It's not always super easy to find things to write about in this blog. So I often lurk on different websites looking for topics to write about. This particular post on rockclimbing.com caught my attention:
I am a new climber-and I've seen many climbers carry knives. Many of them are really attached to them-and consider them their favorite tool. I've met climbers that have stories about their knives and talk about them like a companion. I was thinking I should invest in one-but would love to hear about your experiences or knife stories.
I'm hoping that it will help me with this decision.
This individual must have a strange local ethic. I've never heard a climber talk about his knife like it was a companion. No, instead I've heard climbers complain that their "harness knives" aren't sharp enough or to debate whether or not carrying such an item is even appropriate.
So there are two parts to this question. First, what might a climber need a knife for. And second, why is there even an argument about whether such a tool is appropriate.
Many of you have read the book or seen the movie, Touching the Void. In that particular incident, two climbers found themselves caught in a tremendously dangerous situation. One hung over a cornice, while the other held him on a rope in a precarious stance. As the stance deteriorated and it appeared that both would die, the climber holding the rope decided to cut it...
Lucky he had a knife!
But this was an incredibly unusual situation. In over two hundred years of climbing history, this has happened exactly one time. So this isn't exactly why you need a knife with you.
No, instead you need a knife with you to deal with this:
In the picture above, there are seven or eight slings wrapped around the rappel horn. Most of them are quite bad. Some are crusty. Some have been eaten by mice. And so the best thing to do is to add one more cord, right?
Wrong.
The best thing to do is to add a cord (which you may need a knife to fashion) and then to cut the other tat away (which will also require a knife), so that there is one nice and clean redundant anchor on the horn. Clearing away the garbage at rappel stations provides great stewardship and it shows that you care about the crags where you climb.
Cutting cords and sling material is a common occurrence on long multi-pitch routes that don't see a lot of traffic. It is not at all uncommon to have to do some work to beef up anchors or to clean up old materials left years before. Additionally, a knife could be used to cut away damaged sections of rope, be used in a first aid situation, or even be used to trim materials for a makeshift shelter. There are a million uses for a knife, especially on long routes...
I alluded to the possibility that there was some controversy about carrying a knife. That is not at all the case. Every guide carries a knife. No, instead the controversy lies in what kind of knife you should carry and how you should carry it.
It is not uncommon for people to carry cheap "gas station" knives on cords hanging off their harnesses. Indeed, some people even carry more expensive knives the same way. The concern is that a knife might open and become dangerous, both from the possibility of getting cut as well as the possibility of it damaging gear. As such, there are some guide trainers that don't allow guides to carry knives on their harnesses. They prefer if they were in a pack.
There are a couple of popular harness knives available on the market that theoretically will not open on your harness. The Trango Piranah Climbing Knife (pictured above) is a very small knife that takes up very little space on your harness.
The Trango Sharktool (pictured above) is a nice hybrid between a nut-tool and a knife. It is a nice way to eliminate some of the extra baggage of the other knives described here. In other words, you will only need to have one carabiner for both the knife and your nut-tool.
The Petzl Spatha (pictured above) is a tried and true classic. I would say that I've seen this particular knife on more peoples harnesses than any of the others listed.
Certainly many climbers carry a multi-tool. This is especially useful if you are on an expedition or on a big alpine climb. Some will elect to carry their multi-tool on a harness, but most will stow it in a pack.
So to answer the original question, there are many uses for a knife. But if you start to see your knife as a companion or a close friend, then you should seriously consider therapy...
Red Rock Rendezvous....Don't forget that there is a lot going on in Las Vegas in mid to late March. Following is a quick breakdown of everything that is happening:
For those folks who don't live within a days drive of an ice climbing mecca such as Ouray, CO, Bozeman, MT, or Cody, WY, they have have to get their kicks elsewhere. Here's a few videos to get your brain turning if you're itching for some ice climbing, but can't spend a day driving.
But then again, there's nothing quite like getting out in the winter to some beautiful frozen waterfalls.
Have a great weekend! Throw in some figure fours just for the heck of it!
In the American Alpine Institute Single Pitch Instructor Course, this question comes up constantly. When should I have someone back up my new belayer? When can I let them belay without a backup? And how should I back them up?
These are questions that exist throughout the climbing world. Many climbers who are not professional instructors regularly teach people to belay. So these are not simply esoteric guide questions, but are real and fundamental questions that anyone who has ever taught someone how to belay must consider.
New climbers should always have a backup of some sort. The possibility of dropping someone is very real for the rank beginner and is often still a possibility for someone with a little bit of experience.
The answer to when a person should no longer need a backup belayer is twofold. First, you should be comfortable with the fact that the person no longer needs a backup. A second, and far more important consideration, is when the individual feels comfortable enough to belay without a backup.
It is not uncommon for climbers -- especially very young climbers -- to teach their friends to belay and then to give them a hard time when they show concern about the level of responsibility they have been given. This is a recipe for disaster. One should never ignore or belittle a person's concerns about his or her belay skills. Indeed, this is exactly the type of red flag that would lead a guide to continue employing a belay backup.
Belay Backup Techniques
There are a number of individuals out there that have their hearts in the right place by providing a belay backup, but are doing it very poorly. Indeed, while putting together this blog, I found an instructional video that demonstrates poor belay backup technique.
It is unfortunately quite common for climbers to simply hold the rope to backup a belayer. This is often done in a lackadaisical manner (see photo below) and may not provide the appropriate amount of friction to adequately stop a fall if the belayer panics and lets go of the rope.
This is an example of a VERY BAD belay backup. Note that the backup
belayer is not really holding the rope and that he is not in line with the device.
It is highly unlikely that he will be able to arrest a fall if the kid on the tree lets go.
There are two simple techniques to back someone up who is on flat terrain. The first option is to give the belayer a hip belay. And the second option is to simply run the rope through a second device on the backup belayer.
Occasionally I work with kids. In such a setting I tend to add yet another piece of redundancy to the system. I employ a backup belayer as well as a knot tyer. In other words, I have a kid tie backup knots every six or eight feet. This keeps a person occupied who would otherwise be a potential crag management hazard. Admittedly, tying knots in the rope is overkill with adults and even with competent high school students. But when it comes to middle school kids, the more activities they have the better...
If the belay is running through a GriGri or a Cinch, then it might be okay to have a slightly less radical approach to your backup belay. It doesn't take much to arrest a fall in such a device.
If you are not on flat ground and a backup belayer can get below the belayer, it might be acceptable to simply hold the rope for a backup. This is what is refered to as an inline belay backup.
An Inline Belay Backup
Another option that allows you to hold the rope is to create an inline redirect. In other words, the belay rope runs from the belayers device, to a ground anchor and then back to the backup belayer. In such a situation it is super easy for a backup belayer to arrest a fall by holding the rope.
A Backup Belay Running through a Redirect
Backup belays are an important part of the safety net for the beginner climber. If you're new to climbing don't hesitate to ask for a backup. And if you have the opportunity to teach someone how to belay, always always always employ a belay backup. It could save someone's life!
--Northwest climber, Dave Burdick has created an Iphone/Ipad app that tracks Northwest weather and snowfall. The app can be purchased for $2.99 at the Apple itunes store. To read more, click here.
--Three snowboarders were rescued Monday after being stranded most of the night say foggy conditions made them disoriented. They were found safe by Idaho Mountain Rescue in an out-of-bounds area near Bogus Basin ski area early Monday morning. To read more, click here.
--Mount Rainier has volunteer opportunities for every interest. Whether you're looking for a one-day project to turn your vacation eco-friendly, or a week-long volunteer vacation, or a job to last all summer, you'll find all the details on Mount Rainier's volunteer blog. Check out the volunteer opportunities on their blog.
--Hoping to break a legal logjam that has stymied logging as well as ecosystem restoration, the U.S. Forest Service said last week that it was revising its planning rules to take more control over national forests and find more common ground between industry and conservation groups. The old rules designated certain animal species that must be protected to assure ecosystems are healthy. However, the system became the basis of numerous lawsuits that sharply cut back logging to protect habitat for fish and wildlife. To read more, click here.
--There is currently an open casting call for a TNT television show called Leverage. They are looking for "mountain climbers that have their own gear," and will pay $68 a day. This seems a little weak, but you can learn more and download the flier here.
Sierra:
--It appears that a portion of the Palisade Traverse was completed in winter. AAI guide Aiden Looehr has attempted the complete traverse, but has not yet been successful. Two Californian climbers completed the traverse between Thunderbolt and Sill. You can read their trip report and see a very cool interactive 3-D tour of their trip, here. We'll have to get Aiden back on trying to complete the whole thing!
--Speaking of computer technology, somebody on supertopo.com made a very funny video about big wall climbers in Yosemite. The film was done using the xtranormal technology which many of you have seen. Essentially someone creates dialogue for cartoon characters. In this particular case, a character lectures another character about how people should climb big walls...and it's funny. To see the video, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--Developers are trying to put the nation's largest garbage dump right next to Joshua Tree National Park. The proposed Eagle Mountain landfill would cover 3,500 acres of federal land, bordered on three sides by Joshua Tree's unique beauty, and fragile ecosystem. The proposal by developers Kaiser Ventures has been struck down by two courts. Now Kaiser Ventures is asking the Supreme Court to review the case, and the Department of the Interior has until February 25th to weigh in.Tell Secretary Ken Salazar: Don't trash Joshua Tree! Oppose the Eagle Mountain landfill project. Sign the petition before the February 25th deadline. To read more and to sign the petition, click here.
--Legislation in Congress last week was designed to block new national monuments. The 1906 Antiquities Act allows the president of the United States to declare lands of historic or environmental importance, National Monuments. New legislation will gut the law which has been used to preserve lands by both Democratic and Republican administrations. To read more, click here.
The Red Rock Escarpment on New Years Day, 2011
Photo by Jason Martin
--In related news, Congresswoman Shelley Berkley last week expressed her strong opposition to a proposal that would strip funding for the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area in Southern Nevada, a move that would force the closure of the popular recreation and tourism destination. "Red Rock is one of the most popular spots in Southern Nevada for outdoor recreation and more than a million local families and tourists from around the world visit this unique natural treasure each year. More than just a National Conservation Area, Red Rock Canyon brings valuable tourist revenue to our community at a time when we continue working to recover from the economic downturn," said Berkley. To read more, click here.
--The annual climbing festival, Red Rock Rendezvous is coming up fast. Once again, the American Alpine Institute will be present at the Las Vegas event, both for the event itself as well as to offer courses and trips before and after. To learn more, click here.
Alaska:
--A.C. Sherpa has completed the Seven Summits in less than a year! A.C. completed his ascent of Denali with the American Alpine Institute. It does appear that there is a discrepancy in his Denali time in the report that we've linked. We calculate that he summited on day 14 and that he was off the glacier on day 16. Even with this small discrepancy, it should be noted that it is absolutely amazing that he finished the Seven Summits in less than a year. To read more, click here.
Himalaya:
--Ang Rita Sherpa has won the 2011 Sir Edmund Hillary Mountain Legacy Medal. A native of Khunde, the villge where Edmund Hillary established the only hospital in Nepal's Khumbu District, Mr. Sherpa has dedicated himself to the management of remote mountainous protected areas. His focus has been on conserving ecosystems while expanding sustainable livelihoods for mountain communities. Since 1988, he has worked for The Mountain Institute (TMI), where he currently serves as Senior Program Manager for the Himalayan Program in Kathmandu, Nepal. To read more, click here.
--Fifteen Nepalese civil servants will soon abandon their desks for the slopes of Everest to improve government understanding of the challenges faced in the Himalayas. The civil servants from different ministries, including tourism, education and foreign affairs, are aged between 27 and 54 and aim to reach the top of the world’s highest peak during the main climbing season in May. To read more, click here.
--The American Alpine Club has posted a blog from John All, a professor of geology at Western Kentucky University. The professor is looking for historic pictures of the Mount Everest region, specifically Everest base-camp, to help with his studies on climate change. To read the blog, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--Three crimes were committed in Russian republic of Kabardino-Balkaria in the Mt. Elbrus region. Three tourists were shot by a masked gunmen, then a bomb was detonated by unknown persons on ski a lift and another bomb was found in a car in ski resort village. Till this time terrorists had been attacking only police and security forces, without touching tourists and other people. But their plans changed causing an outflow of tourists from the region. To read more, click here and for a climbing perspective, here.
--The body of nineteen year-old James Sizemore of Meeker was pulled from about 15 feet of snow on Monday, about 600 feet from the start of a large slide that buried him and his snowmobile Sunday afternoon in Colorado's Flat Tops Wilderness Area. About 60 searchers and trained dogs scoured the slope, which was at risk of another slide Monday, before finding the body at about 2 p.m., said Rio Blanco County Undersheriff Michael Joos. To read more, click here.
--A person was killed on Tuesday after being buried in an avalanche outside the Snowmass Ski Area in Colorado. The Pitkin County Sheriff's Office says the snow slide was first reported by the Snowmass Ski Patrol just after 4pm. To read more, click here.
--The twenty-one year-old Toronto skier who was killed when he went off a run and into trees at Lake Louise Ski Area has been identified. Christopher Lum was skiing in bounds on a well-groomed black diamond run when witnesses say he left the trail and into some trees. To read more, click here.
--On February 5th, Alain Adon and his wife Renee were climbing Glenwood Ice Falls (WI 4/5), a route near Glenwood Springs, Colorado, when Alain fell while leading, breaking his tibia and fibula, and dislocating his ankle. Nearby local climbers to aid the injured Alain, and with Renee got him down the steep approach and to the Glenwood Hospital. Unforuntately, other climbers who attempted the route later picked up the equipment used for the rescue as booty. To read more, click here.
--Seventy-seven skiers and boarders raised more than $25,000 for the Friends of the Utah Avalanche Center in a night of skiing last weekend at Snowbird Ski and Summer Resort. To read more, click here.
--There’s more than climate change triggering the collapse of the world’s glaciers. The 6.3 magnitude earthquake in New Zealand’s South Island on Tuesday apparently caused a massive iceberg, estimated at 30 – 40 tons, to shear off from Tasman Glacier and drop in Tasman Glacier Terminal Lake, at Aoraki Mount Cook National Park. In what must have been a truly spectacular glacier calving, the gigantic iceberg ripped off from the glacier within minutes of the earthquake that rocked the South Island, and crashed into the lake. Some chunks are now towering up to 164 feet above the lake. To read more, click here.
--The Adventure Journal has posted some excellent photos from turn-of-the-century climbing expeditions...and we're not talking about the turn from the 20th to the 21st century. To see the photos, click here.
--And yes, for all the girls who play with Barbie, they are finally coming out with a model that skis! To read more, click here.
--President Obama signed a Presidential Memorandum (see video below) on April 16, 2010, establishing the America’s Great Outdoors Initiative (AGO). The AGO Initiative focuses on reconnecting Americans to the outdoors and promoting community-level efforts to conserve and restore outdoor spaces. As part of the AGO Initiative, the Department of Agriculture and the Department of Interior will be joined by the Environmental Protection Agency and the White House Council on Environmental Quality in soliciting public input on how the federal government can better serve the conservation interests of communities across the country. The video below is from the president's speech on this topic last week. To read more, click here.
--It is possible that a faulty strap on a helmet lead to a skier's death in New Zealand. To read about this incident, click here.
--Petzl has recently discovered Chinese counterfeit versions of the Croll, Attache, Ascension and Rescue Ptezl products. There is a significant risk that these counterfeit products could open or otherwise fail at low loads and under normal use. To read more, click here.
--Problems have been sighted with the #5 DMM Dragon Cam. There are cracks in the aluminum axle boss. To see photos and to learn more, click here.
--Backcountry Access (BCA), the North American manufacturer of avalanche safety equipment, has announced a recall of its latest beacon, the Tracker2. BCA representatives say they have isolated certain issues that could cause a potential malfunction in the T2 units. To read more, click here.
--The United States Consumer Products Safety Commission announced a voluntary recall of 3,500 Avalung backpacks due to a suffocation hazard. The backpacks, imported from China by Black Diamond Equipment, include air intake tubing that can crack at cold temperatures. To read more, click here.
--Totem Cams sold prior to December 31st 2010 are being recalled. The color anodizing of the cams gives them a surface hardness that may affect their holding power in certain areas of polished limestone and when the cams still retain their layer of anodizing on the area in contact with the rock. To read more, click here and here.
--There have been some problems with Petzl ice tools. The adjustment system of the GRIPREST (the lower hand rest at the bottom of the handle) on the 2010 NOMIC (U21 2) and ERGO (U22) in some cases may not stay fixed in the desired size position. This issue concerns NOMIC and ERGO ice tools with serial numbers between 10208 and 10329 and all GRIPREST (U21 GR2) accessory parts. It does not concern the new QUARKs or the older versions of the NOMICs, QUARKs and QUARK ERGOs. To read more, click here.
--Did you get your vitamin D last weekend? We did. A few shots of the Baker backcountry:
Program Coordinator Katy Pfannenstein making some sweet turns:
The Bakerhorn.
Photo credit Jason Martin.
--This party did a pretty long tour last week, Chair Peak to Slot Couloir. Click here.
The top of the Slot is in pre-mogul condition, but nice there's nice powder down lower.
Photo credit Kurt Fickeisen.
--This Chair Peak video was also from last weekend. Note the bad examples of what NOT to do at the end. =)
-- Check out this slew of ski touring trip reports for last weekend; almost everywhere is the Cascades was epic.
--Mount St. Helens climbing permits are on sale now. Click here for more info.
--Report from West Coast Ice, BC: "Drove up the Duffey Lake Road yesterday and climbed Carl’s Berg. The route is in great shape, with the first half being featured WI5 with good pro, and the second half being less steep (WI4 ish), but tricky to find gear in places. Overall an excellent route in excellent conditions and it should stick around for all week!" Click here for more info.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times. It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full. Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit." And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.
--The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle. Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase. Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out. Annual passes are available for $30.
SIERRA:
--AAI Ian McEleney reports from Lee Vining: As of February 20th the ice is in and fat. Chouinard Falls and The Main Falls are in great shape. Even The Bard Harrington Wall is looking thick. Recent snow has covered up some of the anchors and added a little wallowing to the starts of the routes. Snowshoes are recommended.
For the photos, 6776 is The Main Falls and Choiunard Falls. You can see a climber on The Main Falls. 6777 is The Bard Harrington Wall:
Photo Credit Ian McEleney
-- Click here for Eastern Sierra and Tahoe ski conditions. "Deepest and lightest powder I've ever skied in 22 years of living here, had the last 4 days off and have skied everyday, lucky me".
-- Info for the 2011 Whitney area permit lottery can be found here. Lottery drawings start February 16th.
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here. Avy conditions are still considerable in some areas.
--Permits to hike to the top of Half Dome are now required seven days per week when the cables are up. This is an interim measure to increase safety along the cables while the park develops a long-term plan to manage use on the Half Dome Trail. A maximum of 400 permits will be issued each of these days (300 of these permits are available to day hikers). To read more, click here.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Conditions in the range are not currently available. But we are taking reservations for both Alaska Range Ascents and Denali trips. To learn more, click here. We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
There is no doubt that the vast majority of accidents that take place in the mountains happen due to human error. Indeed, many climbers read accident reports looking for the human error, just so that they can say to themselves, "at least I won't make that mistake."
This is a very dangerous thing to think. Any of us can make a human error mistake anytime. As a result, we should do everything in our power to keep such a mistake from happening. Things to consider include, tying knots at the end of the rope before belaying or rappelling, using an autoblock for a rappel, wearing a helmet, etc. In this blog post, we will go through the steps required for a safe and fun climb.
A Climber in Joshua Tree
Photo by Ian McEleney
1) Anchor -- Is the anchor you built for the climb adequate? If you're top-roping, are there two opposite and opposed locking carabiners at the top? Are the pieces good? If you're using bolts, are the bolts good?
Does the belayer need to be tied into a bottom anchor? The default answer is, "yes." If the belayer is not tied into a bottom anchor, you should be able to articulate why.
2) Belayer -- Is the belayer's harness on correctly? Is it doubled-back? Is the belay device threaded properly? Are you using a locking carabiner on the belay device? Is the carabiner locked? Usually a visual check is not good enough to prove that a locker is locked. It's always good to give it a quick squeeze check. Is his helmet on properly? Does he have a nut tool to remove gear if he's going to follow?
3) Climber -- Is the climber's harness on correctly? Is it doubled-back? Is the belay device threaded properly? Is he tied-in properly? Is his figure-eight dressed and neat? If he is leading, does he have the rack? Is his helmet on properly?
4) System -- Is the system closed? In other words, have you made sure that the end of the rope is either tied directly into the belayer or that there is a knot at the end? Open systems are responsible for a large percentage of climbing injuries and fatalities.
5) Commands -- Are you both on the same page as far as commands are concerned? Many people use different variations of commands and it's not a good thing to get them mixed up.
6) Multi-Pitch -- Do you have the climbing topo? Do you have food, water and clothes for the day? What is the weather forecast? Do you have a second rope in case you need to descend in an emergency? Do you have extra cordage and sling material to leave behind? Do you have a strategy?
Climbing is a game with few rules. One of those few is to make sure that you are completely prepared for the situation at hand. Go through the check-list every time. It could save somebody's life...
I took my Avalanche 1 course last year, but I never really used my new found skills the rest of that season. Turns out that a avalanche assessment is like a language - if you don't use it, you forget it.
This year, I decided to start skiing. My roommate found me a great deal on an AT set up...so I suppose I have a bit more incentive to know avalanche hazards and risks if I want to get out there. While I may not be the best skier (yet), or the best back country leader, at least now I know a good decision from a bad decision.
Fellow Program Coordinator Katy Pfannenstein and I snapped some pictures of our recent Avy 1 course. Enjoy!
Red Rock Rendezvous....Don't forget that there is a lot going on in Las Vegas in mid to late March. Following is a quick breakdown of everything that is happening:
Anyone who has spent any time on a glacier when the sun is out, will tell you how fast their skin started to tan or burn. The reflective nature of snow and ice greatly magnifies the suns power, and proper measures need to be taken to protect our skin and eyes from UV rays. Putting on sunscreen and wearing sun glasses seems like basic common sense when the sun is out, however it is not as obvious when the clouds are overhead. The fact is though, that even when the clouds are out, those damaging UV rays are still making their way through, and your chances of becoming snow blind or burning your skin is still high. On long expeditions, the chance of you encountering bad weather and having to deal with variable conditions is almost a guarantee, and as such you should come prepared.
The author, rocking out his Spectron 4 shades in the bright light on Denali
This leaves you with a bit of a dilemma, seeing as sunglasses generally are made for when the sun is out, right? Most sunglasses are just too dark to use when the clouds are out, making visibility even a bigger issue. Julbo USA realizes this issue, and as such have created glacier glasses with much higher visible light transmission. They use a lens system which range from Spectron 1 - 4, with the higher number eliminating more of the visible light. They have even created a lens system, which they call Camel, that is photochromatic - meaning it transitions between two different lens categories depending on the amount of light available.
This feature however, can price some people out of these glasses, and personally, I choose another option anyway. On long expeditions, I will bring 3 different sets of eye wear, for a variety of reason. The first, is a pair of sunglasses that have Spectron 4 lenses, for those days that are bluebird and the sun is out shining. The second pair, will have Spectron 3 lenses in it, and an anti-fog coating. I tend to find that when I'm in a white out, there is a lot more heat and moisture and my glasses will fog up. That is why it is most important to have an anti-fog coating on this pair.
The author, with his Spectron 3 glasses - preparing for when that fog rolls in.
My final pair, will be some goggles, with the highest visible light transmission possible. If I have goggles on, it is probably because the weather is so terrible and the wind is blowing so hard, that I will need to be able to see as much as possible. Smith Optics makes a great pair of lenses called the sensor mirror, which seem to increase contrast and really help with the flat light that can be found in a blizzard.
Smith goggles with the Sensor Mirror Lens.
The important thing to note, is that all of these glasses/lenses filter out 100% of UVA/UVB rays. The amount of visible light that is transmitted is a completely different story, which is why you can still remain protected while altering your lens to the current conditions. Additionally, you could very well get a pair of glasses with Spectron 3 lenses, and they would serve most all of your purposes. I choose 3 pairs of eye protection because I like to have redundancy in this system. If I, or someone else on my team, loses or breaks their glasses - there will be a back up pair. I would rather carry the extra weight of a second pair of glasses, than go snow blind.
The author, covering up his skin and rocking a different pair of shades on the summit of Denali.
Let's not forget the most important reason to carry more than one pair of sunglasses however. Sometimes it's nice to switch up your style while on the mountain!
--Ketchum resident Christopher Bridgeman, 49, died on Idaho's Bald Mountain in Sun Valley last Wednesday after colliding with a tree while skiing down an intermediate run that descends off Lower College in the center of the mountain. To read more, click here and here.
--New information has been released about a January avalanche that buried a snowmobiler in Canada's Kootenai National Forest. The incident happened on January 15th after a group of 15 snowmobilers went out on a "skills clinic" that day. To read more, click here.
--British Columbia's Whistler Blackcomb revenues increased in all categories in its first quarter with strong increases in regional skier visits, but challenges remain in attracting destination skiers, according to quarterly results released Thursday by Whistler Blackcomb Holdings Inc. The company also announced that it is on track for two million skier visits this year, and has set a record with the highest ever number of season tickets and frequency cards sold before December 31st. To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--The annual climbing festival, Red Rock Rendezvous is coming up fast. Once again, the American Alpine Institute will be present at the Las Vegas event, both for the event itself as well as to offer courses and trips before and after. To learn more, click here.
--A few popular hiking routes at Zion National Park will temporarily close to protect nesting sites of Peregrine Falcons, which are recovering from endangered species status. Cliffs that are not used as nesting sites this year will reopen for climbing in May, according to a news release from the park. To read more, click here.
--Arches National Park is on track to finish their official climbing management plan. This plan has taken a significant amount of time to develop, in part because professional climber Dean Potter elected to climb the off-limits Delicate Arch. To read more, click here.
--More than 1,200 square miles of open space, six mountain ranges, vast valleys, striking pink granite boulders and its namesake desert plant life make Joshua Tree National Park a paradise for visitors. However, every summer, smog cooked up in industrial zones and freeways 100 miles away blow into the park on sea breezes, sullying the air, ruining the views and encouraging the growth of fire-prone weeds. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
--It took one hundred people from multiple agencies to recover the body of an Orange County man who died while rappelling down the side of a waterfall in a remote section of the Cleveland National Forest in San Diego County. The body of Matthew David Pack, 24, of San Juan Capistrano, was retrieved Saturday, the day after he was discovered by a hiker passing by Mildred Falls, in the rugged wilderness near Julian. To read more, click here.
--Echo Oak has had a run of bad luck of nearly biblical proportions. Burying her face in her blackened, cracked and frostbitten fingers, she laughs and shakes her head rather than cry. It's been only three weeks since the 33-year-old Billings hair stylist survived a 200-foot fall while ice climbing. To read more, click here.
--The Vermont State Police says a New York man is in critical condition after he was found unconscious after leaving a bar near the Jay Peak ski resort. Police say that thirty-two year-old Jason Eichorst of Saratoga Springs, New York, left a bar at Jay Peak with three friends at about 5:30pm Saturday, intending to ski back to their condominium. To read more, click here.
--Christian Skalka knows better than to think that he, or anybody else, can foretell with precision when and where an avalanche will occur. But Skalka has an idea for how to make avalanche risks clear to those who want to venture into the high terrain: backcountry skiers, ice climbers, snowmobilers and others. He has developed a smart-phone application that crunches relevant data and spits out a number from 1 to 5, in ascending order of hazard. To read more, click here.
A Turn-of-the-Century Climber in a New York Fashion Week Show
--So nobody's going to mistake mountain guides anywhere, anytime, for being hip or fashionable. Even when we think we are hip or fashionable, we're usually a few years behind the curve. But this week a New York Fashion Show featured 22 turn-of-the-century climbing outfits. And get this...they called the clothing line the Half Dome Collection! To read more and to see all the outfits, click here and here.
--Hee Yong Park of Korea has won the Lead event at the UIAA Ice Climbing World Championship in Busteni, Romania. For the women, it was Italy’s Angelika Rainer who came top in Lead. Russian athletes continued their superior display in the World Cup Speed discipline, taking all top three positions in both the men’s and women’s competitions, with Pavel Gulyaev and Natalya Kulikova taking first place respectively. To read more, click here.
--Two snowboarders who triggered an avalanche in a closed area of Sunshine Village Ski Resort in Banff, Canada have been fined for trespassing. The pair crossed two marked ropes to enter the Wild West area, closed all season due to high avalanche danger, when they triggered the slide Monday afternoon.They were able to stay above the wall of snow and were not buried. To read more, click here.
--There have been a number of first ascents in Patagonia this season. To read a round-up of what's been going on, click here.
Manufacturer Recalls and Equipment Issues:
--Petzl’s GriGri2 and four pieces of equipment from Black Diamond have become the first braking devices to be certified by the UIAA and can now bear the UIAA Safety Label – the only certification for braking devices worldwide. The Black Diamond devices are: ATC, ATC-Guide, ATC-XP, ATC-Sport. To read more, click here.
--Petzl has recently discovered Chinese counterfeit versions of the Croll, Attache, Ascension and Rescue Ptezl products. There is a significant risk that these counterfeit products could open or otherwise fail at low loads and under normal use. To read more, click here.
--Problems have been sighted with the #5 DMM Dragon Cam. There are cracks in the aluminum axle boss. To see photos and to learn more, click here.
--Backcountry Access (BCA), the North American manufacturer of avalanche safety equipment, has announced a recall of its latest beacon, the Tracker2. BCA representatives say they have isolated certain issues that could cause a potential malfunction in the T2 units. To read more, click here.
--The United States Consumer Products Safety Commission announced a voluntary recall of 3,500 Avalung backpacks due to a suffocation hazard. The backpacks, imported from China by Black Diamond Equipment, include air intake tubing that can crack at cold temperatures. To read more, click here.
--Totem Cams sold prior to December 31st 2010 are being recalled. The color anodizing of the cams gives them a surface hardness that may affect their holding power in certain areas of polished limestone and when the cams still retain their layer of anodizing on the area in contact with the rock. To read more, click here and here.
--There have been some problems with Petzl ice tools. The adjustment system of the GRIPREST (the lower hand rest at the bottom of the handle) on the 2010 NOMIC (U21 2) and ERGO (U22) in some cases may not stay fixed in the desired size position. This issue concerns NOMIC and ERGO ice tools with serial numbers between 10208 and 10329 and all GRIPREST (U21 GR2) accessory parts. It does not concern the new QUARKs or the older versions of the NOMICs, QUARKs and QUARK ERGOs. To read more, click here.
--If you're driving anywhere in BC, please read about the current avalanche hazards near the highways, especially for Hwy 1.
--BellinghamWeather tweets: Not enough wind for you? Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier reporting Winds 132mph, Gusting 155 at 3pm.In case your were wondering, the winds at Camp Muir, Mt. Rainier would be a category 4 hurricane. (Cat 4 is sustained 131-155). Click here for more info. Furthermore, check out a report for someone's 100th ski decent from Camp Muir last week. Looks like he timed it just right!
--North Cascades Hwy 20 is of course closed right now. The avalanche crew is scheduled to take their assessment trip on March 1 to determine when the spring clearing can start, what equipment will be necessary and how long it will probably take. Click here for more info.
--Mount St. Helens climbing permits are on sale now. Click here for more info.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- This is for the ambitious Red Rock climber: If you're thinking about doing Cinnamon Hedgehog (a somewhat obscure route, which is not even posted in Mountain Project) click here for beta.
--The scenic loop drive now closes at 5pm. See this thread and the BLM site for more information.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times. It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full. Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit." And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.
--The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle. Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase. Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out. Annual passes are available for $30.
--Here is a link to a website dedicated to the events surrounding Joshua Tree National Park's 75th anniversary in 2011. Check it out for up-to-date news on the park and the things going on to celebrate this historic park "birthday."
SIERRA:
--Click here for a discussion about the NW face of Half Dome and clarification on how to fix lines for certain pitches with just two ropes.
-- Info for the 2011 Whitney area permit lottery can be found here. Lottery drawings start February 16th.
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here. Avy conditions are still considerable in some areas.
--Permits to hike to the top of Half Dome are now required seven days per week when the cables are up. This is an interim measure to increase safety along the cables while the park develops a long-term plan to manage use on the Half Dome Trail. A maximum of 400 permits will be issued each of these days (300 of these permits are available to day hikers). To read more, click here.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Conditions in the range are not currently available. But we are taking reservations for both Alaska Range Ascents and Denali trips. To learn more, click here. We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
For many people, the BPA scare over water bottles really started making people question how they carry water in the backcountry. Of course there is the hydration bladder, however for many climbers who spend their time in the alpine, the chance of the hose freezing is just too risky. I have seen many homemade versions of a hydration bladder which greatly minimize the chances of the hose and/or other components freezing, but at the end of the day, a bottle with an insulated carrier is the safest method of containing water.
A hydration bladder with insulated hose and cold weather valve guard.
My personal choice has very little to do with the potential health risks regarding BPA water bottles. I choose my bottle based on functionality and weight - seeing as these are two primary concerns in the alpine. Fortunately, my choice also has me protected health wise, seeing as Nalgene's Ultralight series has been BPA free from the beginning! I choose the wide-mouth 32oz. ultralight bottle for a number of reasons.
First of all, when melting snow I want an easy target to pour water into the container without spilling it - so small mouthed bottles are out. Second of all, I like to drink fast, so the wide mouth enables this. I do however, use a "splash guard," which helps me not spill all over, and also makes pouring much easier.
A water bottle with a splash guard, to help with pouring and drip free drinking.
The material the ultralight bottle is made out of is definitely more pliable than the "unbreakable" Nalgene bottles that most people use. I actually prefer the pliability of the ultralight bottle because it allows me to pack it easier, and it also seems to distribute heat better. On those cold nights on Denali, I like to boil up water and pour it into the bottle, and then throw it into my sleeping bag. For whatever reason, the "unbreakable" style of Nalgene's always seem to burn me, whereas the ultralight bottles seem to maintain just the right temperature.
Depending on the length of the climb, I will generally pack one to two 32 oz. bottles and one 16 oz. bottle. The wide-mouth, ultralight 16 oz. bottle (with the lid strap) from Nalgene seems to be the hardest one to find in stores, but it is by far the most convenient in my eyes. I really like to have a small bottle to put in the top lid of my pack, so I have quick access to water without greatly altering the weight distribution. Additionally, this makes the best alpine thermos, when combined with a lightweight neoprene cozy.
The best alpine thermos combination, a 16 oz. bottle and a neoprene cozy.
At the end of the night, as I'm enjoying a hot drink out of my 16 oz. wide-mouth ultralight Nalgene bottle with it's neoprene sleeve, and there is a nice warm 32 oz. wide-mouth bottle with a splash guard in it at the bottom of my sleeping bag, I think to myself, "Man, I wonder if I put enough product placement in this blog - maybe they should pay me?"
I don't work for Nalgene, but this is just the system that works for me. Please, feel free to share your hydration system in the alpine with us!
Climbing, skiing and mountaineering are dangerous sports. When you undertake an outdoor, backcountry, or an alpine adventure without a guide, you assume total responsibility for your decisions and wellbeing. Conditions in the mountains are constantly changing, and no guidebook or computer web blog can take the place of solid training and experience. Though this site features descriptions of roads, trails, climbing routes, and other natural features, you cannot assume that because something is described here that it has not changed since last observed or that it will be safe for you or your party.
AAI assumes no responsibility or liability for your use of the information presented in this blog. With regard to all backcountry travel and climbing, you must make your own assessments and decisions, and you assume all risks in applying them.
