Saturday, February 28, 2009
Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!
Friday, February 27, 2009
Carabou Recovery Rock 'n Roll!
This month, more than a year after the original landmark agreement for the highly endangered mountain caribou, the British Columbia government legalized a caribou recovery plan that protects more than 90% of the caribou's best winter habitat from logging and road building. That's more than 2.2 million hectares (5.4 million acres), an area eight times the size of North Cascades National Park, of globally unique Inland Temperate Rainforest.
The victory comes following years of hard work by Conservation Northwest and our close allies, Wildsight, Forest Ethics, and others in the Mountain Caribou Project. Still needed is careful attention to conservation "IOUs" promised in the original agreement. But today, one of North America's most endangered mammals, the mountain caribou, just became a little less endangered.
Tour Planning and Navigation - Part 1
Planning a backcountry ski or climbing trip encompasses a wide range of details that can ultimately define the safety and success of any adventure into the wild. In the field climbers make countless difficult decisions dealing with route options and safety. Why not be prepared for them with a bomb-proof Tour Plan? Here we will detail the materials needed to get you started.


The basic sighting compass with adjustable declination, slope meter, sight, mirror, and rulers.
The basic materials for any trip are a good map and compass. Without the ability to interpret them both, route finding would be pretty tricky eh?
A sighting compass is also one of our most valuable tools in the mountains. Like selecting a new car, make sure your compass has all the options, but not so many that you will get confused with it. A basic sighting compass with mirror, and adjustable declination arrow will make your orienteering efforts much more accurate especially when triangulating (resection) on unknown locations. Other options that make things plush are a built in slope meter, distance rulers (printed on the base plate), and a magnifier (which I use to ID snow crystals). Prices range from a few bucks to hundreds of dollars, in my experience don’t spend hundreds but get something a little higher end than the one from your 8yr olds outdoor detective kit. You want something with a few more options.

Brooks Range Map Tool. Sweet!
Get yourself an altimeter! This can be one of the most useful planning and navigational tools. I also use this item to help forecast weather events by monitoring the barometer/altimeter at camps. Currently the most common wrist top altimeter watch can be found at just about any outdoor retailer and is made by Suunto. You can also look for a really cool large yellow plastic thing on someone’s wrist at your local rock climbing wall. It’s probably an altimeter watch. Ask them “whats your elevation man?” for me…
A GPS unit can make planning, in conjunction with a computer, super easy. Getting acquainted with these sytems can take time but will create a plan quickly and can be printed out at home custom, with a multitude of different mapping programs. When selecting the right program for yourself realize that they all have there limitations, and one user may prefer one over another, most systems create the same product so it is important to ask around and see what other users recommend with the ever changing technology. Personally I use a basic Garmin GPS unit, in conjunction with the National Geographic TOPO program. This seems to work really well for all of the western US and Alaska. Disclaimer: A GPS is not a replacement for good map reading and compass work! Get really good with your maps.
Now find yourself a Brooks Range (www.brooks-range.com) All –in- One map tool for easy UTM grid reading, and distances on varying scales of maps. This tool incorporates just about all the information you need to formulate an accurate tour plan on almost any type map. Now… put all of this information into a nice weather proof journal. I use the Write in the rain #311 (www.RiteintheRain.com) type book for all planning, forecasting, and snow science reports. That’s a lot of information! Guess what? You will be super excited to have it when making difficult decisions with your friends!
Have fun!

Where am I? aHH-- Ben Traxler, AAI Guide
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- February 26, 2009
--A cross-country skier who was beaten and apparently left for dead has three college students to thank for saving his life. Robert Tracey, 52, told investigators that two men attacked him Monday near Dougan Falls, along Washington's Washougal River. He said one even came back and choked him. The men then left Tracey in the snow and may have taken his SUV, which is now nowhere to be found. A trio of college students who set out on a hike that day happened upon Tracey and could not believe what they saw. To read more, click here.
--Mount Rainier National Park will conduct a test of the Geohazard Warning Siren at the Nisqually Entrance on Saturday, February 28, 2009, at 12:00, noon. The park is testing the new system and attempting to familiarize visitors, local residents and staff with the siren in the event of an actual geohazard. The Geohazard Warning Siren is designed to warn park staff and visitors of sudden geohazards, including lahars and smaller debris flows. Without warning, debris flows and glacial outburst floods can occur at any time, eroding stream banks and scouring everything in their paths, including rocks and trees. In case such an emergency occurs within the park, it is recommended that visitors head up hill, away from rivers and streams, and rising water. Avoid crossing any running water once the siren has been activated. Geohazard sirens are located at Cougar Rock Campground, Longmire, and Nisqually Entrance. To read more, click here.
--Prolific ice climbers Will Gadd and EJ Plimley recently climbed Canada's thrid tallest waterfall. The 1,000-foot tall Hunlen Falls in Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, east of Bella Coola, British Columbia, provided the climbers with a stunning and dangerous ascent. The route was in incredibly poor shape and the team faced the possibility of the route's collapse throughout their ascent. To read more, click here.
Southwest:
--Artist Sherri Lewis recently finished this phenomenal wooden mural of "The Escarpment" in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. This mural was recently featured on a thread in supertopo.com. To see the thread, click here.
Sierra:
--A mountaineer from South Korea is alive after being trapped in a Yosemite avalanche. Injured Monday when a slab of snow cut loose on the steep slopes beneath the face of Half Dome, rescuers pulled Jun Ho Wang off the slope by helicopter Tuesday. To read more, click here.
--High avalanche danger led to a snow slide in bounds at the June Mountain Ski Area. A local snowboarder was carried on a wave of snow and suffered minor injuries. Skiing below the Mid Chalet, the snowboarder triggered a slide in an area that had seen much avalanche control over the past few days. When the pocket of powder slid, the boarder was carried about 100 feet before he hit a tree and stopped. The avalanche continued down the slope without him. Hitting obstacles like trees and rocks while being carried by an avalanche commonly cause major trauma, but in this case the snowboarder was relatively uninjured. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--A terrifying video has made its way around the web. It appears that an Argentinian guide suffering from an altitude related illness was abandoned on Aconcagua by his would-be rescuers. A video that has lit up the web like wildfire shows the rescuers making feeble attempts at reviving the man and then leaving him. To read more, click here.
--National Forest lands, desert landscapes and the National Park Service (NPS) will receive $2.5 billion under the stimulus plan signed by President Obama yesterday. The money will pay for improvemtns to visitor facilities, road and trail restoration, preservation of building of cultural and historical importance, rehabilitation of abandoned mines and oild fields and environmental cleanup projects. To read more, click here.
--Hikers who climb to the summit of Colorado's Pikes Peak but call for a rescue so that they don't have to walk the 12 miles back down could soon have to pay for their ride. The Colorado Springs city council is expected to vote Tuesday on a proposal from Pikes Peak Highway officials that would charge up to $500 for each uninjured hiker who calls 911 for a ride down. To read more, click here.
--An Alps like mountain range was recently discovered under the Antarctic ice. Flying twin-engine light aircraft the equivalent of several trips around the globe and establishing a network of seismic instruments across an area the size of Texas, a U.S.-led, international team of scientists has not only verified the existence of a mountain range that is suspected to have caused the massive East Antarctic Ice Sheet to form, but also has created a detailed picture of the rugged landscape buried under more than four kilometers (2.5 miles) of ice. To read more, click here.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Conditions Report -- February 25, 2009
RED ROCK CANYON:
Spring conditions on Mt. Wilson in the morning light (2008) Photo by Jason Martin
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The hours to the scenic drive recently changed. The BLM has begun to open the loop at 7 AM in order to save money. Please call Mark Tenaka-Sanders, the Las Vegas Field Office manager at 702-515-5365 to complain.
JOSHUA TREE:

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
NORTHWEST:
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
Summit Of Mt St Helens In The Winter (2/20/2009)
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest Ice Conditions may be found here.


--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
--Forecast for Denali
--Webcam for Denali National Park.
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
North Cascade Highway
The preliminary best guess is that we'll be able to start reopening the North Cascades Highway the last week in March or the first week in April.
Our Avalanche Control and Maintenance technicians traveled from the east closure point at Early Winters, west of Mazama 20 miles to Rainy Pass on snowmobiles and a snow cat this morning, assessing the conditions. They encountered overcast skies, 27 degree temperatures and no new snow. Only 4/100ths of an inch of precipitation was recorded in the last 24 hours, and most of that was rain. We expect to be able to free up the personnel and equipment we need for the reopening from Stevens Pass and some of our other facilities by late March or early April, depending on weather, equipment and manpower.
They found only moderate snow depths this year. For example the snow at Washington summit is only 5-1/2 feet deep when it's usually 7 to 9 feet deep. At the same time they found more slides and they’re a different consistency - they look like lava. The slides at Liberty Bell Mtn., just east of Washington Pass are an example: The highway passes under them, and loops back to the east around Spiral Gulch.
The snow is 40-feet deep and 1200-feet wide below LB 2 and 3, but it came down with such force that the same slide covered the highway on the opposite side of the gulch with snow that’s 25-feet deep and 1200 feet wide. Further east in the avalanche chutes in the Cutthroat Ridge zone,some slides were as much as 20 feet deep and 12 to 1500 feet wide. Another anomaly for this season is a 40-foot deep slide near Bridge Creek, between Rainy and Washington Passes. The avalanche crew had never seen a slide there before.
The highway was closed for the season on December 11th. Last spring, the highway reopened on May 1st. Visit the WSDOT FlickR photo page to view pictures from the assessment:
www.flickr.com/search/?q=WSDOT&s=rec
For more information, visit the North Cascades Highway web page:
www.wsdot.wa.gov/Traffic/Passes/NorthCascades/
The official news release with the official scheduled dates and some of the photos should be approved and posted sometime tomorrow. Lets hope that the lava-look avalanches are only a crust and won't take any longer to cut through than normal - a nice, uneventful 4 week clearing effort would be nice - we've had enough "disasters" this winter...!
Film Review: Touching the Void
February and March Climbing Events
--March 6-8 -- Anchorage, AK -- Alaska Ice Climbing Festival
--March 11-12 -- San Francisco -- Banff Mountain Film Festival
--March 12 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Banff Mountain Film Festival
--March 20-22 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Red Rock Rendezvous
--March 20-21 -- Anchorage, AK -- Banff Mountain Film Festival
--March 27-28 -- Bishop, CA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival
Monday, February 23, 2009
Intro To Aid Technique
A basic aid pitch requires one to place a piece of protection. Once the piece is secure, the climber will clip an etrier or aider to that piece of gear. An etrier (which some people refer to as an aider) is a nylon ladder. The climber will climb up the etrier until she is as high as possible. The climber will then place another piece of gear and clip another etrier to this. An aid pitch requires one to do this repeatedly as he or she works up the route.
A big wall climb is a route that is so big, that it generally takes more than a day to complete. Many walls require one to haul bags full of food, water and equipment as well as to use a portable ledge (a portaledge). This type of climbing can be equated to vertical backpacking.
Most big wall climbs require a great deal of aid climbing. Part of the reason that one must sleep on the wall is because aid climbing is incredibly slow. There has to be a piece of gear of some sort every six feet. If a climber is not quick with her system, then the time will add up very quickly and a Grade IV will turn into a Grade VI.
Aid climbing requires a lot of unusual gear. Following is a quick glossary of simple aid terms. There is a lot more to this aspect of climbing and this should simply be thought of as a quick intro:
- Hook -- This is literally a hook that one might use as a piece of protection. A climber will put a small metal hook over a rock lip and then clip the etrier to it in order to move up.
- Jumar -- The second (the follower) on an aid pitch is required to climb the rope instead of the rock. The second will usually do this with mechanical ascenders called jumars. The act of climbing up the rope with these is called jugging.
- A1-A5 -- The aid grade system. An A1 placement is perfect and could hold a bus. An A5 placement is really bad and will only hold bodyweight.
- Daisy Chain -- This is a personal anchor system with a series of loops sewn into it. A climber can place a hook (called a fifi hook) on her harness an hook the loops of the daisy to shorten it.
- Hauling -- The act of dragging a bag up the wall. This is the most miserable part of an aid climb.
- Copperhead -- A wire with a maleable copper top. These can be pounded into a crack and will usually hold bodyweight on high end aid climbs.
- Nailing -- A pitch that requires the use of pitons.
At AAI we will begin teaching aid and big wall technique in a classroom format for the first time this summer. Previously, we have only taught these courses on a private basis. This summer we will be offering aid and big wall technique in Part III of our Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership series.
--Jason D. Martin
Saturday, February 21, 2009
Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!
The second video we've got for you should make any tele-skiers mouth begin to water. So many turns....so much snow....so beautiful!!!
The final video is for anyone who, like me, is stuck behind a desk all week. I've come up with a new technique to help satiate that powder hunger that always seems to come near the end of the week. First, set up a big fan by your computer. Second, lean way in towards the screen. Third, put on your ski goggles. Lastly, watch this video (full screen) and be prepared to find yourself cruisin' the pow with the Pointer Sisters blasting on your iPod.
Friday, February 20, 2009
Rock Rescue: The Munter-Mule
The munter-mule is one of the most useful combination's that one can employ in any rock rescue scenario. It provides the basis for load transfers and for a number of other rescue techniques.
In the video, the climber refers to the mule knot as a slip knot...which it is, but the official name for what he is doing is the "mule."
It is important to watch how the climber releases the mule. He never takes his hand off the break strand. I believe that the most common mistake that people make in this particular setting is that they completely let go of the break strand as they jump their break hand up the strand and closer to the hitch. When you practice, be aware of this and be careful to avoid letting go of the break strand.
--Jason D. Martin
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Climbing News from Here and Abroad -- February 19, 2009

Sierra:


Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Conditions Report -- February 18, 2009
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The hours to the scenic drive recently changed. The BLM has begun to open the loop at 7 AM in order to save money. Please call Mark Tenaka-Sanders, the Las Vegas Field Office manager at 702-515-5365 to complain.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

NORTHWEST:
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest Ice Conditions may be found here.
--The Tieton River climbing areas have been closed for the season due to nesting raptors. To read more about this closure, click here.
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
--Forecast for Denali
--Webcam for Denali National Park.
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Scaling Summits - AAI Climber Art Huseonica Profiled
Failure to communicate is not an option when you are dangling on a rope, tied to a partner at 18,000 above sea level. Toastmaster Art Huseonica enjoys the many parallels between his worldwide climbing adventures and his Toastmasters experience. Recently back from a speed ascent of Washington’s Mt. Rainer with accomplished American climber Ed Viesturs, Huseonica says leadership, preparation and precise communication are essential for survival both in front of an audience and on top of a mountain.
Taking Toastmasters to New Heights
Scaling Summits
From the Toastmaster magazine, January 2009
By Julie Bawden Davis
Art Huseonica’s idea of fun takes his breath away – literally. When he’s where he wants to be, this Toastmaster is climbing in thin air at 17,000 feet, and he couldn’t be happier.
“People say I’m crazy, but I like the mental and physical challenges of high-altitude mountain climbing,” says Huseonica. “Even though I’m breathing hard and it feels like I’ve got cellophane over my face, the experience is exhilarating.”
Huseonica, a member of the Kritikos club in Odenton, Maryland, has been involved in extreme sports for many years, including skydiving and hot-air ballooning, but he didn’t begin serious mountaineering until four years ago. Since then, he has reached 17,200 feet on Alaska’s Mount McKinley (also known as Denali – “The Great One”), turning back from its 20,320-foot summit because his guide was ill; climbed the Andes in South America twice, and scaled Mount Rainier four times.
When Huseonica joined Toastmasters in January 2008, he did so to improve his presentation skills, but he soon discovered significant parallels between the skills needed in his club and climbing.
“Good communication is critical with mountain climbing,” says Huseonica, who serves as vice president public relations for his club. “When faced with extreme physical situations, it’s important that you communicate precisely and concisely and are very articulate so as not to waste your breath.” He has seen other climbers suffer from conditions such as altitude sickness because of reduced air pressure and oxygen. This can affect the brain and lungs and even lead to death, so it’s important that climbers pay attention to one another’s body language.
“If another climber gets wobbly legs and starts walking like he or she is drunk, that’s an indication that something is wrong,” says Huseonica, who notes that climbers watch out for each other. “At times, in order to conserve oxygen, we’ll use a simple thumbs up or down to check on each other’s well-being.”
Huesonica notes that many aspects of the Toastmasters Promise also apply to mountain climbing, and he has done a speech on the subject.
“Seven out of 10 of the Promise items relate to mountain climbing,” he says. “For instance, Number Two is to be prepared. In mountain climbing, physical and mental preparation are key. Physically, you train and get all of the right gear, and mentally you psyche yourself into the climb.”
Number 10 also applies, he says. “Maintaining honest and highly ethical standards during the conduct of all activities can be seen through the ‘leave no trace’ standards that climbers strive to meet by bringing down all solid waste and only leaving their boot prints on the mountains they visit.”
Fellow club member Anita Hoffman enjoys Huseonica’s speeches about his climbing expeditions. “He’s a very good speaker who is comfortable with his audience, and he has thrilling subject matter that keeps us all on the edge of our seats,” she says.
Coley Gentzel has climbed with Huseonica on several occasions. He is the program coordinator and a guide for the American Alpine Institute, a Bellingham, Washington-based company that conducts mountain tours. “People like Art are in a category all of their own,” says Gentzel. “He’s very passionate about climbing and great at sharing his enthusiasm with other climbers. He was instrumental in spearheading the Denali climb, which consisted of climbers who were almost all over the age of 50. Known as the ‘Ice Agers,’ they took a slightly less aggressive approach up the mountain. Art facilitated the group’s correspondence in the months leading up to the 24-day trip. He and another climber even created logos and T-shirts.”
Huseonica’s wife, Karen, feels that her husband’s involvement with Toastmasters has positively affected his climbing. “His membership has reinforced his confidence and self-assurance, making him even more careful and prepared when he climbs,” she says.
Known as “Base-camp Karen” by everyone who climbs with Huseonica, she talks with her husband via satellite telephone during his adventures and then e-mails her reports to friends and family.
Huseonica’s climbing mentor is Ed Viesturs, America’s leading high-altitude mountaineer, and the two men have twice scaled Mount Rainier together.
Though he enjoys all of his climbs, Huseonica especially looks forward to his treks with Viesturs, whom he met during the famous mountaineer’s travels across the U.S. promoting his IMAX-format film, Everest. “Ed and I got to talking at some of his book signings, and I gave him some suggestions for his Web site,” says Huseonica. “Eventually he invited me on a climb. The best part of climbing with Ed is that I learn something new every time.”
On their most recent climb together, on Mount Rainier, they did a speed ascent in order to prevent altitude sickness. During that climb, Viesturs took the picture of Huseonica holding the Kritikos Toastmasters logo.
Huseonica suspects that the urge to climb mountains has something to do with his upbringing. He grew up in Homer City, Pennsylvania, an isolated town of just 200 people in central western Pennsylvania. “My father worked in the local coal mine, and we had outdoor plumbing,” he says. “The town was so small, there was just one store, one gas station and a small post office. From that experience I learned about self-reliance and depending on family.”
After leaving home, Huseonica served in the U.S. Navy for 20 years. Adventure comes naturally to him; he spent a lot of time at sea and in isolated shore stations, and was trained to fly aircraft and work on submarines. Since retiring, he has worked in higher education administration and is currently a Web consultant and part-time teacher for the University of Maryland University College and warehouse manager for a school supply company. He also regularly uses his Toastmasters training to speak at local organizations and recently published his club’s Web site.
As for future climbing, Huseonica has been offered a 2010 spot in a Denali climb, and he is waiting for word about another Mount Rainier expedition with Viesturs. “I’d also like to go back to the Grand Canyon with my friend Ray Bellem and do that climb again,” he says. “It’s a beautiful area, and we have a great time climbing together.”
February and March Climbing Events
--February 20-28 -- Vancouver, BC -- Vancouver Mountain Film Festival
--February 21 -- Golden, CO -- AAC Annual Benefit Dinner
--February 22 -- Rochester, MN -- Best of the Midwest Bouldering Challenge
--February 27-March 28 -- DC Metro Area -- Hera Climb 4 Life
--March 6-8 -- Anchorage, AK -- Alaska Ice Climbing Festival
--March 11-12 -- San Francisco -- Banff Mountain Film Festival
--March 12 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Banff Mountain Film Festival
--March 20-22 -- Las Vegas, NV -- Red Rock Rendezvous
--March 20-21 -- Anchorage, AK -- Banff Mountain Film Festival
--March 27-28 -- Bishop, CA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival
Monday, February 16, 2009
Red Rock Rendezvous -- What is it?
At the time I honestly didn't want anything to do with a massive climbing festival. Thousands of climbers descending on Red Rock Canyon at the same time like a hoard of locust was the last thing that I wanted for the crag in my backyard. So I ignored the festival...which was really too bad. I didn't know what I was missing.
The following year, I covered the Red Rock Rendezvous for Climbing magazine. I was provided the opportunity to attend the event for free. And what I found was an utterly phenomenal climber's festival. They provided a number of climbing clinics, slide shows, and seminars for a nominal price. Indeed, they also included food, beer and camping in the price. They did this for climbers of all ability levels and people attended from all over the world. I was somewhat amazed by what they were able to do for the climbers that attended. And I was even more amazed by the fact that they gave away a large portion of the money that they made to the American Alpine Club and to the Access Fund while also supporting the American Safe Climbing Association and the Las Vegas Climber's Liaison Council.
Photo by Shawn Olson
Paul wanted to expand the event from two-days of clinics to three days. He wanted to develop a Friday event that focused totally on beginning level climbers. And he wanted to do this with a highly respected guide service that held a commercial use permit for Red Rock Canyon. In other words, he wanted to work with us.
In 2006, the American Alpine Institute joined Mountain Gear and a number of other companies and non-profit organizations for the Third Annual Red Rock Rendezvous. We ran the Friday beginner clinic and placed guides in numerous half-day climbing clinics on Saturday and Sunday as well. The festival was a massive success...and our guides had an absolute blast.
The festival takes place in two locations. The climbing clinics take place inside the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, while the actual event takes place at Spring Mountain Ranch, a State Park within the boundaries of the Conservation Area. Spring Mountain Ranch features a stage, grassy fields, and a historic ranch house that was owned by Howard Hughs.
The festival hasn't always been perfect. Last year, a group of climbers got a bit unruly. Somebody broke into the ranch house and left a Red Rock Rendezvous water bottle in there. Another group of climbers built a campfire in the parking lot and refused to put it out when asked by rangers to do so. The combination of these things have caused Mountain Gear personnel and Spring Mountain Ranch rangers to tighten the reigns on the festival. They are limiting the number of participants this year, something that hasn't happened in the past. Unfortunately, these incidents have put the entire Rendezvous at risk. We are all hopeful that everybody will be on their best behavior at the 2009 Rendezvous.
This year's Rendezvous will take place from March 20-22 and eighteen American Alpine Institute Guides will be working the event this year. In addition to the guides, dozens of professional climbers will be teaching clincis as well. These climbers include Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, Peter Croft, Ivo Ninov, Katie Brown, Ammon McNealy, as well as many others...
We will be offering private guiding before and after the event, as well as AMGA Single Pitch Instructor courses and Learn to Lead courses. In addition to that, we are planning a rock oriented guide training and lots of personal climbing. Many of our guides have climbing projects that they want to complete during their trip to Vegas this year.
To read more about the Rendezvous, to see pictures of previous events and to register for the Rendezvous, please check out their homepage. We are very excited about this year's event and look forward to more fun in the desert sun!
--Jason D. Martin
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Weekend Warrior -- Videos to Tickle Your Funny Bone!
In my discussion of the two television shows, I pointed out how bad I thought Man vs. Wild was in relation to Survivorman. My premise was essentially that the host of the show would do just about anything that was sensational and as such couldn't be trusted as an expert on outdoor survival techniques.
Now there's a third show that can't be trusted. But this one is a spoof of the other two. Sam Seder, a comedian from Air America, takes on the wilderness in his youtube spoof, Survival Sam.
Following are a few of his very funny videos:
--Jason D. Martin
Friday, February 13, 2009
Trip Report: Skiing the Stoneman
A sunny view of the couloir from the Heather Meadows Lodge at Mt. Baker.
Winter thrill seekers too often dismiss the potential for fun to be had in the backcountry anytime there's less than several feet of new snow. I'm all for skiing the steep and deep when it's around, but I'm also keen on being able to tour longer distances without breaking trail for hours. Last week, a few inches of fresh provided just the right balance between good skiing and touring conditions, during a time of relatively safe avalanche hazard. We settled on a tour plan that would traverse over the shoulder of Mt. Herman and allow us to ski downhill to the base of the couloir.
Justin's wife, Zephyr, with her skis on her back.
Visibility was sparse early in the morning. Finding our way up to the first high col on Mt. Herman took a while with the coming and going white-out conditions. It was nice when it cleared enough for me to put away the GPS as we started booting up the final few feet, just before our first run of the of the day. We ripped skins off our skis at the 5800' col on Mt. Herman and enjoyed a 500 foot run to the base of the Stone Man.
We booted up the 800', 45+ degree Stone Man couloir, arriving at its top in windy conditions and zero visibility all around. Conditions in the couloir truly involved survival skiing. The chute is so steep it had sloughed off most of the previous week's new snow. What snow remained peeled away beneath my ski tips exposing an icy crust ahead of each successive turn. Skiing out the left exit around the cliffs at the bottom involved negotiating the chute's steepest pitch which neared 50 degrees.
Zephyr climbing the chute.
To finish the tour, we continued traversing north from the base of the Stone Man couloir. Along the way we found some of the best snow of the entire day as we skied through the trees completing the circuit back to Heather Meadows and the Mt. Baker Ski Area. All in all, the tour involved 3000' of elevation gain and loss we skied a distance of about 4 miles.
-- Justin Wood, AAI Guide











