old son were descending the Cooper Spur route when the man was struck by rockfall and thrown from his stance. To read more, click here.
.
--There is a request floating around the internet for input on a new management strategy for the climbing resources in Squamish. The last series of policies were generated a decade ago. Certainly, anytime they open up a climbing management plan for revision, we as climbers risk losing access to certain crags or the use of fixed anchors or both. To read more, click here.
.
SIERRA:
.
--Wolverines were long thought to have disappeared in the Sierra, but an image caught on a hidden wildlife viewing camera has changed everything. On February 28th, wildlife biologists captured an image of an animal that is indisputably a wolverine. Proof of the animal's existence in the Sierra may put it on the endangered species list and have an impact on numerous land use decisions. To read more, click more.
.
--There is a conversation going on at supertopo.com about the garbage at Camp 6 on the Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite. The camp is nothing more than a large ledge on a pillar. The backside of the pillar is detached and filled with years of garbage. The original poster in the supertopo thread proposes to clean out the hole and then plug it with something that looks like granite. The Nose sees thousands of ascents a year and is considered by many to be "the best" rock climb in the world. To read more, click here.
.
--Three-thousand five-hundred firefighters continue to battle a blaze set by a target shooter just outside the boundaries of Yosemite National Park. Twenty-one houses have been destroyed and nearly four thousand more are under threat. The visibility in Yosemite Valley is terrible and some visitors are encountering breathing problems. To read more, click here and here and here.
..
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
.
--A horrible tragedy was suffered in the Alps this week. A Dutch family of four -- all roped together -- fell, after one member stumbled and was was unable to regain his footing. The family fell nearly 1,600 feet before their bodies came to a rest. The mother was the only survivor. To read more, click here.
.
--Russian climbers, Valery Babonov and Victor Afanaziev, summited Broad Peak (26,400 feet) via a new route on the northwest face on July 17, 2008. To read more, click here.
.
--There have been two high profile helicopter rescues in the Karakoram in recent weeks. Italian alpinists Simon Kehrer and Walter Nones were plucked off of Nanga Parabat (25,643') last week after suffering the loss of a team member followed by an epic attempt to get off the mountain. On July 27th, a group of Austrians were rescued from Spantik (23,054') after their guide suffered a broken leg. To read more, click here.
.
--In a related story, British climber Benjamin Cheek is still missing on Shimshal Whitehorn (20,679') in the Karakoram. To read more, click here.
.
--It appears that for the second year in a row, the north side of Mount Everest will be closed to climbers. Chinese officials in conjunction with the Tibetan Environmental Protection Bureau indicate that they will close the north side for a "clean-up." To read more, click here.
.
--Speaking of Mount Everest, this series of video podcasts of an Everest expedition is pretty cool.
.
--In 1974, Frenchman Philippe Petite strung a cable between the twin towers and proceeded to walk across the void several times. A new documentary entitled "Man on a Wire" explores this daredevil's motivations. It appears that what brought him to the skyscrapers is what brings the strongest of climbers into the mountains: a need to tempt the impossible. To read more, click here.
.
--Bears are seldom a real threat to human beings. Occasionally however, an incident will take place that reminds us that we are not at the top of the food chain. This was the case at a mine in a remote region of Russia last week when a pack of at least thirty hungry bears attacked and killed two guards. Understandibly, terrified miners are refusing to go back to work. To read more, click here.
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Discovery Channel Looking for Adventurers
Conditions Report -- July 30, 2008
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--The toilets on both the north and the south side of Mount Baker are now in place. Enjoy!
--One of our teams witnessed a massive -- Alaska sized -- snow bridge collapse just below the North Ridge of Mount Baker this weekend. It appears that there was some instability in the crevasses below the surface. One guide indicated that he thought it simply wasn't freezing down there. The bridge that collapsed was forty by forty.
--The beautiful weather is providing for a lot of great ascents. People have reported on climbs of Forbidden Peak, Sherpa Peak, Mount Rainier, and Bonanza Peak.
--The most hardcore skiers are still at it. Here is a report from Mount Rainier and here's one from Mount Olympus.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--A major fire is burning on the west side of Yosemite, just outside the boundaries of the park. The fire has already consumed 25 houses and displaced at least three hundred people. At least 3,400 firefighters are working to get the blaze under control. To read more, click here.
--This is a very nice trip report with great photos from a climb of Temple Crag in the Eastern Sierra. And here is another less descriptive trip report from Matthes Crest.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
--Forecast for Denali
--The Denali season is over. Most parties that are still climbing in the area are focused on more obscure objectives.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite and Rainier may be found here.
ALPS:
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--The Denali season is over. Most parties that are still climbing in the area are focused on more obscure objectives.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite and Rainier may be found here.
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
Trip Report: Mount Baker
We just received a quick trip report from Justin Wood, lead guide on this past weekend's Mount Baker climb:
Day one: Ten climbers joined fellow AAI guide Kristen Looper and me at the AAI office Saturday morning, and after reviewing gear, efficiently packing our packs, and loading up the AAI vans, we headed for the Coleman glacier. We arrived at the Hogsback Camp at 2:00pm with very high spirits, though the weather was looking gloomy. After setting up camp, we took a short break for lunch. We then spent some time reviewing the use of the technical equipment we would be using and introduced and practiced several climbing knots. We concluded the evening by demonstrating how to properly rope up for glacier travel.
Day two: Although it was raining, everyone had a lot of enthusiasm to continue learning the skills necessary to complete this climb. We spent more time on climbing technique and working on knots, practiced self-arrest, and concluded the day applying glacier travel skills during a tour of part of the Coleman glacier. We were all excited when the skies cleared around 7:00pm.
Day three (Summit day): It was quite hard to sleep once the weather turned nice, and we knew we were going to get a real chance to make the summit. But we did get up in time for a 1:00am departure from the 6000’ camp. We were treated to starry skies during the first three hours that we were headed for the summit, and we enjoyed the sight of the rising crescent moon. As the sun came up, we were nearing the summit, and at about 7:30am, all 12 members of our group made it to the top. We were lucky to have expansive views of the Cascades in three directions and the San Juan Islands to the west. After enjoying some views, we made an efficient return to our camp where we had some food, took a rest, and packed up. We then headed down the trail and made it back to Bellingham and the AAI office by 6:00pm, celebrating our success!
Day one: Ten climbers joined fellow AAI guide Kristen Looper and me at the AAI office Saturday morning, and after reviewing gear, efficiently packing our packs, and loading up the AAI vans, we headed for the Coleman glacier. We arrived at the Hogsback Camp at 2:00pm with very high spirits, though the weather was looking gloomy. After setting up camp, we took a short break for lunch. We then spent some time reviewing the use of the technical equipment we would be using and introduced and practiced several climbing knots. We concluded the evening by demonstrating how to properly rope up for glacier travel.
Day two: Although it was raining, everyone had a lot of enthusiasm to continue learning the skills necessary to complete this climb. We spent more time on climbing technique and working on knots, practiced self-arrest, and concluded the day applying glacier travel skills during a tour of part of the Coleman glacier. We were all excited when the skies cleared around 7:00pm.
Day three (Summit day): It was quite hard to sleep once the weather turned nice, and we knew we were going to get a real chance to make the summit. But we did get up in time for a 1:00am departure from the 6000’ camp. We were treated to starry skies during the first three hours that we were headed for the summit, and we enjoyed the sight of the rising crescent moon. As the sun came up, we were nearing the summit, and at about 7:30am, all 12 members of our group made it to the top. We were lucky to have expansive views of the Cascades in three directions and the San Juan Islands to the west. After enjoying some views, we made an efficient return to our camp where we had some food, took a rest, and packed up. We then headed down the trail and made it back to Bellingham and the AAI office by 6:00pm, celebrating our success!
2008 Heather Meadows Guest Speaker Program
The following came from the good folks at the Mount-Baker Snoqualmie National Forest. Some of these look like very interesting programs!
Sunday, August 3
An Excursion on Fire and Ice
Join Whatcom County Parks interpreter David Bean for a walk through the geologic history of the Heather Meadows area.
Saturday, August 9
Mountain Goats of Mt. Baker
Mt. Baker Ranger District biologist Don Gay speaks about local mountain
goat herds.
Sunday, August 10
A Tale of Many Volcanoes: Volcanic Rocks at Artist Point
Join Dave Tucker, Mount Baker volcanologist and research associate at Western Washington University’s Geology Department, for a geological trip back in time. Meet at 1 p.m. near the bathrooms in the Artist Point parking lot.
Saturday, August 16
Avalanche Awareness
Learn more about how to be safe in a mountain environment from an Avalanche Safety Awareness Program educational volunteer.
Sunday, August 18
Subalpine Bird Walk
Come and find out about the birds of Heather Meadows. This walk in the Bagley Lakes area, led by Forest Service Volunteer Mary-Beth Phelan, will start at the Heather Meadows Visitor. *this program is not wheelchair accessible*.
Saturday, August 23
Stringing the Past Together--12 noon
Enjoy a musical presentation about the human history of the Mt. Baker area. Original songs are written and performed by local musician Jimmy Brite and wilderness ranger Luca Williams. Audience participation is encouraged. Come blow your horn for Jerry Bourn.
Subalpine Plant Walk 1 p.m.
Join Mountain Steward and former Komo Kulshan Native Plant Society club president Walt Lockwood for a guided plant walk around Bagley Lakes. *this program is not wheelchair accessible*
Sunday, August 24
Mt. Baker the Stories Behind the Beauty: Reminisces of Jake Steiner as told to Virginia Hoyt, Part 1
Local historian and author Virginia Hoyt will present a slide show about the road development of the area. Jake Steiner was born in Glacier. His father homesteaded in the area in the late 1800s.
Saturday, August 30
Nooksack Tribal Stories
Join Nooksack elder Tammy Cooper-Woodrich for traditional stories about the animals, plants, and people of the Nooksack River drainage.
Sunday, August 31
Mt. Baker the Stories Behind the Beauty: Reminisces of Jake Steiner as told to Virginia Hoyt, Part 2
Local historian and author Virginia Hoyt will present a slide show about the trees of the area. Jake Steiner was born in Glacier. His father homesteaded in the area in the late 1800s.
All programs start at 1 p.m. at the Heather Meadows Visitor Center unless otherwise noted. All programs are accessible unless otherwise noted. Programs are free, but a valid parking pass is required. For more information call the Glacier Public Service Center at 360-599-2714, open daily, 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m.
Sunday, August 3
An Excursion on Fire and Ice
Join Whatcom County Parks interpreter David Bean for a walk through the geologic history of the Heather Meadows area.
Saturday, August 9
Mountain Goats of Mt. Baker
Mt. Baker Ranger District biologist Don Gay speaks about local mountain
goat herds.
Sunday, August 10
A Tale of Many Volcanoes: Volcanic Rocks at Artist Point
Join Dave Tucker, Mount Baker volcanologist and research associate at Western Washington University’s Geology Department, for a geological trip back in time. Meet at 1 p.m. near the bathrooms in the Artist Point parking lot.
Saturday, August 16
Avalanche Awareness
Learn more about how to be safe in a mountain environment from an Avalanche Safety Awareness Program educational volunteer.
Sunday, August 18
Subalpine Bird Walk
Come and find out about the birds of Heather Meadows. This walk in the Bagley Lakes area, led by Forest Service Volunteer Mary-Beth Phelan, will start at the Heather Meadows Visitor. *this program is not wheelchair accessible*.
Saturday, August 23
Stringing the Past Together--12 noon
Enjoy a musical presentation about the human history of the Mt. Baker area. Original songs are written and performed by local musician Jimmy Brite and wilderness ranger Luca Williams. Audience participation is encouraged. Come blow your horn for Jerry Bourn.
Subalpine Plant Walk 1 p.m.
Join Mountain Steward and former Komo Kulshan Native Plant Society club president Walt Lockwood for a guided plant walk around Bagley Lakes. *this program is not wheelchair accessible*
Sunday, August 24
Mt. Baker the Stories Behind the Beauty: Reminisces of Jake Steiner as told to Virginia Hoyt, Part 1
Local historian and author Virginia Hoyt will present a slide show about the road development of the area. Jake Steiner was born in Glacier. His father homesteaded in the area in the late 1800s.
Saturday, August 30
Nooksack Tribal Stories
Join Nooksack elder Tammy Cooper-Woodrich for traditional stories about the animals, plants, and people of the Nooksack River drainage.
Sunday, August 31
Mt. Baker the Stories Behind the Beauty: Reminisces of Jake Steiner as told to Virginia Hoyt, Part 2
Local historian and author Virginia Hoyt will present a slide show about the trees of the area. Jake Steiner was born in Glacier. His father homesteaded in the area in the late 1800s.
August and September Climbing Events
--August 8-9 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Mammut Bouldering Championship
--August 8-10 -- Morgantown, WV -- Appalachian Wilderness Medicine Conference
--August 16 -- Mt. Baker Ski Area, WA -- Avalanche Awareness
--August 16 -- Mt. Baker Ski Area, WA -- Avalanche Awareness
--August 16-17 -- Bear Valley, CA -- Bear Valley Adventure Sports Festival
--August 16-23 -- Bicz Gorges National Park, Romania -- International Youth Climbing Camp
--September 5-7 -- Pine Mountain, CA -- Pine Mountain Pulldown
--September 18-21 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- HERA Climb for Life
--September 24-28 -- Yosemite Valley, CA -- Yosemite Facelift
--September 29 -- Eugene, OR -- Justen Sjong Slideshow
Monday, July 28, 2008
Rock Climbing Styles
Many beginning level climbers are confused by the terminology used to define different styles of climbing. This isn't too surprising because there are a lot of terms that get thrown around. The following is a quick discussion of the different types and styles of climbing and what they entail.
Toprope Climbing
When a climber uses the term "toprope," he is referring to a technique wherein an anchor is set at the top of the cliff. A rope runs from a belayer at the base of the cliff, up to the anchor and then back down to the climber. As the climber ascends the wall, the belayer takes in rope through his belay device. If the climber falls, the belayer merely locks off his device, arresting the fall. This system is designed to stop the climber's fall immediately.
Toproped climbing is very safe because no one is required to "lead." In most cases, climbers are simply able walk around to the top of a cliff in order to set-up the system.
Lead Climbing
The leader is the first person to climb a cliff. As the leader ascends the wall he drags a rope up that is tied to his harness. As he works his way up a wall he will put in rock protection. After the "pro" is in place, the leader may clip the rope into the gear while the follower belays from below. Should the leader fall, the follower will "catch" him in midair with the belay device.
Toprope Climbing
When a climber uses the term "toprope," he is referring to a technique wherein an anchor is set at the top of the cliff. A rope runs from a belayer at the base of the cliff, up to the anchor and then back down to the climber. As the climber ascends the wall, the belayer takes in rope through his belay device. If the climber falls, the belayer merely locks off his device, arresting the fall. This system is designed to stop the climber's fall immediately.
Toproped climbing is very safe because no one is required to "lead." In most cases, climbers are simply able walk around to the top of a cliff in order to set-up the system.Lead Climbing
The leader is the first person to climb a cliff. As the leader ascends the wall he drags a rope up that is tied to his harness. As he works his way up a wall he will put in rock protection. After the "pro" is in place, the leader may clip the rope into the gear while the follower belays from below. Should the leader fall, the follower will "catch" him in midair with the belay device.
Of course, if the leader falls 10 feet above the last piece of protection, he will actually fall 20 feet or more before the follower catches him. That makes the leader's job quite risky. Once the leader is on top, he may build an anchor, clip into it and put his partner on belay, essentially providing the follower a toprope.
Lead climbing may be done on both traditional and sport climbs.
Free ClimbingFree climbing does not mean, "without a rope." Conversely, free climbing absolutely requires a rope. The defining characteristic of free climbing is that it does not require an individual to pull on protection. The protection exists to keep a climber from hitting the ground should he fall, not to aid the climber on his ascent.
Aid Climbing
The polar opposite of free climbing is aid climbing. When an individual aid climbs, he places a piece of protection and then clips a nylon ladder to it. He then climbs up the ladder and places another piece, repeating the process over and over again. The climber is using direct aid to ascend the cliff face. This is often done when it is much too difficult to free climb. 
Trad Climbing
Sport Climbing
The polar opposite of free climbing is aid climbing. When an individual aid climbs, he places a piece of protection and then clips a nylon ladder to it. He then climbs up the ladder and places another piece, repeating the process over and over again. The climber is using direct aid to ascend the cliff face. This is often done when it is much too difficult to free climb.
Big routes in Zion National Park and in Yosemite National Park are commonly aided. These are the massive routes that sometimes require portaledges or bivies on the wall. Big wall aid climbing is in many ways analogous to vertical backpacking. And while most big wall climbs require some free climbing, they tend to lean toward direct aid.
Free Soloing
Free Soloing
Free soloing is the art of climbing without any ropes whatsoever. A fall under these circumstances will result in serious injury or death. Free soloing is incredibly dangerous and is only practiced by a small percentage of climbers.
Trad Climbing
Traditional climbing, or "trad" climbing, is a style of climbing that requires the leader to carry all of his protection with him. In other words, the leader carries an array of camming devices, wired nuts and other assorted odds and ends that might be used to protect the route. Traditionalists will not alter to rock in order to create protection for the leader. In other words, a true traditional route does not have any bolts on it.
Sport Climbing
Sport climbing is a style of climbing that requires significantly less equipment than trad climbing. A sport climb is a route manufactured with bolts. A true sport climb does not require any traditional gear at all.
Many consider sport climbing to be much safer than trad climbing because in most cases the routes have been manufactured in such a way that they are safe for a leader. As a result, this is an incredibly popular form of climbing.
Conclusion
Climbing is an incredibly varied sport and the preceding is only the most elemental breakdown of it from a stylistic perspective. That said, an understanding of this beginner level material will help the novice climber to understand the many conversations about style that take place in the climbing world every day.
Sunday, July 27, 2008
Last chance! Submit Your Photo Today!
Think you can beat this photo on the right? Well, they won the January 2008 Photo Contest, so make sure you've got something good!The next AAI E-Newsletter and Photo Contest is set to release August 1st! This means that the deadline for new photos for the contest is coming right up. If you've got some great shots of a trip with us, or on an expedition of your own, we'd love to publish them in our E-Newsletter.
To check out the May 2008 photo contest, click here.
To submit your photos to the AAI Photo Contest, email them to climberspath@aai.cc.
You can win great prizes!
1st Place: $100 gift certificate for trips or gear
2nd Place: $75 gift certificate for trips or gear
3rd Place: $50 gift certificate for trips or gear
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Weekend Warrior -- Videos to Get You Stoked!
Do any of you know what time of the week it is? If you said that it is time for another edition of Weekend Warrior than you are absolutely correct! I hope that all of you are making the most of your weekends this summer and if you aren't....just watch these videos and you won't be able to keep yourself from going outside and playing.
If you don't have a lot of time to spare this weekend then this first video is for you. It is short but jam packed with incredibly dramatic alpine scenery and exciting climbing footage. This video is the trailer for the Alps IMAX movie and even though it came out quite some time ago it is still worth a watch for a quick adrenaline rush.
The second video is for anyone who can't stop daydreaming of powder turns and the beautiful backcountry that so often accompanies them. Watch "The Spirit of Snow" and get stoked to search for those elusive summer slopes high in the mountains.
The last video on the line-up features some amazing desert rock climbing. Watch as Rob Pizem and Mike Brumbaugh attempt to climb 5 huge desert towers in a 24 hour period. They aren't just taking the easy way either. After I watched this video I couldn't wait for the desert to cool down and make climbing there tolerable.
If you don't have a lot of time to spare this weekend then this first video is for you. It is short but jam packed with incredibly dramatic alpine scenery and exciting climbing footage. This video is the trailer for the Alps IMAX movie and even though it came out quite some time ago it is still worth a watch for a quick adrenaline rush.
The second video is for anyone who can't stop daydreaming of powder turns and the beautiful backcountry that so often accompanies them. Watch "The Spirit of Snow" and get stoked to search for those elusive summer slopes high in the mountains.
The last video on the line-up features some amazing desert rock climbing. Watch as Rob Pizem and Mike Brumbaugh attempt to climb 5 huge desert towers in a 24 hour period. They aren't just taking the easy way either. After I watched this video I couldn't wait for the desert to cool down and make climbing there tolerable.
Friday, July 25, 2008
Jason Becomes a Father: Round 2
Jason Martin, AAI Program Coordinator and Guide, is now the proud father of a brand new son, born July 24, 2008! Jason and his wife Krista have named the new little guy Caden Jase Martin. Check out the pictures below of Jason, Krista, baby Caden, and his older sister Holly.
Congratulations Jason, we are so excited for the whole family!
Congratulations Jason, we are so excited for the whole family!
Holly and Jason take a walk the day before Caden arrives.
Caden Jase Martin
Krista and Caden
Holly and Caden get to know each other.
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Trip Report: North Ridge of Mount Baker
Last week Bill Thompson and guide Ian McEleney climbed the North Ridge of Mount Baker. Read Ian's story below:I met up with Bill at the AAI office Friday morning. By late afternoon, we were walking into a busy camp at about 6000-feet on the Hogsback. We settled in to our tents and tried to go to bed early for our alpine start the next morning.
After only a few hours of sleep we were roping up and picking our way across the upper Coleman Glacier. Navigating by headlamp through crevasses that could swallow a house will always be exciting, no matter how much glacier experience you have. About halfway to the base of the ridge we came across the tracks of another party. I've learned that following tracks isn’t always a good idea. This is because the climbers who made them might not have had the same destination as you, and even if they did, they might not know how to get there! However, we could see the headlamps of this particular party in the distance so we knew they were going to the North Ridge. After reminding ourselves not to follow their tracks if we didn’t like where they went, we decided to follow them.
We took the direct start to the route, which went up a steep snowfield sometimes called The Hourglass. Earlier in the season, this area was a mellow snow bench leading up to steeper ice. Last week, however, this bench featured a crevasse and a 25-degree slope of hard water ice mixed with gravel. We pulled our second tools out of our packs and went to work. This terrain took us a little while to negotiate, but eventually we were climbing some steep ice to gain a 60-degree ramp that went up about two pitches high. Bill had expressed some nervousness about the steep ice, but when showtime came, he made quick work of it. Later, Bill told me that "The climb was harder than I expected, not because it was too technical, but because the harder sections went on for longer than I had read about." But the steep ice was hard and in the shade, so pulling over onto the sunny ramp with its one-swing “hero” ice was a pleasure. Above the ramp we climbed a little more steep snow, and then it was time for lunch.
After our lunch break we faced our last hurdle, the bergschrund guarding the summit plateau. The best route through this area changes quickly. This time it required climbing two steps of steep snow, the first was about 50 degrees and the second 90 degrees. We had stowed our second tools, but the snow was pretty firm so this wasn’t an issue. Above this, a quick walk put us on top. Though our day certainly wasn’t over (we still had to descend 4000 vertical feet of steep snow and glacier), the technical terrain was almost completely behind us. As Bill said, "Although this route was difficult and technical, it just made the climb all the more satisfying by the end." We could finally start to relax a little and daydream about the first thing we were going to eat when we got back to town.
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- July 24, 2008
NORTHWEST:
--Congratulations are in order to Viren Perumal, Ben Traxler, Dana Hickenbottom, Julie Schoenfeld, and Nathan Zumwalt. This group of guides -- the first three from AAI -- all successfully passed their American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Certification Exam. The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. To learn more about this, click here.
SOUTHWEST:
--Congratulations to Jason Martin! The AAI guide/program coordinator and his wife had a baby boy this morning in Las Vegas. More news to come on this front!
--The search for 44 year-old Ric DeVan has come to a tragic end. Authorities located the man's body near Bishop Pass in the Eastern Sierra. DeVan went missing while on a solo tour on July 5th. Search and Rescue officials suspended the search on Saturday. A backpacker is responsible for discovering the body after investigating a rock slide. To read more about this tragic incident, click here.
ALASKA:
--Eleven year-old Jordon Romero summitted Denali on June 19th. With this feat, Romero became the second 11 year-old to stand on the top of the tallest peak in North America. Denali is the fourth summit in the young man's quest to climb the seven summits. To read more, click here.
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--Respected Italian alpinist Karl Unterkircher was reportedly killed in a crevasse fall on Nanga Parbat (26,660') last week. Unterkircher and his partners were at approximately 20,000 feet when a snow bridge collapsed beneath the climber. Unterkircher fell to the bottom of a deep crevasse. His partners Simon Kehrer and Walter Nones worked through the night to retrieve the man but were ultimately unable to do so. To read more, click here and here.
--Teton climbing guide George Gardner died on Saturday while making a solo ascent of the Lower Exum Ridge. To read more about this tragedy, click here.
--The Merced River in Yosemite Valley is one of the most scenic rivers in the country. The river is currently under federal protection, but what does that protection mean? What level of recreational use is acceptable? Officials in Yosemite National Park must come up with a plan that accommodates both its use and protection. To read more, click here.
--After multiple ascents over the last few months, the New York Time Building is now altering its facade to keep climbers from sending the 52 story building. To read more, click here.
--Climbing guide Frank Sanders decided to do something a little unusual to draw attention to the poverty stricken Native Americans around the Devils Tower National Monument. Over a period of a year, the fifty-seven year old climbed "the Tower" 365 times. To read more, click here.
--Three German climbers who were kidnapped by PKK Kurdish Rebels in Turkey while on an ascent of Mount Ararat were released on Sunday. The three Germans were seized on July 8th, reportedly to protest German pressure on Kurdish rebels' supporters in Germany. To read more, click here.
--Congratulations are in order to Viren Perumal, Ben Traxler, Dana Hickenbottom, Julie Schoenfeld, and Nathan Zumwalt. This group of guides -- the first three from AAI -- all successfully passed their American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Certification Exam. The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. To learn more about this, click here.
SOUTHWEST:
--Congratulations to Jason Martin! The AAI guide/program coordinator and his wife had a baby boy this morning in Las Vegas. More news to come on this front!
--The search for 44 year-old Ric DeVan has come to a tragic end. Authorities located the man's body near Bishop Pass in the Eastern Sierra. DeVan went missing while on a solo tour on July 5th. Search and Rescue officials suspended the search on Saturday. A backpacker is responsible for discovering the body after investigating a rock slide. To read more about this tragic incident, click here.
ALASKA:
--Eleven year-old Jordon Romero summitted Denali on June 19th. With this feat, Romero became the second 11 year-old to stand on the top of the tallest peak in North America. Denali is the fourth summit in the young man's quest to climb the seven summits. To read more, click here.
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--Respected Italian alpinist Karl Unterkircher was reportedly killed in a crevasse fall on Nanga Parbat (26,660') last week. Unterkircher and his partners were at approximately 20,000 feet when a snow bridge collapsed beneath the climber. Unterkircher fell to the bottom of a deep crevasse. His partners Simon Kehrer and Walter Nones worked through the night to retrieve the man but were ultimately unable to do so. To read more, click here and here.
--Teton climbing guide George Gardner died on Saturday while making a solo ascent of the Lower Exum Ridge. To read more about this tragedy, click here.
--The Merced River in Yosemite Valley is one of the most scenic rivers in the country. The river is currently under federal protection, but what does that protection mean? What level of recreational use is acceptable? Officials in Yosemite National Park must come up with a plan that accommodates both its use and protection. To read more, click here.
--After multiple ascents over the last few months, the New York Time Building is now altering its facade to keep climbers from sending the 52 story building. To read more, click here.
--Climbing guide Frank Sanders decided to do something a little unusual to draw attention to the poverty stricken Native Americans around the Devils Tower National Monument. Over a period of a year, the fifty-seven year old climbed "the Tower" 365 times. To read more, click here.
--Three German climbers who were kidnapped by PKK Kurdish Rebels in Turkey while on an ascent of Mount Ararat were released on Sunday. The three Germans were seized on July 8th, reportedly to protest German pressure on Kurdish rebels' supporters in Germany. To read more, click here.
--The Discovery Channel is currently casting a new show about Alaskan adventurers. They are looking for real-life adventure seekers to make the show feel "real." To read more about this, click here.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Conditions Report -- July 23, 2008
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--AAI Guide Alasdair Turner climbed the North Ridge of Mount Baker the other day and had the following to say: "The route is in really good shape. We reached the ice pitches via the normal way to the right of the buttress. It looks like some people have gone left of the buttress, but this adds more time and is not necessary. As far as route beta goes, go straight up. There is a small traverse on the summit to avoid a HUGE shrund, which is worth walking to the edge of to look in since it is big enough to fit many houses inside. To exit the ridge to the summit, dogleg very slightly right (20 meters) and go straight up the steep wall to the summit plateau. The route is in icy shape where it should be, and has perfect hard snow where it should be. I used bomber ice screw belays on the ice pitches and single ice axe belays above that with solid picket placements for running pro."
--The plastic pit toilets will be helicoptered into Mount Baker today. These toilets will be placed at strategic locations on both the north and the south side of the mountain.
--For those of you who are new to climbing in Squamish, it's important to remember that there is a lot of theft in the area. Protect yourself by taking valuables out of your car. To read about one unfortunate victims first trip to Squamish, click here.
--The climbing season has really taken off in Darrington. This particular climbing area is one of the best kept secrets in Washington. To read about the conditions, click here.
--The massive 12.5 square mile Cold Springs fire near Mount Adams was 75 percent contained as of Monday. To read more about this, click here.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--The Denali season is over. Most parties that are still climbing in the area are focused on more obscure objectives.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--AAI Guide Alasdair Turner climbed the North Ridge of Mount Baker the other day and had the following to say: "The route is in really good shape. We reached the ice pitches via the normal way to the right of the buttress. It looks like some people have gone left of the buttress, but this adds more time and is not necessary. As far as route beta goes, go straight up. There is a small traverse on the summit to avoid a HUGE shrund, which is worth walking to the edge of to look in since it is big enough to fit many houses inside. To exit the ridge to the summit, dogleg very slightly right (20 meters) and go straight up the steep wall to the summit plateau. The route is in icy shape where it should be, and has perfect hard snow where it should be. I used bomber ice screw belays on the ice pitches and single ice axe belays above that with solid picket placements for running pro."
--The plastic pit toilets will be helicoptered into Mount Baker today. These toilets will be placed at strategic locations on both the north and the south side of the mountain.
--For those of you who are new to climbing in Squamish, it's important to remember that there is a lot of theft in the area. Protect yourself by taking valuables out of your car. To read about one unfortunate victims first trip to Squamish, click here.
--The climbing season has really taken off in Darrington. This particular climbing area is one of the best kept secrets in Washington. To read about the conditions, click here.
--The massive 12.5 square mile Cold Springs fire near Mount Adams was 75 percent contained as of Monday. To read more about this, click here.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--The Denali season is over. Most parties that are still climbing in the area are focused on more obscure objectives.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
The Problem with Water
It was a few years ago now, but I remember it like yesterday. You don't forget something like that. It's too uncomfortable to forget. I was on Mount Baker and I drank some bad water. You can imagine what happened next. It wasn't pretty.
There are two major water-born protozoa that climbers must be aware of. Both Giardia and Cryptosporidium occur in lakes, rivers and streams throughout North America. They each take two to twenty days to manifest themselves. The most common symptoms of these protozoa are nausea, diarrhea, fever, headaches, stomach cramps, flatulence and belches that reek like rotten eggs.
In addition to protozoa, climbers must be concerned about viruses and bacteria in the water. We don't have to worry about water-born viruses too much in North America. Infectious hepatitis and other viruses are more commonly found in tropical waters. Bacteria such as salmonella and Escherichia coli may be found in some contaminated mountain water sources and alpinists should protect themselves against them.
There are three common ways to treat problematic water. The first way is to boil it, the second way is to disinfect with chemicals and the third way is to filter it.
Boiling Water:
There is perhaps no better way to kill anything that might live in the water and wants to live in your stomach than to boil it. Some people argue that you must bring your water to a boil for ten minutes. The reality is that if you bring the water to a rolling boil and then turn off your stove, anything that might be a real problem will be taken care of.
Treatment:
It's common for guides to use iodine to treat their water. Iodine tablets effectively kill viruses and bacteria...and they also effectively make the water taste terrible. Iodine is less effective agains Giardia and Cryptosporidium.
There is the possibility that too much iodine may be bad for your thyroid. This may not be too big of a deal for weekend warriors, but for those who spend a significant amount of time in the field, this could pose a serious health risk.
Another chemical, chlorine dioxide, is gaining popularity for treating water. This chemical reliably kills viruses, bacteria, Giardia and Cryptospridium, however the contact time required for killing protozoa may be unacceptably long for some climbers.
Water Filtration:
These are heavy items for alpinists to carry, but they do provide the quickest filtration. And though water filters do an excellent job removing protozoa, most models are less effective in with viruses and bacteria. A small percentage of the filters on the market include an integral iodine chamber that will treat the water for additional pathogens, but these models are more expensive, less common and may not always be effective.
There was a time when it was possible to trust running water in the mountains. That time is long gone. Today the wisest course of action is to treat all of the water that you drink...that or risk the uncomfortable consequences.
--Jason D. Martin
There are two major water-born protozoa that climbers must be aware of. Both Giardia and Cryptosporidium occur in lakes, rivers and streams throughout North America. They each take two to twenty days to manifest themselves. The most common symptoms of these protozoa are nausea, diarrhea, fever, headaches, stomach cramps, flatulence and belches that reek like rotten eggs.
In addition to protozoa, climbers must be concerned about viruses and bacteria in the water. We don't have to worry about water-born viruses too much in North America. Infectious hepatitis and other viruses are more commonly found in tropical waters. Bacteria such as salmonella and Escherichia coli may be found in some contaminated mountain water sources and alpinists should protect themselves against them.
There are three common ways to treat problematic water. The first way is to boil it, the second way is to disinfect with chemicals and the third way is to filter it.
Boiling Water:
There is perhaps no better way to kill anything that might live in the water and wants to live in your stomach than to boil it. Some people argue that you must bring your water to a boil for ten minutes. The reality is that if you bring the water to a rolling boil and then turn off your stove, anything that might be a real problem will be taken care of.
Treatment:
It's common for guides to use iodine to treat their water. Iodine tablets effectively kill viruses and bacteria...and they also effectively make the water taste terrible. Iodine is less effective agains Giardia and Cryptosporidium.
There is the possibility that too much iodine may be bad for your thyroid. This may not be too big of a deal for weekend warriors, but for those who spend a significant amount of time in the field, this could pose a serious health risk.
Another chemical, chlorine dioxide, is gaining popularity for treating water. This chemical reliably kills viruses, bacteria, Giardia and Cryptospridium, however the contact time required for killing protozoa may be unacceptably long for some climbers.
Water Filtration:
These are heavy items for alpinists to carry, but they do provide the quickest filtration. And though water filters do an excellent job removing protozoa, most models are less effective in with viruses and bacteria. A small percentage of the filters on the market include an integral iodine chamber that will treat the water for additional pathogens, but these models are more expensive, less common and may not always be effective.
There was a time when it was possible to trust running water in the mountains. That time is long gone. Today the wisest course of action is to treat all of the water that you drink...that or risk the uncomfortable consequences.
--Jason D. Martin
July and August Climbing Events
SOUTHWEST and SIERRA:
--August 16-17 -- Bear Valley Adventure Sports Festival
--Former AAI Guide and writer Majka Burhardt will be presenting a slide show on her new book, Vertical Ethiopia in Boulder, Greenwich, Boston, New Paltz, San Francisco, and Telluride. For more info, click here.
--July 27 -- Allgäu Mountains, Germany -- UIAA Global Youth Summit: Hot rocks wild water camp in Germany
--August 6-11 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Outdoor Retailer Show
--August 8-9 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Mammut Bouldering Championship
--August 16-23 -- Bicz Gorges National Park, Romania -- International Youth Climbing Camp
--August 16-17 -- Bear Valley Adventure Sports Festival
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--Former AAI Guide and writer Majka Burhardt will be presenting a slide show on her new book, Vertical Ethiopia in Boulder, Greenwich, Boston, New Paltz, San Francisco, and Telluride. For more info, click here.
--July 27 -- Allgäu Mountains, Germany -- UIAA Global Youth Summit: Hot rocks wild water camp in Germany
--August 6-11 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Outdoor Retailer Show
--August 8-9 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Mammut Bouldering Championship
--August 16-23 -- Bicz Gorges National Park, Romania -- International Youth Climbing Camp
Monday, July 21, 2008
Non-Event Feedback Loops
Many climbing and ski mountaineering accidents are the result of human error. There are a number of types of human error, but the most disconcerting and common type results from a non-event feedback loop.
--I've been doing it this this way for years and nothing bad has ever happened.
--We skied the slope all day and it was fine. How were we to know that it would slide?
--The boot-track went right under the ice cliff. I just went the way everybody else went.
The thinking process behind non-event feedback is predicated on the following belief: Nothing bad happened last time and nothing bad happened to someone else; therefore, nothing bad will happen this time to me. The psychology of non-event feedback is complex, but its very existence leads to following reality:
The crag that you climb the most, the slope that you ski the most, the mountain that you've been up the most times...these are the most dangerous places that you will ever go.
Non-event feedback takes on a new dimension with group dynamics. A beginner may follow a competent leader up a mountain. The leader may look at the conditions and decide that they're safe. If the leader doesn't go through his entire thinking process, the beginner may then make the assumption that the conditions are always safe.
Avalanche research indicates that the likelihood of skiers tackling a dangerous slope increases dramatically after one person successfully skis the slope first. In other words, once someone sees someone else get away with something, they subconsciously believe that they can get away with it too.
The only way to avoid getting stuck in non-event feedback loops is to constantly question yourself. Is this safe today? Am I just following the leader? And lastly, am I responding to the conditions as they are or as I wish they were?
--Jason D. Martin
--I've been doing it this this way for years and nothing bad has ever happened.
--We skied the slope all day and it was fine. How were we to know that it would slide?
--The boot-track went right under the ice cliff. I just went the way everybody else went.
The thinking process behind non-event feedback is predicated on the following belief: Nothing bad happened last time and nothing bad happened to someone else; therefore, nothing bad will happen this time to me. The psychology of non-event feedback is complex, but its very existence leads to following reality:
The crag that you climb the most, the slope that you ski the most, the mountain that you've been up the most times...these are the most dangerous places that you will ever go.
Non-event feedback takes on a new dimension with group dynamics. A beginner may follow a competent leader up a mountain. The leader may look at the conditions and decide that they're safe. If the leader doesn't go through his entire thinking process, the beginner may then make the assumption that the conditions are always safe.
Avalanche research indicates that the likelihood of skiers tackling a dangerous slope increases dramatically after one person successfully skis the slope first. In other words, once someone sees someone else get away with something, they subconsciously believe that they can get away with it too.
The only way to avoid getting stuck in non-event feedback loops is to constantly question yourself. Is this safe today? Am I just following the leader? And lastly, am I responding to the conditions as they are or as I wish they were?
--Jason D. Martin
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Weekend Warrior -- Videos to Get You Stoked!
The weekend is upon us once again and it is time for us Warriors to get outside and play!
The weather is warm and the snow is melting here in the North Cascades and climbers are migrating into the mountains like the salmon of Capistrano. To help you get stoked we have an eclectic mix of videos for your viewing enjoyment.
The first video we have for you features two power couples of climbing teaming up to create a regular International Dream Team of big-wall alpine ascents. Watch as Americans Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell combine forces with French climbers Arnaud Petit and Stephanie Bodet to climb the incredible Lotus Flower deep in the Yukon Territory...and I mean deep.
The second video of the weekend features some serious alpine climbing, beautiful scenery, and a killer soundtrack to boot. But seriously, I want to download this music to my iPod and listen to it every morning to get pumped up for the day. This montage-esque video documents an expedition to climb the Arwa Tower in the Indian Himalayas, a 900 meter climb that goes at VI M9 5.9 A3...sounds like a good time to me.
The final video may seem a little out of place in this line-up but I assure you that it is worthy to get you stoked! I don't know how many of you are familiar with the glorious Japanese television show called Ninja Warrior but it is basically an obstacle course on steroids. Watch as "The Fireman" makes his way past various challenges in an attempt to become a true Ninja Warrior. Just imagine what this guy could do on a rock face.
The weather is warm and the snow is melting here in the North Cascades and climbers are migrating into the mountains like the salmon of Capistrano. To help you get stoked we have an eclectic mix of videos for your viewing enjoyment.
The first video we have for you features two power couples of climbing teaming up to create a regular International Dream Team of big-wall alpine ascents. Watch as Americans Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell combine forces with French climbers Arnaud Petit and Stephanie Bodet to climb the incredible Lotus Flower deep in the Yukon Territory...and I mean deep.
The second video of the weekend features some serious alpine climbing, beautiful scenery, and a killer soundtrack to boot. But seriously, I want to download this music to my iPod and listen to it every morning to get pumped up for the day. This montage-esque video documents an expedition to climb the Arwa Tower in the Indian Himalayas, a 900 meter climb that goes at VI M9 5.9 A3...sounds like a good time to me.
The final video may seem a little out of place in this line-up but I assure you that it is worthy to get you stoked! I don't know how many of you are familiar with the glorious Japanese television show called Ninja Warrior but it is basically an obstacle course on steroids. Watch as "The Fireman" makes his way past various challenges in an attempt to become a true Ninja Warrior. Just imagine what this guy could do on a rock face.
Friday, July 18, 2008
Top Ten Reasons Why Natasha Caldwell is Awesome
Natasha Caldwell, Program and Outreach Coordinator for AAI, is an incredible person and staff member. Today is her last day at the Institute, and to show her how much we are going to miss her, we put together this list - 'Top Ten Reasons Why Natasha is Awesome.' Although she will be moving on from her position in the office, she will always be a part of the AAI family.
1. She runs marathons.
2. She wants to kidnap Jason's baby.
3. Her hair is larger than her body.
4. She tells it like it is.
5. She's got the finest strut in town.
6. She can dance circles around anyone at Reggae Night - she is by far the best person to go out with on a Wednesday night!
7. Her theme song to life is "Rains down in Africa" by Toto . . . it doesn't get cooler than that
8. Her deep love and appreciation for the color pink
9. She is the most caring and compassionate friend
10. She is now the best person to go visit in Seattle!
Natasha, you are energetic, ambitious, considerate, thoughtful, organized, confident, courageous, kind, loyal, hilarious, and beautiful - We are going to miss you so much!
With Love,
Your AAI Family
1. She runs marathons.
2. She wants to kidnap Jason's baby.
3. Her hair is larger than her body.
4. She tells it like it is.
5. She's got the finest strut in town.
6. She can dance circles around anyone at Reggae Night - she is by far the best person to go out with on a Wednesday night!
7. Her theme song to life is "Rains down in Africa" by Toto . . . it doesn't get cooler than that
8. Her deep love and appreciation for the color pink
9. She is the most caring and compassionate friend
10. She is now the best person to go visit in Seattle!
Natasha, you are energetic, ambitious, considerate, thoughtful, organized, confident, courageous, kind, loyal, hilarious, and beautiful - We are going to miss you so much!
With Love,
Your AAI Family
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- July 17, 2008
NORTHWEST:
--On Wednesday, July 11th, the Mount Rainier speed record was broken. Justin Merle climbed from Paradise to the summit in a record 4 hours, 49 minutes and 35 seconds. To read more, click here and here.
--A number of news agencies are reporting that there may be one or more wolf packs in the Methow Valley near Twisp. Biologists indicate that if this is indeed true, the wolf pack will be the first resident pack of the endangered species in the state since 1930. To read more, click here.
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--The title of the London Daily Telegraph article says it all: Nude Climber Craze Tipped to Take over England. The subtitle is, "battling gravity on a number of levels, these naked climbers are demonstrating a new American craze tipped to take Britain by storm." Somebody apparently didn't do their homework. There clearly isn't a naked climbing craze in the United States. However, a calendar that features black and white images of climbers in the buff entitled Stone Nudes has been around for years.
WARNING: The links in the preceding post show what many people consider to be artistic naked images from the Stone Nudes Calendar. Please don't click on these if you find nudity offensive.
--This week the New York Times reported on an extreme sport in Europe that is growing in popularity. Rock jumping is the art of jumping from one rock tower to another. In many cases the span between such towers is in excess of ten feet. The consequences of missing a jump, even tied in to a rope, may be catastrophic. To read more, click here.
--Two Polish climbers recently completed the second complete traverse of Gasherbrum I (26,509') and Gasherbrum II (26,362'). Piotr Morawski and Slovak Peter Hamor completed their link-up between June 18th and July 6th. This traverse was previously completed in 1984 by Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander. To read more, click here.
--An Italian team comprised of Karl Unterkircher, Walter Nones and Simon Kehrer, completed the second ascent Chongra Peak (22,402') in Pakistan, via a new route on the West Ridge. The team made their alpine style push on July 3rd which marks the first time that such a style was used on the peak. To read more, click here.
--On Wednesday, July 11th, the Mount Rainier speed record was broken. Justin Merle climbed from Paradise to the summit in a record 4 hours, 49 minutes and 35 seconds. To read more, click here and here.
--A number of news agencies are reporting that there may be one or more wolf packs in the Methow Valley near Twisp. Biologists indicate that if this is indeed true, the wolf pack will be the first resident pack of the endangered species in the state since 1930. To read more, click here.
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--The title of the London Daily Telegraph article says it all: Nude Climber Craze Tipped to Take over England. The subtitle is, "battling gravity on a number of levels, these naked climbers are demonstrating a new American craze tipped to take Britain by storm." Somebody apparently didn't do their homework. There clearly isn't a naked climbing craze in the United States. However, a calendar that features black and white images of climbers in the buff entitled Stone Nudes has been around for years.
WARNING: The links in the preceding post show what many people consider to be artistic naked images from the Stone Nudes Calendar. Please don't click on these if you find nudity offensive.
--This week the New York Times reported on an extreme sport in Europe that is growing in popularity. Rock jumping is the art of jumping from one rock tower to another. In many cases the span between such towers is in excess of ten feet. The consequences of missing a jump, even tied in to a rope, may be catastrophic. To read more, click here.
--Two Polish climbers recently completed the second complete traverse of Gasherbrum I (26,509') and Gasherbrum II (26,362'). Piotr Morawski and Slovak Peter Hamor completed their link-up between June 18th and July 6th. This traverse was previously completed in 1984 by Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander. To read more, click here.
--An Italian team comprised of Karl Unterkircher, Walter Nones and Simon Kehrer, completed the second ascent Chongra Peak (22,402') in Pakistan, via a new route on the West Ridge. The team made their alpine style push on July 3rd which marks the first time that such a style was used on the peak. To read more, click here.
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Conditions Report -- July 16, 2008
NORTHWEST:
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--The largest fire to strike the Southern Cascades is still growing. The Cold Springs fire has burned approximately 9 square miles of timber around Mount Adams in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest and on the Yakama Indian Reservation. To read more, click here.
--The Coleman-Deming Glacier continues to be in excellent shape. However, the trail up to the Heliotrope Ridge on the north side of Mount Baker is an absolute mess. The bridge is still out at the trailhead and climbers must use a log just downstream to cross the creek. It is likely that this will be fixed in the next couple of weeks. The trail itself is covered in blowdown. Downed trees, rootwads and other obstacles that are difficult to manage exist from the beginning to the end of the trail. Indeed, there are a number of areas where the damage is so bad that you must actually leave the trail and travel cross-country to avoid the worst of it. These cross-country sections are well-marked by orange flagging tape.
--The North Face of Mount Shuksan is in excellent shape. AAI guide Jeremy Ellison recently climbed the route and found soft snow, but good climbing conditions. He indicated that there was only one short section of terrain that might require two tools.
--The excellent weather this weekend led to many excellent ascents. Climbers made ascents up Forbidden Peak, Dragontail Peak, Mount Shuksan, Mount Buckner, and a one group climbed all the major peaks in the Liberty Bell group.
--It's late in the year for skiing, but there are still a lot of people getting after it. Mount Baker was skied this weekend, so was Mount Hood and Mount Rainier.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--The Denali season is over. Most parties that are still climbing in the area are focused on more obscure objectives. We currently have a party in Little Switzerland on the Pika Glacier.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--The largest fire to strike the Southern Cascades is still growing. The Cold Springs fire has burned approximately 9 square miles of timber around Mount Adams in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest and on the Yakama Indian Reservation. To read more, click here.
--The Coleman-Deming Glacier continues to be in excellent shape. However, the trail up to the Heliotrope Ridge on the north side of Mount Baker is an absolute mess. The bridge is still out at the trailhead and climbers must use a log just downstream to cross the creek. It is likely that this will be fixed in the next couple of weeks. The trail itself is covered in blowdown. Downed trees, rootwads and other obstacles that are difficult to manage exist from the beginning to the end of the trail. Indeed, there are a number of areas where the damage is so bad that you must actually leave the trail and travel cross-country to avoid the worst of it. These cross-country sections are well-marked by orange flagging tape.
--The North Face of Mount Shuksan is in excellent shape. AAI guide Jeremy Ellison recently climbed the route and found soft snow, but good climbing conditions. He indicated that there was only one short section of terrain that might require two tools.
--The excellent weather this weekend led to many excellent ascents. Climbers made ascents up Forbidden Peak, Dragontail Peak, Mount Shuksan, Mount Buckner, and a one group climbed all the major peaks in the Liberty Bell group.
--It's late in the year for skiing, but there are still a lot of people getting after it. Mount Baker was skied this weekend, so was Mount Hood and Mount Rainier.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--The Denali season is over. Most parties that are still climbing in the area are focused on more obscure objectives. We currently have a party in Little Switzerland on the Pika Glacier.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Snow Anchor Options - Part I
Believe it or not, but you can use almost anything for a snow anchor.There is a famous story about a female guide in the Alps who used a lighter as a deadman in the snow. She rappelled a steep couloir with the tiny object as her only protection. A few years ago on an Alpinism 1 course we buried a Powerbar, work hardened the snow, and then proceeded to clip a rope to a cord wrapped around the bar. Four people attached themselves to the rope and then bounced on it. The anchor held...for a few bounces. Eventually it blew out, but the force required to make it do so was tremendous.
While these unusual objects are not recommended, there are objects that we carry that are. A deadman is any buried item that might be used as an anchor point. Deadmen are often generated by commercial pickets and snow flukes. But there are many more options. Skis, trekking poles, packs, stuff-sacks filled with snow, and crampons are all items that we commonly carry that could easily be used as a deadman.To make a deadman with an object that you would like to bury, first dig a T-slot. This is a hole that has been cut in the shape of a T. Second, girth-hitch or clove-hitch a sling around the object. The sling will run out of the body of the T. Place the object in the hole and then fill it in. After the T-slot is completely filled in, you must work-harden the snow on top of it. In other words, it must be packed down until it is completely flat and hard. Once this is complete, the object will have become a deadman anchor.
Another simple -- yet time-consuming -- snow anchor is the snow bollard. These are an excellent choice for an anchor that will be used for a rappel. To make a snow bollard, one must cut a teardrop shaped groove into the snow. One may then lay a rope into the groove and rappel. When bollards are cut correctly, they work better than anything else. When they are cut incorrectly there is a distinct possibility of failure.All of these anchors should be considered suspect until they're tested. In order to test an anchor, back it up first. You may use a second deadman, an ice axe, a picket or a fluke to back-up the initial bollard. The back-up should be loosely linked to the line. Should the rope cut through the base of the bollard, the back-up will stop the anchor from failing completely.
Once the back-up has been established, the biggest individual with the largest pack should be sent down first. If the anchor holds the largest amount of weight available, then it's reasonable to assume that the anchor will continue to hold smaller individuals.
Snow anchors are an integral part of mountain climbing. In "Snow Anchor Options - Part II," we'll discuss more options and ideas for both simple and complex snow anchors.
More Information Online:
--Here is a short video on how to place an ice axe as a deadman. Ignore his use of the cord on the picket.
--Here is a short video on the use of a picket in a vertical placement.
AAI Courses that Cover this Information:
Glacier Skills and Crevasse Rescue
Alpinism I: Intro to Alpinism
Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership: Part I
Sierra Intro to Mountaineering
--Jason D. Martin
July and August Climbing Events
NORTHWEST:
--July 16-20 -- Squamish, BC -- Squamish Mountain Festival
SOUTHWEST:
--July 16 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council Meeting
--August 20 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council Meeting
--August 20 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council Meeting
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--Former AAI Guide and writer Majka Burhardt will be presenting a slide show on her new book, Vertical Ethiopia in Boulder, Greenwich, Boston, New Paltz, San Francisco, and Telluride. For more info, click here.
--July 15 -- NA -- Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition Deadline
--July 27 -- Allgäu Mountains, Germany -- UIAA Global Youth Summit: Hot rocks wild water camp in Germany
--August 6-11 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Outdoor Retailer Show
--August 8-9 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Mammut Bouldering Championship
--August 16-23 -- Bicz Gorges National Park, Romania -- International Youth Climbing Camp
Monday, July 14, 2008
Climbing Commands
One of the most inconsistent things in the entire world of climbing are climbing commands. Climbers commonly hook up for a day of climbing with little knowledge of how to communicate with one another at the crag. It is always important to review your climbing commands with a new partner so that no mistakes are made.
The most common mistakes in a command series tend to come around the word "take." Climbers often use the word in two different ways. Some will say "take" in lieu of the command, "up rope." Whereas others will say "take" to mean "take my weight." A much larger problem arises out of the nature of a word that only has one syllable. "Take" could also be mistaken for the words, "safe" or "slack." Either of these mistakes could have tragic consequences. The result is that we try to teach people not to use the word.
The following sets of commands reflect what AAI guides are teaching in the field.
Toprope Commands:
Climber: On belay?
Belayer: (After checking that everyone's double-backed, that knots are correct and that the belay device is threaded appropriately.) Belay on.
Climber: Climbing.
Belayer: Climb on.
Once the climber reaches the top, the following discourse should take place:
Climber: Tension.
Belayer: (After pulling the stretch out of the rope and locking it off.) Tension on.
Climber: Ready to lower.
Belayer: Lowering.
It's important to close out the commands at the end. People often get lazy about the next set. Once the climber is back on the ground the following commands should take place.
Climber: Belay off.
Belayer: Thank-you. (Then after removing the device from the rope:) Off belay.
The "thank-you" exists in this series to get individuals ready for multi-pitch climbing where the words are used a great deal.
Multi-Pitch Commands:
You'll notice that the words "thank-you" are used heavily throughout this command series. We use to words to acknowledge that an individual heard the last command. For those who don't normally use the words "thank-you" as part of your personal series, I would recommend trying it. A lot of stress melts away on multi-pitch climbs when you know that your partner heard you.
Following are the commands that we teach in a multi-pitch setting:
Climber: On belay?
Belayer: (After checking that everyone's double-backed, that knots are correct and that the belay device is threaded appropriately.) Belay on.
Climber: Climbing.
Belayer: Climb on.
Once the climber has reached the top, built an anchor and tied-in, the following commands should take place:
Climber: Off belay!
Belayer: Thank-you! (The belayer will then take the rope out of his device.) Belay off!
Climber: Thank-you! (The climber will then pull up all the slack.)
Belayer: That's me!
Climber: Thank-you! (The climber will then put the belayer on belay.) Belay on!
Belayer: Thank-you! (The belayer will break down the anchor and then yell just before he is about to climb.) Climbing!
Climber: Climb on!
Ancillary Commands:
These are commands that are not necessarily said on every single climb. These are only said if there is a need. The commands are as follows:
Rock -- This should be yelled whenever anything falls. If you hear this, press your body against the wall and do not look up. Your helmet will provide some protection. Unfortunately, sometimes people yell "stick" or "camera." Such unusual commands often result in inappropriate reactions. In other words a person may not immediately attempt to get out of the way.
Watch me -- Climber will say this to a belayer if he is nervous and thinks he might fall.
Falling -- The appropriate command if you actually fall.
Up rope -- When a climber says this, he is asking that slack be eliminated from the system.
Slack -- The climber needs slack.
Tension -- Anytime a climber wants to sit back on the rope and rest they should use this command.
Clipping -- Periodically a leader will need more rope to clip a piece of protection. When a leader says this he's actually asking for a few feet of slack.
--Jason D. Martin
The most common mistakes in a command series tend to come around the word "take." Climbers often use the word in two different ways. Some will say "take" in lieu of the command, "up rope." Whereas others will say "take" to mean "take my weight." A much larger problem arises out of the nature of a word that only has one syllable. "Take" could also be mistaken for the words, "safe" or "slack." Either of these mistakes could have tragic consequences. The result is that we try to teach people not to use the word.
The following sets of commands reflect what AAI guides are teaching in the field.
Toprope Commands:
Climber: On belay?
Belayer: (After checking that everyone's double-backed, that knots are correct and that the belay device is threaded appropriately.) Belay on.
Climber: Climbing.
Belayer: Climb on.
Once the climber reaches the top, the following discourse should take place:
Climber: Tension.
Belayer: (After pulling the stretch out of the rope and locking it off.) Tension on.
Climber: Ready to lower.
Belayer: Lowering.
It's important to close out the commands at the end. People often get lazy about the next set. Once the climber is back on the ground the following commands should take place.
Climber: Belay off.
Belayer: Thank-you. (Then after removing the device from the rope:) Off belay.
The "thank-you" exists in this series to get individuals ready for multi-pitch climbing where the words are used a great deal.
Multi-Pitch Commands:
You'll notice that the words "thank-you" are used heavily throughout this command series. We use to words to acknowledge that an individual heard the last command. For those who don't normally use the words "thank-you" as part of your personal series, I would recommend trying it. A lot of stress melts away on multi-pitch climbs when you know that your partner heard you.
Following are the commands that we teach in a multi-pitch setting:
Climber: On belay?
Belayer: (After checking that everyone's double-backed, that knots are correct and that the belay device is threaded appropriately.) Belay on.
Climber: Climbing.
Belayer: Climb on.
Once the climber has reached the top, built an anchor and tied-in, the following commands should take place:
Climber: Off belay!
Belayer: Thank-you! (The belayer will then take the rope out of his device.) Belay off!
Climber: Thank-you! (The climber will then pull up all the slack.)
Belayer: That's me!
Climber: Thank-you! (The climber will then put the belayer on belay.) Belay on!
Belayer: Thank-you! (The belayer will break down the anchor and then yell just before he is about to climb.) Climbing!
Climber: Climb on!
Ancillary Commands:
These are commands that are not necessarily said on every single climb. These are only said if there is a need. The commands are as follows:
Rock -- This should be yelled whenever anything falls. If you hear this, press your body against the wall and do not look up. Your helmet will provide some protection. Unfortunately, sometimes people yell "stick" or "camera." Such unusual commands often result in inappropriate reactions. In other words a person may not immediately attempt to get out of the way.
Watch me -- Climber will say this to a belayer if he is nervous and thinks he might fall.
Falling -- The appropriate command if you actually fall.
Up rope -- When a climber says this, he is asking that slack be eliminated from the system.
Slack -- The climber needs slack.
Tension -- Anytime a climber wants to sit back on the rope and rest they should use this command.
Clipping -- Periodically a leader will need more rope to clip a piece of protection. When a leader says this he's actually asking for a few feet of slack.
--Jason D. Martin
Saturday, July 12, 2008
Weekend Warrior -- Videos to Get You Stoked!
Hola Weekend Warriors!
I hope all of you made it through the work week without too many bumps and bruises. We are now in the heart of summer in the Cascades and I have been tortured by the beautiful weather right outside my office window. I imagine many of you are experiencing a similar torment. In the spirit of this hot weather we are having I thought it might be nice to cool things down a little with some refreshing, ice cold videos.
The first video we have for you this weekend is from Robert Rogoz, who happens to be a former AAI shop employee. He sent us this trailer of a new movie called "Painted Blue". This sneak-peak features some great ice climbing footage and the movie looks to deliver some truly breathtaking ascents.
Have you ever jumped into a glacier fed lake? There is the initial shock that takes your breath away, followed by the frantic splashing and paddling to get back to shore. Afterwards however, you feel incredibly refreshed, as long as you're not in a blizzard of course. This is what I feel like after I watch our second video, which features a speed riding descent of the Eiger. Those crazy Europeans must have gotten tired of hiking down mountains and decided to fly down instead.
For the final video of the week we have a special treat for all you Weekend Warriors. This video, "Three on a Rope", is straight out of the archives and features some very interesting and painful old-school climbing techniques. Watch this hilarious historical documentation of the early days of rock climbing and be thankful of all the new climbing techniques we now enjoy today.
I hope all of you made it through the work week without too many bumps and bruises. We are now in the heart of summer in the Cascades and I have been tortured by the beautiful weather right outside my office window. I imagine many of you are experiencing a similar torment. In the spirit of this hot weather we are having I thought it might be nice to cool things down a little with some refreshing, ice cold videos.
The first video we have for you this weekend is from Robert Rogoz, who happens to be a former AAI shop employee. He sent us this trailer of a new movie called "Painted Blue". This sneak-peak features some great ice climbing footage and the movie looks to deliver some truly breathtaking ascents.
Have you ever jumped into a glacier fed lake? There is the initial shock that takes your breath away, followed by the frantic splashing and paddling to get back to shore. Afterwards however, you feel incredibly refreshed, as long as you're not in a blizzard of course. This is what I feel like after I watch our second video, which features a speed riding descent of the Eiger. Those crazy Europeans must have gotten tired of hiking down mountains and decided to fly down instead.
For the final video of the week we have a special treat for all you Weekend Warriors. This video, "Three on a Rope", is straight out of the archives and features some very interesting and painful old-school climbing techniques. Watch this hilarious historical documentation of the early days of rock climbing and be thankful of all the new climbing techniques we now enjoy today.
Friday, July 11, 2008
AAI 'Staff Climbing Day' at Mt. Erie
With summer season in full swing, and AAI guides and climbers coming in and out of the office on their way to enjoy the beautiful North Cascades, we office folk were starting to feel a little antsy about sitting inside for another sunny day in Bellingham.
So we declared yesterday a Staff Climbing Day at Mt. Erie. In the afternoon, after wistfully looking out the windows for half the day, we grabbed one of the vans, some gear and ropes, and drove south. There is really nothing better than a Thursday at Mt. Erie in the early evening light.
We had a great night - we climbed hard and laughed a lot. Here are a few photos and team shots:
So we declared yesterday a Staff Climbing Day at Mt. Erie. In the afternoon, after wistfully looking out the windows for half the day, we grabbed one of the vans, some gear and ropes, and drove south. There is really nothing better than a Thursday at Mt. Erie in the early evening light.
We had a great night - we climbed hard and laughed a lot. Here are a few photos and team shots:
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- July 10, 2008
NORTHWEST:
--On July 6th a climber fell in the Devil's Kitchen area of Mount Hood. After sustaining the 100 foot fall an Army National Guard helicopter was notified. The climber was then airlifted off the mountain. To read more, click here.
--To read about another rescue over the Fourth of July weekend on Mount Olympus, click here.
--Despite massive glacial recession all over the world, there is one Cascade volcano that is showing signs of glacier growth. It appears that seven glaciers on Mount Shasta are actually benefiting from climate change. As the Pacific Ocean warms, more precipitation is making its way inland to the mountain. More precipitation means more snow. There is enough snow on the mountain that it is able to sustain the glaciers even though the average temperature has risen 1.8 degrees Fahrenheit over the last century. To read more, click here.
--A moose in Wenatchee seems to be having a hard time finding his way back to his home. The animal found its way through a grocery store parking lot, to a mall and then finally out onto a main street. To read more about this wayward animal, click here.
SIERRA and RED ROCK CANYON:
--Forty-four year-old hiker, Ric DeVan went missing near Mount Goode and Bishop Pass on July 4th. Search and Rescue has had little success locating the man since he disappeared on Friday. They are currently interviewing people who were hiking in the area when the DeVan disappeared. To learn more, click here.
--On June 9th a wild land fire occurred in the Oak Creek area of the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. There were no lightning strikes in the area and a campsite with a fire ring was the suspected source. The fire was quickly surrounded and 100 percent contained. Unlike recent fires that have had a serious impact on the base of popular walls, this fire appears to primarily have impacted the approach trail to the canyon.
ALASKA:
--The American Alpine Insitute has completed an extremely successful Denali season. Members from every team summitted. Everybody is now off the mountain and back home. To read more about our successful season, click here.
--There were two fatalities on Denali this week. On July 4th, 51 year-old Jame Nasti collapsed on the summit of Denali and died. Members of Nasti's team performed CPR on him for forty-five minutes but he did not regain a pulse. To read more about this unfortunate incident, click here. On July 7th, 20 year-old Pungkas Tri Baruno collapsed near the 17,000 foot camp. Members of his team also attempted to revive him with CPR, but were unsuccessful. To read more about this second incident, click here.
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--Separatists Kurdish rebels kidnapped three German climbers yesterday on Mount Ararat (16,853 feet) in eastern Turkey. Five rebels came into the group's camp at 9,600 feet and took the mountaineers hostage to protest the German government's crackdown on a related group in Germany. To read more, click here.
--A high altitude 5.13 was recently added to the 12,000 foot P Wall in Colorado's Front Range. Bob Pizem put up the two pitch trad route on July 2nd. The crux of the climb is a 170 foot corner that required sustained stemming without much oxygen. To read more about the climb, click here.
--It appears that the New York Times building should be added to New York State climbing guidebooks. The skyscraper was scaled yesterday for the third time in five weeks. Twenty-nine year-old protester David Malone climbed up to the fifth story of the building and unfurled a banner. At this point it is not clear what the banner said. To read more about this not-so-ground-breaking-third-ascent, click here.
--On July 6th a climber fell in the Devil's Kitchen area of Mount Hood. After sustaining the 100 foot fall an Army National Guard helicopter was notified. The climber was then airlifted off the mountain. To read more, click here.
--To read about another rescue over the Fourth of July weekend on Mount Olympus, click here.
--Despite massive glacial recession all over the world, there is one Cascade volcano that is showing signs of glacier growth. It appears that seven glaciers on Mount Shasta are actually benefiting from climate change. As the Pacific Ocean warms, more precipitation is making its way inland to the mountain. More precipitation means more snow. There is enough snow on the mountain that it is able to sustain the glaciers even though the average temperature has risen 1.8 degrees Fahrenheit over the last century. To read more, click here.
--A moose in Wenatchee seems to be having a hard time finding his way back to his home. The animal found its way through a grocery store parking lot, to a mall and then finally out onto a main street. To read more about this wayward animal, click here.
SIERRA and RED ROCK CANYON:
--Forty-four year-old hiker, Ric DeVan went missing near Mount Goode and Bishop Pass on July 4th. Search and Rescue has had little success locating the man since he disappeared on Friday. They are currently interviewing people who were hiking in the area when the DeVan disappeared. To learn more, click here.
--On June 9th a wild land fire occurred in the Oak Creek area of the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. There were no lightning strikes in the area and a campsite with a fire ring was the suspected source. The fire was quickly surrounded and 100 percent contained. Unlike recent fires that have had a serious impact on the base of popular walls, this fire appears to primarily have impacted the approach trail to the canyon.
ALASKA:
--The American Alpine Insitute has completed an extremely successful Denali season. Members from every team summitted. Everybody is now off the mountain and back home. To read more about our successful season, click here.
--There were two fatalities on Denali this week. On July 4th, 51 year-old Jame Nasti collapsed on the summit of Denali and died. Members of Nasti's team performed CPR on him for forty-five minutes but he did not regain a pulse. To read more about this unfortunate incident, click here. On July 7th, 20 year-old Pungkas Tri Baruno collapsed near the 17,000 foot camp. Members of his team also attempted to revive him with CPR, but were unsuccessful. To read more about this second incident, click here.
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--Separatists Kurdish rebels kidnapped three German climbers yesterday on Mount Ararat (16,853 feet) in eastern Turkey. Five rebels came into the group's camp at 9,600 feet and took the mountaineers hostage to protest the German government's crackdown on a related group in Germany. To read more, click here.
--A high altitude 5.13 was recently added to the 12,000 foot P Wall in Colorado's Front Range. Bob Pizem put up the two pitch trad route on July 2nd. The crux of the climb is a 170 foot corner that required sustained stemming without much oxygen. To read more about the climb, click here.
--It appears that the New York Times building should be added to New York State climbing guidebooks. The skyscraper was scaled yesterday for the third time in five weeks. Twenty-nine year-old protester David Malone climbed up to the fifth story of the building and unfurled a banner. At this point it is not clear what the banner said. To read more about this not-so-ground-breaking-third-ascent, click here.
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
Limited Space Available in Glacier Skills and Crevasse Rescue courses!
AAI has limited space available in the three remaining crevasse rescue courses offered this season on Mt. Baker. Please sign up now or call us at 360-671-1505 if you wish to reserve a spot on one of these trips!This course is also a great review for climbers that haven't been on a glaciated peak recently - it is very important to practice these skills in order not to lose them.
Our Glacier Skills and Crevasse Rescue course is a three-day introduction and comprehensive review of glacier travel, mountain weather, ice axe and crampon use, rope work, snow anchors, self arrest, crevasse rescue, and the specifics of self-rescue and prussiking.
Remaining 2008 Course Dates
July 18-20
Aug 9-11
Aug 30 - Sep 1
Conditions Report - July 9, 2008
NORTHWEST:
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--The popular climbing area known to some as Deception Crags and to others as Exit 38 has at least one peregrine falcon nest. It is currently not clear exactly where this nest is. It is important for climbers to avoid such nests as disturbing them may lead to the closure of a crag.
--Though the weather wasn't perfect over the holiday weekend, a few parties still got out. A party climbed Bonanza Peak, a party attempted Mount Olympus, and a party attempted Rainier.
--Some skiers got out there too! The steep north face of Mount Maude was skied. Mount Hood was skied. And so was Mount Adams.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--The Denali season is coming to a close. Most parties that are still climbing in the area are focused on more obscure objectives. We currently have a party in Little Switzerland on the Pika Glacier.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--AAI Guide Paul Ivaska indicates that the Mountaineers Route on Mount Whitney is now quite sun-cupped. Most parties are using the rocks to the side of the gully proper to avoid the worst of this.
RED ROCK CANYON:
--A fire recently burned a small portion of the trail at the entrance to Oak Creek Canyon. Authorities believe that the fire was not natural and may have been the result of a poorly doused campfire. Crews were able to quickly suppress the 1.5 acre fire.
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--The popular climbing area known to some as Deception Crags and to others as Exit 38 has at least one peregrine falcon nest. It is currently not clear exactly where this nest is. It is important for climbers to avoid such nests as disturbing them may lead to the closure of a crag.
--Though the weather wasn't perfect over the holiday weekend, a few parties still got out. A party climbed Bonanza Peak, a party attempted Mount Olympus, and a party attempted Rainier.
--Some skiers got out there too! The steep north face of Mount Maude was skied. Mount Hood was skied. And so was Mount Adams.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--The Denali season is coming to a close. Most parties that are still climbing in the area are focused on more obscure objectives. We currently have a party in Little Switzerland on the Pika Glacier.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--AAI Guide Paul Ivaska indicates that the Mountaineers Route on Mount Whitney is now quite sun-cupped. Most parties are using the rocks to the side of the gully proper to avoid the worst of this.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
--A fire recently burned a small portion of the trail at the entrance to Oak Creek Canyon. Authorities believe that the fire was not natural and may have been the result of a poorly doused campfire. Crews were able to quickly suppress the 1.5 acre fire.
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
July and August Climbing Events
NORTHWEST:
--July 9-12 -- Mount Rainier, WA -- Climb to Conquer SADS
--July 16-20 -- Squamish, BC -- Squamish Mountain Festival
SOUTHWEST:
--July 16 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council Meeting
--August 20 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council Meeting
--August 20 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council Meeting
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--Former AAI Guide and writer Majka Burhardt will be presenting a slide show on her new book, Vertical Ethiopia in Boulder, Greenwich, Boston, New Paltz, San Francisco, and Telluride. For more info, click here.
--July 9-13 -- Lander, WY -- International Climber's Festival
--July 15 -- NA -- Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition Deadline
--July 27 -- Allgäu Mountains, Germany -- UIAA Global Youth Summit: Hot rocks wild water camp in Germany
--August 8-9 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Mammut Bouldering Championship
--August 16-23 -- Bicz Gorges National Park, Romania -- International Youth Climbing Camp
Aggressive Bear Shot in Denali National Park
We recently received the following email from Denali National Park. Most bears are not aggressive and if treated warily and with respect will not attack human beings.
- Denali National Park and Preserve personnel shot an aggressive black bear in a remote section of the Denali National Park additions on the night of July 4, 2008. The black bear had threatened the life and safety of three park employees in an area along the McKinley River approximately 20 miles northwest of Wonder Lake.
- A research team consisting of three seasonal NPS biological technicians was conducting a botany field study along the remote river bar when a sub-adult black bear approached their field camp at 11:15 p.m. on July 4. The team responded with aversive action including yelling, arm-waving, and throwing objects at the bear. After initially being chased off into dense brush, the bear circled back to the camp three or four times, and at one point, the animal clawed and destroyed one of the team’s tents. On its final approach to the camp, the black bear aggressively charged the three researchers, hissing and pouncing at the ground. An attempt to divert the bear with pepper spray was ineffective.
- In accordance with policy set forth in the park’s Bear-Human Conflict Management Plan, one of the researchers made the decision to shoot the bear when it charged within 20 feet of the team and posed immediate hazard to human safety. The employee, who was qualified and authorized by the National Park Service to carry and use firearms in the park, hit the bear in its mid-section with a 12-gauge shotgun slug. Despite considerable blood loss, the wounded bear moved into dense vegetation and out of view.
- The three employees immediately notified Denali’s Communication Center via park radio. The following morning, the park wildlife biologist, along with two Law Enforcement rangers and one backcountry ranger, were flown to the camp in a park helicopter to investigate the situation and take further action if necessary. The group tracked the blood trail for 200 meters, but thereafter they were unable to locate the wounded bear in the dense brush. Both the helicopter and a fixed wing aircraft searched from the air, but spotters were similarly unable to locate the bear.
- In light of the remoteness of the incident and the amount of blood loss to the bear, park officials consider there to be little, if any, ongoing hazard to human life. Park management has issued a backcountry closure for the area in question, a remote unit that sees very limited visitor activity. Further investigation into the incident is ongoing.
Climbing Class and Grade
One of the most confusing elements for a new climber is how the climbing class and grade systems work in the United States. Many individuals go to the rock gym and feel like they understand what a 5.7 feels like, but seldom understand where that grade came from. Many wonder why it's not simply a 2 or a 3 instead of a 5.7.
In North America we use the Yosemite Decimal System to define the class of a climb. This system provides a class number and then a specific grade. Following is a breakdown of the classes:
Class 1 - Hiking on a maintained trail.
Class 2 - Easy scrambling. Some may occasionally need their hands.Class 3 - Moderate scrambling. Hands may be employed more often.
Class 4 - Easy climbing. Hands are used all the time. Many will climb at this level without a rope.
Class 5 - Where real rock climbing begins. Technical equipment is employed at this level.
At Class 5 we add a decimal and a number to the system. Periodically a plus or a minus will be used in conjunction with the class identification (i.e. 5.6+ or 5.8-). Once the system hits 5.10, a letter grade is added. There are four letter grades before the number grade changes. (i.e. 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10d, 5.11a, 511b...). Following is a breakdown of this system;
5.0-5.6 - Beginner level climber
5.7-5.9 - Intermediate level climber
5.10a-5.11c - Advanced level climber
5.11d-5.13d - Professional climber
5.14a-5.15b - World class climber
Currently 5.15b is the hardest grade climbed in the world. However, the system is open-ended and one day somebody will climb something that is 5.15c.
Though climbers strive for consistency in grades, this breakdown is often quite subjective. In other words, a 5.10a in Red Rock Canyon might be the equivalent of a 5.8 in Joshua Tree National Park. It's important for climbers to get a feel for how the grades work in every new area they visit before pushing themselves too hard.
Many long rock and alpine climbs also employ a Roman Numeral commitment grade. This grade gives the "average climber" an overview of how long the route will take, how many pitches are technical, how difficult the routefinding on the route might be, and in some cases it will also take into account the remoteness of the climb. The commitment grades are as follows:
Grade I - A very short route requiring one to two hours.
Grade II - A route that takes two to four hours.
Grade III - A route that takes the better part of a day. For slower parties a Grade III will be an all day endeavor.
Grade IV - A route that takes all day. Generally a day that requires in excess of 12 hours. The technical difficulties are more pronounced.
Grade V - Generally takes more that a day. There are clear technical difficulties to be overcome.
Grade VI - A multi-day climb that requires solid technical skills and often requires both aid and free climbing techniques.
As with the Yosemite Decimal System, the commitment grade system is not without problems. It is incredibly subjective. The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite is a Grade VI. When it was first climbed in 1958, it took 45 days. Last week, the speed record was set at 2 hours and 43 minutes. So the question must then be asked, what is an "average" climber? How should these grades be set? Most guidebook authors will look for some kind of consensus. The real average party on the Nose still takes about four days. As such, the Grade VI will remain for the time being.
--Jason D. Martin
In North America we use the Yosemite Decimal System to define the class of a climb. This system provides a class number and then a specific grade. Following is a breakdown of the classes:
Class 1 - Hiking on a maintained trail.
Class 2 - Easy scrambling. Some may occasionally need their hands.Class 3 - Moderate scrambling. Hands may be employed more often.
Class 4 - Easy climbing. Hands are used all the time. Many will climb at this level without a rope.
Class 5 - Where real rock climbing begins. Technical equipment is employed at this level.
At Class 5 we add a decimal and a number to the system. Periodically a plus or a minus will be used in conjunction with the class identification (i.e. 5.6+ or 5.8-). Once the system hits 5.10, a letter grade is added. There are four letter grades before the number grade changes. (i.e. 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10d, 5.11a, 511b...). Following is a breakdown of this system;
5.0-5.6 - Beginner level climber
5.7-5.9 - Intermediate level climber
5.10a-5.11c - Advanced level climber
5.11d-5.13d - Professional climber
5.14a-5.15b - World class climber
Currently 5.15b is the hardest grade climbed in the world. However, the system is open-ended and one day somebody will climb something that is 5.15c.
Though climbers strive for consistency in grades, this breakdown is often quite subjective. In other words, a 5.10a in Red Rock Canyon might be the equivalent of a 5.8 in Joshua Tree National Park. It's important for climbers to get a feel for how the grades work in every new area they visit before pushing themselves too hard.
Many long rock and alpine climbs also employ a Roman Numeral commitment grade. This grade gives the "average climber" an overview of how long the route will take, how many pitches are technical, how difficult the routefinding on the route might be, and in some cases it will also take into account the remoteness of the climb. The commitment grades are as follows:
Grade I - A very short route requiring one to two hours.
Grade II - A route that takes two to four hours.
Grade III - A route that takes the better part of a day. For slower parties a Grade III will be an all day endeavor.
Grade IV - A route that takes all day. Generally a day that requires in excess of 12 hours. The technical difficulties are more pronounced.
Grade V - Generally takes more that a day. There are clear technical difficulties to be overcome.
Grade VI - A multi-day climb that requires solid technical skills and often requires both aid and free climbing techniques.
As with the Yosemite Decimal System, the commitment grade system is not without problems. It is incredibly subjective. The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite is a Grade VI. When it was first climbed in 1958, it took 45 days. Last week, the speed record was set at 2 hours and 43 minutes. So the question must then be asked, what is an "average" climber? How should these grades be set? Most guidebook authors will look for some kind of consensus. The real average party on the Nose still takes about four days. As such, the Grade VI will remain for the time being.
--Jason D. Martin
Monday, July 7, 2008
Crevasse Rescue Review
The following crevasse rescue description is based on the course work provided by American Alpine Institute field guides. This systematic description will make the most sense to those students who have worked with AAI in the field on crevasse rescue systems.
This two person crevasse rescue description is broken into three parts. The first part is entitled Anchor; the second, Z-Pulley and the third, C on Z. Most students obtain the best results when they think of this as a dynamic three part system. Students have problems and get lost when they lose sight of their objective. Any time one gets lost while working through the system they should step back and think clearly about what they are trying to do in that part of the rescue.
Anchor
The photo to the left shows a completed anchor. The red carabiner is the master carabiner. Note that there are two pieces of gear. The first piece placed was a snow fluke. The back-up piece was a picket buried in a t-slot. The blue carabiner is the backup line.
This photo shows a completed Z-Pulley anchor. There will be one more step for the rescuer in this picture. He will have to release the figure-eight knot from the blue locking carabiner before the rescue can continue. The blue locking carabiner should stay in place for later use.
This photo shows a completed Z-Pulley system. The rescuer need only to pull on the "haul line" in order to get his partner out of the crevasse.
This photo shows a climber hauling her partner out of a crevasse with a completed 6:1 pulley system. We often refer to this as a C-Z Pulley system.
Other Considerations
This two person crevasse rescue description is broken into three parts. The first part is entitled Anchor; the second, Z-Pulley and the third, C on Z. Most students obtain the best results when they think of this as a dynamic three part system. Students have problems and get lost when they lose sight of their objective. Any time one gets lost while working through the system they should step back and think clearly about what they are trying to do in that part of the rescue.
Anchor
- Self-arrest and place your foot over the rope. Be sure to kick your feet in firmly to hold the weight.
- Place a piece of snow or ice protection and attach it to a locking carabiner. This locking carabiner will thus be designated the "master carabiner." This first piece of snow protection must be extremely good. If it is not, both the victim and the rescuer will be in serious danger.
- Attach your foot prussiks to the master carabiner. Lock the carabiner and NEVER OPEN THE MASTER CARABINER AGAIN!
- Keeping your ice-axe handy, slowly allow the victim's body to weight the anchor. Be sure to keep your ice-axe within reach until the anchor is complete. If that first piece of protection blows out, you will need to arrest again.
- Take the rescue coils off of your shoulder and slowly unwrap them. Be sure not to panic as the mountaineers coil is easily tangled.
- Estimate the distance up to the master carabiner, then estimate the distance from the carabiner to the crevasse. Add these two figures together and then tie a figure-eight knot in the rope at this length. If there is a large amount of crevasse danger in the area, you may have to tie this knot significantly closer to yourself in order to protect yourself.
- Clear one of the two locking carabiners that you are tied into the rope with of all items. Clip the new figure-eight knot into this carabiner. Clear the second carabiner of everything. Leave your waist prussik on the rope.
- Work your way up to the master carabiner. Tie a figure-eight knot into the rope that is being held by your foot prussik. Using a locking carabiner, clip this into the master carabiner and lock it. This will back-up the prussik which is currently holding the victim's weight.
- Step nine is where you will back-up the first piece of protection. It is important not to disturb this piece of protection while placing the second piece or all will be lost. Measure the distance from the master carabiner to your second placement. Be sure that when you place the second piece, you consider the length of the sling or cordellete with the carabiners on them. You want this second piece to be as equalized as possible. Beginner level students will stretch a sling as tightly as possible from the master carabiner to the second piece, where advanced students may use the block and tackle with a cordellete. Once you complete this, the Anchor is finished.
- Take your pack-prussik or a shoulder-length sling and girth-hitch it to your waist prussik which is still on the tensioned rope. If you are wearing crampons, be very careful not to step on the rope. Clip this extension to the unused locking carabiner at the tie-in point on your harness.
- Work your way toward the crevasse while probing for additional crevasses with your ice-axe. You may have to re-tie your safety knot to reach the crevasse. Re-tie this knot whenever it is necessary.
- Once you reach the lip, confirm that your partner is conscious and needs to be pulled out of the crevasse. If he or she does not answer, you will have to rappel down into the crevasse to see what is wrong. To climb back out of the crevasse it is possible to use your partner's prussik cords. Pad and clear the lip before rappelling.
- If your partner answers and says that he or she needs to be pulled out, clear the lip of all snow. Warn your partner before you start to kick snow down on top of them. The entire rope should be visible at the lip of the crevasse before you are finished.
- Slide your ice-axe under the rope at the lip in order to pad it. Place the pick into the snow in order to secure it. Clip the axe to the rope so that it does not fall down into the hole.
- Unclip the extension attached to your harness. Take the pack prussik off of your waist prussik. You should still be relatively close to the lip of the crevasse when this takes place.
- Clip a pulley to the waist prussik. Run the rope coming from the master carabiner through this pulley. The waist prussik may also be reffered to as the "tractor."
- Walk back up to the master carabiner. Clip a second pulley into the master carabiner and run the rope that is clipped to the locking carabiner on the master carabiner through the pulley. It doesn't matter which side of the knot you attach the pulley too.
- Untie the knot next to the pulley, but leave the locking carabiner attached to the master carabiner.
- Pull on the line that you are tied too. Haul the vicitm up approximately a foot.
- Untie the knot between the pulley attached to the master carabiner and the foot prussik. The foot prussik may be reffered to as the "ratchet."
- You may now haul the victim on a 3:1 system. Remeber to mind the foot prussik (ratchet) while hauling, and be aware that for every three feet you pull, the victim will only rise one foot. You have now completed the Z-Pulley.
- "To add the C, I must tie the end of the rope into the anchor!" This is usually chanted during some guides trainings for a reason. If you remember this, the rest will make more sense. Tie a figure-eight knot into the end of the rope and clip it into the locking carabiner that is still attached to the master carabiner.
- Tie a knot next to the pulley nearest the crevasse lip and clip a carabiner into it. This knot may be a clove-hitch or a figure-eight. Advanced students may place the pack prussik on the haul line here with a non-locker clipped to it. This carabiner may also have an additional pulley on it if you have one.
- Clip the line that you just clipped into the locking carabiner into the new carabiner down by the pulley nearest the lip. This is your new haul line.
- You now have a 6:1 hauling system. It is important to realize that you must haul six feet for every foot that the victim rises. You have completed the C-Z Pulley system.
The photo to the left shows a completed anchor. The red carabiner is the master carabiner. Note that there are two pieces of gear. The first piece placed was a snow fluke. The back-up piece was a picket buried in a t-slot. The blue carabiner is the backup line.
This photo shows a completed Z-Pulley anchor. There will be one more step for the rescuer in this picture. He will have to release the figure-eight knot from the blue locking carabiner before the rescue can continue. The blue locking carabiner should stay in place for later use.
This photo shows a completed Z-Pulley system. The rescuer need only to pull on the "haul line" in order to get his partner out of the crevasse.
This photo shows a climber hauling her partner out of a crevasse with a completed 6:1 pulley system. We often refer to this as a C-Z Pulley system.Other Considerations
- Always pull away from the crevasse.
- If the victim suddenly becomes more difficult to pull-out check the victim. Do not crush the victim in the lip of the crevasse.
- Make sure the victim keeps his hands from behind the rope as it cuts through the lip.
- Lock all carabiners. You only need two locking carabiners aside from the two on your harness to complete this rescue.
- If you can haul the person out on a 3:1, then do it. It will be faster.
- Once you understand the system, experiment with short-cuts. Do not experiment until you have a concrete understanding of the whole system.
Saturday, July 5, 2008
All Eight Denali Teams Summit!
Congratulations to all the AAI Denali expeditions this season! Each of the 8 teams summited successfully. Below are photos from various groups throughout the season - if you have any more you would like posted, just email us at info@aai.cc. If you would like to read dispatches from these trips, just click here.
Photo by Tom Betor
Photo by Tony Newton
Photo by Tony Newton
Photo by Alasdair Turner
Photo by Alasdair Turner
Photo by Coley Gentzel
Photo by Coley Gentzel
Photo by Coley Gentzel
Photo by Dylan Taylor
Photo by Dylan Taylor
Photo by Dylan Taylor
Weekend Warrior -- Videos to Get You Stoked!
Hey all you Weekend Warriors!
I hope that everyone still has all their fingers left after yet another 4th of July celebration. In case you didn't see enough fireworks yesterday we have some explosive videos for all of you to enjoy. These movies are sure to get you pumped for this weekend!
Imagine the craziest fireworks display you have ever seen in your entire life. Now imagine that this display was somehow transformed into a person. You have just created Tom Eric Heimen. Watch as this Norwegian soars through the air mere feet from the cliffs below. My heart was beating so fast after watching this that I thought a Roman Candle had just been shot at my face.
The second video in our line-up should calm you down a little if you watched our first one. It features some truly breathtaking alpine scenery in Nepal. Watch as Fredrik Ericsson attempts to do a ski descent of Dhaulagiri, or White Mountain, the seventh highest peak in the world. This guy brings a whole new meaning to earning your turns.
I know that all you weekend warriors have a variety of outdoor pursuits and this third video captures many of them at once. This particular video features more variety than that old bag of leftover fireworks I have stored in my closet from last year. You will be amazed as you watch 6 different mountain sports come together for one incredible photograph.
I hope that everyone still has all their fingers left after yet another 4th of July celebration. In case you didn't see enough fireworks yesterday we have some explosive videos for all of you to enjoy. These movies are sure to get you pumped for this weekend!
Imagine the craziest fireworks display you have ever seen in your entire life. Now imagine that this display was somehow transformed into a person. You have just created Tom Eric Heimen. Watch as this Norwegian soars through the air mere feet from the cliffs below. My heart was beating so fast after watching this that I thought a Roman Candle had just been shot at my face.
The second video in our line-up should calm you down a little if you watched our first one. It features some truly breathtaking alpine scenery in Nepal. Watch as Fredrik Ericsson attempts to do a ski descent of Dhaulagiri, or White Mountain, the seventh highest peak in the world. This guy brings a whole new meaning to earning your turns.
I know that all you weekend warriors have a variety of outdoor pursuits and this third video captures many of them at once. This particular video features more variety than that old bag of leftover fireworks I have stored in my closet from last year. You will be amazed as you watch 6 different mountain sports come together for one incredible photograph.
Friday, July 4, 2008
Get to Know Your Guide: An interview with Paul Ivaska
Every week, we take the reader into the interesting and ever-changing life of an American Alpine Institute guide. Every AAI guide is very experienced in alpine and rock climbing, and all have received professional training in advanced guiding techniques and rescue. Collectively they have one of the highest levels of wilderness first aid, avalanche, and Leave No Trace training among the world's international guide services.
This week, we interview Paul Ivaska.
Age: 38
Hometown: Monroe, Connecticut
Recent trips and expeditions with AAI: Denali (West Buttress), Temple Crag (Venusian Blind), North
Palisade (U-Notch Couloir)
Upcoming courses with AAI: Mt. Whitney (East Buttress)
A Guide’s Life
How old were you when you first started climbing?
22 years old. I was attending an Army Medic training course in Ft. Sam Houston, TX. My roommate had experience climbing in the Dolomites of Northern Italy. He invited me out to do some climbing in the hill country north of San Antonio. I was immediately hooked!
How do you stay in shape, and what are your favorite training activities?
Guiding and Ski Patrolling keep me in shape.
Who is the most inspiring person in your climbing life?
My friend Mike Storeim from Colorado. He grew up climbing in Eldorado Canyon and the South Platte region in the 70's (a time when climbers had so little as far as equipment goes, but did so much as far as pushing the traditional climbing standard). I learned a lot from him and enjoyed many a great climb with him.
What are your other interests besides climbing?
Skiing and guiding.
Where is your favorite place to travel?
As each year goes by, I find myself enjoying more mountain ranges in North America. My favorite ranges are those with the beautiful combination of huge granite walls and glaciers. I would like to one day go climb alpine walls in Pakistan and Patagonia. I also enjoy climbing in the Utah desert.
On the Technical Side
Describe your climbing style.
I enjoy long alpine rock routes the most.
What has been your most technically difficult climb?
The route Oz in Tuolumne Meadows. It was sustained in its difficulties and very aesthetic. I have done two climbing routes that where put up by Dale Bard in the Sierra and found them both awesome in setting and difficulty.
What is your biggest strength as a climber? Biggest weakness?
Strength: I don't let long arduous approaches deter me from climbing interesting routes. Weakness: I sometimes have a hard time leaving the coffee shop to go climb :)
A Guide on Guiding
Is there anything you know now that you'd wish you'd known when you were just beginning to climb?
Trying to make a living climbing is difficult, but the rewards make it worthwhile.
When you guide, what piece of advice do you find you give most often to climbers?
I think Mark Twight gives the best advice in his book "Extreme Alpinism". He says that it is common to look at photographs of climbers doing really cool climbs and think to yourself " I want to be that climber right now!" But he cautions us that behind those pictures there are many years of apprenticeship and dedication.
What qualities do you think are most important in a guide?
Patience and good mountain sense.
Name a few guide “turn-ons” (for example, what makes a good climber on one of your courses, ascents, or expeditions?).
Climbing with people who have a good attitude is the best. Those who enjoy the journey vs. the destination get the most out of a challenging climb.
Any memorable events while guiding for AAI?
Last summer, I remember topping out on Mt. Whitney via the East Buttress route with a climber named Steve. Standing there on the summit was a man dressed up as Elvis and drinking a Fosters. He was hamming it up for all the other hikers. It was pretty entertaining.
What are your must-haves? Favorite foods or gear?
I must have dried fruit and wet wipes for back country trips :)
Describe your achievement of which you are the most proud.
I am proud of getting three of four team members to the summit of Denali this past Spring. We had challenging conditions, but through perseverance, enjoyed standing on top of North America's highest peak together.
Any closing comments?
Get out there and enjoy Mother Nature's design. Some of Her most beautiful displays will only be viewed through hard work and determination.
This week, we interview Paul Ivaska.
Age: 38
Hometown: Monroe, Connecticut
Recent trips and expeditions with AAI: Denali (West Buttress), Temple Crag (Venusian Blind), North
Palisade (U-Notch Couloir)Upcoming courses with AAI: Mt. Whitney (East Buttress)
A Guide’s Life
How old were you when you first started climbing?
22 years old. I was attending an Army Medic training course in Ft. Sam Houston, TX. My roommate had experience climbing in the Dolomites of Northern Italy. He invited me out to do some climbing in the hill country north of San Antonio. I was immediately hooked!
How do you stay in shape, and what are your favorite training activities?
Guiding and Ski Patrolling keep me in shape.
Who is the most inspiring person in your climbing life?
My friend Mike Storeim from Colorado. He grew up climbing in Eldorado Canyon and the South Platte region in the 70's (a time when climbers had so little as far as equipment goes, but did so much as far as pushing the traditional climbing standard). I learned a lot from him and enjoyed many a great climb with him.
What are your other interests besides climbing?
Skiing and guiding.
Where is your favorite place to travel?
As each year goes by, I find myself enjoying more mountain ranges in North America. My favorite ranges are those with the beautiful combination of huge granite walls and glaciers. I would like to one day go climb alpine walls in Pakistan and Patagonia. I also enjoy climbing in the Utah desert.
On the Technical Side
Describe your climbing style.
I enjoy long alpine rock routes the most.
What has been your most technically difficult climb?
The route Oz in Tuolumne Meadows. It was sustained in its difficulties and very aesthetic. I have done two climbing routes that where put up by Dale Bard in the Sierra and found them both awesome in setting and difficulty.
What is your biggest strength as a climber? Biggest weakness?
Strength: I don't let long arduous approaches deter me from climbing interesting routes. Weakness: I sometimes have a hard time leaving the coffee shop to go climb :)
A Guide on Guiding
Is there anything you know now that you'd wish you'd known when you were just beginning to climb?
Trying to make a living climbing is difficult, but the rewards make it worthwhile.
When you guide, what piece of advice do you find you give most often to climbers?
I think Mark Twight gives the best advice in his book "Extreme Alpinism". He says that it is common to look at photographs of climbers doing really cool climbs and think to yourself " I want to be that climber right now!" But he cautions us that behind those pictures there are many years of apprenticeship and dedication.
What qualities do you think are most important in a guide?
Patience and good mountain sense.
Name a few guide “turn-ons” (for example, what makes a good climber on one of your courses, ascents, or expeditions?).
Climbing with people who have a good attitude is the best. Those who enjoy the journey vs. the destination get the most out of a challenging climb.
Any memorable events while guiding for AAI?
Last summer, I remember topping out on Mt. Whitney via the East Buttress route with a climber named Steve. Standing there on the summit was a man dressed up as Elvis and drinking a Fosters. He was hamming it up for all the other hikers. It was pretty entertaining.
What are your must-haves? Favorite foods or gear?
I must have dried fruit and wet wipes for back country trips :)
Describe your achievement of which you are the most proud.
I am proud of getting three of four team members to the summit of Denali this past Spring. We had challenging conditions, but through perseverance, enjoyed standing on top of North America's highest peak together.
Any closing comments?
Get out there and enjoy Mother Nature's design. Some of Her most beautiful displays will only be viewed through hard work and determination.
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- July 3, 2008
NORTHWEST:
--Firefighters are currently battling a blaze just north of Kendall in the North Fork of the Nooksack River. To read more, click here.
--A cool new mixed line went up on Sacajawea Peak in the Lost River Range of Idaho. Dean Lords and Justin Avenius found M7 moves on the eight hundred foot east ridge of the peak. To read more, click here.
--The Bellingham Herald ran a story last week about recognizing and treating altitude sickness. To read it, click here.
--The Northwest Avalanche Center is working to upgrade their website in order for it to be more user friendly. They are looking for input on this project and have posted a survey online. If you would like to help them with their upgrades, check out their survey here.
--A climber was rescued after a crevasse fall from the Kautz Glacier on Mount Rainier yesterday morning. To read more, click here.
ALASKA:
--American Alpine Institute Denali Teams 7 and 8 summitted Tuesday! They are now in the process of working their way back down the mountain to the airstrip. To read our daily trip dispatches, click here.
--A grizzly bear attacked a 14-year old girl competing in a bike race near Anchorage just outside Chugach State Park this week. The teenage girl suffered severe injuries on her head, neck, torso and legs. She is listed in critical condition. To read more about this incident, click here.
SIERRA:
--More than one thousand wilderness fires are burning across California right now. Most of these were started by the lethal combination of lightning, warm weather, and high winds. To read more about these fires and the effort to contain them, click here. Up to date reports may be found here.
--Heart transplant recipient, Kelly Perkins, 46, recently completed the Regular Northwest Face Route on the Half Dome in Yosemite. Perkins completed the two and a half day 2000 foot big wall route on Saturday. The climb caps a string of notable ascents since Perkins received a heart transplant in 1996. To read more, click here.
--This morning NPR had a great story on the new Yosemite El Capitan speed record. To listen, click here.
SOUTH AMERICA:
--Damian Benegas completed a new line on Huallomen (Wyoming) Peak (17,923') in the Condoriri Valley of Bolivia. The line is 14 pitches long with sections of WI 5. Former American Alpine Institute guides Geoffrey Bartram and Miles Newby opened up a number of routes in this valley in the late eighties. To read more about Damian's ascent, click here.
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--More than one thousand wilderness fires are burning across California right now. Most of these were started by the lethal combination of lightning, warm weather, and high winds. To read more about these fires and the effort to contain them, click here.
--New York City is implementing an "Anti-Spidey" law. The new law will make it illegal to climb or jump off any building over 25 feet tall. Adventure seekers will now face a fine of up to a $1000 and will be charged with a Class A misdemeanor. It is likely that climbers and BASE jumpers that are strangely attracted to buildings instead of mountains will be willing to risk such a fine. To read more, click here.
--Nine young hikers were rescued Monday from a ledge above a swollen creek in Western New York. The hikers -- dressed in nothing but t-shirts and shorts -- were hiking in the Zoar Valley, 30 miles south of Buffalo, when they were cut off by a flood. The group was forced to spend the night before being rescued. To read more, click here.
--Climber, photographer and skier, Jimmy Chin solo climbed and skied the Grand, Middle and South Tetons in Grand Teton National Park in a remarkable 10 hours and 55 minutes. To read more about this super fast climbing and skiing trifecta, click here.
--A peak in Nepal has been named for the legendary chronicler of Himalayan climbing, Elizabeth Hawley. French ice climber François Damilano named a peak in the in the Dhaulagiri Group after a solo ascent. Hawley has been documenting ascents in the Himalaya since 1963. Her biography, I'll Call You in Kathmandu, by Bernadette McDonald was recently published by the Mountaineers Books. To read more about Damilano's ascent, click here.
--The extremely popular rock climbing forum, rockclimbing.com was recently sold to NameMedia. This company also recently acquired dropzone.com and BASEjumper.com. To read the NameMedia press release, click here. To read the announcement on rockclimbing.com and to see both the positive and negative responses to the sale, click here.
--Firefighters are currently battling a blaze just north of Kendall in the North Fork of the Nooksack River. To read more, click here.
--A cool new mixed line went up on Sacajawea Peak in the Lost River Range of Idaho. Dean Lords and Justin Avenius found M7 moves on the eight hundred foot east ridge of the peak. To read more, click here.
--The Bellingham Herald ran a story last week about recognizing and treating altitude sickness. To read it, click here.
--The Northwest Avalanche Center is working to upgrade their website in order for it to be more user friendly. They are looking for input on this project and have posted a survey online. If you would like to help them with their upgrades, check out their survey here.
--A climber was rescued after a crevasse fall from the Kautz Glacier on Mount Rainier yesterday morning. To read more, click here.
ALASKA:
--American Alpine Institute Denali Teams 7 and 8 summitted Tuesday! They are now in the process of working their way back down the mountain to the airstrip. To read our daily trip dispatches, click here.
--A grizzly bear attacked a 14-year old girl competing in a bike race near Anchorage just outside Chugach State Park this week. The teenage girl suffered severe injuries on her head, neck, torso and legs. She is listed in critical condition. To read more about this incident, click here.
SIERRA:
--More than one thousand wilderness fires are burning across California right now. Most of these were started by the lethal combination of lightning, warm weather, and high winds. To read more about these fires and the effort to contain them, click here. Up to date reports may be found here.
--Heart transplant recipient, Kelly Perkins, 46, recently completed the Regular Northwest Face Route on the Half Dome in Yosemite. Perkins completed the two and a half day 2000 foot big wall route on Saturday. The climb caps a string of notable ascents since Perkins received a heart transplant in 1996. To read more, click here.
--This morning NPR had a great story on the new Yosemite El Capitan speed record. To listen, click here.
SOUTH AMERICA:
--Damian Benegas completed a new line on Huallomen (Wyoming) Peak (17,923') in the Condoriri Valley of Bolivia. The line is 14 pitches long with sections of WI 5. Former American Alpine Institute guides Geoffrey Bartram and Miles Newby opened up a number of routes in this valley in the late eighties. To read more about Damian's ascent, click here.
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--More than one thousand wilderness fires are burning across California right now. Most of these were started by the lethal combination of lightning, warm weather, and high winds. To read more about these fires and the effort to contain them, click here.
--New York City is implementing an "Anti-Spidey" law. The new law will make it illegal to climb or jump off any building over 25 feet tall. Adventure seekers will now face a fine of up to a $1000 and will be charged with a Class A misdemeanor. It is likely that climbers and BASE jumpers that are strangely attracted to buildings instead of mountains will be willing to risk such a fine. To read more, click here.
--Nine young hikers were rescued Monday from a ledge above a swollen creek in Western New York. The hikers -- dressed in nothing but t-shirts and shorts -- were hiking in the Zoar Valley, 30 miles south of Buffalo, when they were cut off by a flood. The group was forced to spend the night before being rescued. To read more, click here.
--Climber, photographer and skier, Jimmy Chin solo climbed and skied the Grand, Middle and South Tetons in Grand Teton National Park in a remarkable 10 hours and 55 minutes. To read more about this super fast climbing and skiing trifecta, click here.
--A peak in Nepal has been named for the legendary chronicler of Himalayan climbing, Elizabeth Hawley. French ice climber François Damilano named a peak in the in the Dhaulagiri Group after a solo ascent. Hawley has been documenting ascents in the Himalaya since 1963. Her biography, I'll Call You in Kathmandu, by Bernadette McDonald was recently published by the Mountaineers Books. To read more about Damilano's ascent, click here.
--The extremely popular rock climbing forum, rockclimbing.com was recently sold to NameMedia. This company also recently acquired dropzone.com and BASEjumper.com. To read the NameMedia press release, click here. To read the announcement on rockclimbing.com and to see both the positive and negative responses to the sale, click here.
Wednesday, July 2, 2008
Conditions Report -- July 2, 2008
NORTHWEST:
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Forecast for Denali
--We currently have multiple teams on the mountain. Everybody has found good coverage of crevasses and easy movement on the lower Kahiltna. The Denali season is about to come to a close.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--It appears the climbers and hikers that are camping behind the Mobile in Lee Vining are feeling a bit of pressure from the locals. This bivy area may not remain open for long. To read more, click here. For those who are not in the know, some of the best dining in the Eastern Sierra can be found at the Mobile Station in Lee Vining. The Whoa Nellie Deli is ironically considered to be one of the finest dining establishments in the entirety of the Sierra. To read more, click here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--The bridge that accesses the North Side of Mount Baker on the Heliotrope Ridge trail is still out. The arrow in the following picture details the log crossing that has been used by our guides to access the remainder of the trail:
--The warm weather has had a serious impact on the snow. Many roads that were not previously snow free are now completely free of snow. The Hannegan Pass road is clear of snow. The Glacier Creek Road -- the road used to access the North Side of Baker -- still requires about twenty minutes of walking.
--It appears that car prowlers are messing around with vehicles at the parking area for Exit 38. Most trailhead thieves are in search of credit cards and wallets that have been left by hikers and climbers. To read more, click here.
--Many routes in the Pacific Northwest saw ascents over the weekend. Clear skies and unusually warm temperatures got a lot of teams into the mountains. A party completed the Ruth-Icy Traverse, another party climbed Cutthroat Peak, a party climbed Mount Maude, a party climbed the Fuhrer Finger of Mount Rainier, and a party climbed Mount Daniel.
--And though it was sunny and hot over the weekend, people are still getting after it on skis. Colchuck Glacier was skied this weekend, Mount Adams was skied, and lastly, people are still finding a lot of skiable snow at the lower elevations in places like Snoqualmie Pass.
ALASKA RANGE:
--The warm weather has had a serious impact on the snow. Many roads that were not previously snow free are now completely free of snow. The Hannegan Pass road is clear of snow. The Glacier Creek Road -- the road used to access the North Side of Baker -- still requires about twenty minutes of walking.--It appears that car prowlers are messing around with vehicles at the parking area for Exit 38. Most trailhead thieves are in search of credit cards and wallets that have been left by hikers and climbers. To read more, click here.
--Many routes in the Pacific Northwest saw ascents over the weekend. Clear skies and unusually warm temperatures got a lot of teams into the mountains. A party completed the Ruth-Icy Traverse, another party climbed Cutthroat Peak, a party climbed Mount Maude, a party climbed the Fuhrer Finger of Mount Rainier, and a party climbed Mount Daniel.
--And though it was sunny and hot over the weekend, people are still getting after it on skis. Colchuck Glacier was skied this weekend, Mount Adams was skied, and lastly, people are still finding a lot of skiable snow at the lower elevations in places like Snoqualmie Pass.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Forecast for Denali
--We currently have multiple teams on the mountain. Everybody has found good coverage of crevasses and easy movement on the lower Kahiltna. The Denali season is about to come to a close.
SIERRA:
--For up to date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--It appears the climbers and hikers that are camping behind the Mobile in Lee Vining are feeling a bit of pressure from the locals. This bivy area may not remain open for long. To read more, click here. For those who are not in the know, some of the best dining in the Eastern Sierra can be found at the Mobile Station in Lee Vining. The Whoa Nellie Deli is ironically considered to be one of the finest dining establishments in the entirety of the Sierra. To read more, click here.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Temperatures continue to climb in Red Rock and the season has officially ended. Average highs throughout the summer range between 102 and 108. The campground is closed and will re-open at the beginning of September. Locals tend to climb at higher altitudes where the temperatures are cooler. Many visit Mount Charleston or Flagstaff throughout the summer season.
CLIMBING MAGAZINE WEATHER:
Climbing Magazine weather reports for Yosemite, Denali and Rainier may be found here.
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
Climbers are Funny!
Mountain Guide Jokes:
What do you call a mountain guide without a girlfriend?
Homeless.
How do you get ten mountain guides into a closet?
Tell them they can live there.
How do you get them back out again?
Tell them that they have to pay rent.
How do you know the mountain guide at the party?
Don't worry, he'll tell you.
A full page of Canadian mountain guide jokes may be found here. But be warned, there is a great deal of adult humor on the website.
Other Funny Climbing Related Things:
You might be a Mountain Climber if...
--Some people write some really dumb comments on the Forest Service Comment cards. To read some of these, click here. My favorite is, "a small deer came into camp and stole a bag of pickles. Is there any way I can get reimbursed?"
What do you call a mountain guide without a girlfriend?
Homeless.
How do you get ten mountain guides into a closet?
Tell them they can live there.
How do you get them back out again?
Tell them that they have to pay rent.
How do you know the mountain guide at the party?
Don't worry, he'll tell you.
A full page of Canadian mountain guide jokes may be found here. But be warned, there is a great deal of adult humor on the website.
Other Funny Climbing Related Things:
You might be a Mountain Climber if...
- You own a $75 dress suit and a $1000 Gore-Tex suit.
- You have ever frozen your lips to an ice screw while blowing an ice plug at your partner.
- You have ever used an ice axe to chop weeds in the garden.
- You have more summit pictures than wedding pictures.
- You've ever had icicles hanging from any part of your face.
- You've ever fallen so far that you've run out of adrenaline before you ran out of rope.
- You say "Namaste" instead of "Hello."
- You like the smell of burning yak dung.
- What you call cold is not on the thermometer scale.
- When you hear the words "nose," "captain," or "aid," your hands start hurting and swelling.
- You arrive at a climbing gym with stoppers and cams still in your bag.
- You hear the name "Hillary" and think about Everest instead of the former first lady.
- And finally, you understood all the previous lines. If you laughed at any of these lame lines, then you should definitely get back to work.
--Some people write some really dumb comments on the Forest Service Comment cards. To read some of these, click here. My favorite is, "a small deer came into camp and stole a bag of pickles. Is there any way I can get reimbursed?"
July and August Climbing Events
NORTHWEST:
--July 9-12 -- Mount Rainier, WA -- Climb to Conquer SADS
--July 16-20 -- Squamish, BC -- Squamish Mountain Festival
SOUTHWEST:
--July 16 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council Meeting
--August 20 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council Meeting
--August 20 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council Meeting
NOTES FROM ALL OVER:
--Former AAI Guide and writer Majka Burhardt will be presenting a slide show on her new book, Vertical Ethiopia in Boulder, Greenwich, Boston, New Paltz, San Francisco, and Telluride. For more info, click here.
--July 1 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Perfecto Premier
--July 9-13 -- Lander, WY -- International Climber's Festival
--July 15 -- NA -- Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition Deadline
--July 27 -- Allgäu Mountains, Germany -- UIAA Global Youth Summit: Hot rocks wild water camp in Germany
--August 8-9 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Mammut Bouldering Championship
--August 16-23 -- Bicz Gorges National Park, Romania -- International Youth Climbing Camp
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
