Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 3/31/11

Northwest:

--Riley McCarthy was caught in an avalanche with two friends as they ventured out of bounds at the Stevens Pass Ski Area.  Riley took a slightly different path then his friends, striking a tree and being partially buried.  His friends were able to partially dig him out, however when they found him he was not breathing. McCarthy was a University of Washington Sophomore, and is the fourth death in the Cascades avalanche season. To read more, click here.

--It's camera footage that captures the deathly darkness that ends the lives of other avalanche victims. But for Oregon resident Chris Bilbao, those images recorded on a chest camera during a ski plunge down a mountain in British Columbia are a graphic reminder of how fortunate he is to be alive. The American was with a group of friends plowing through a bowl of fresh powder in the Monashee Mountains, east of Kamloops, when a snow slide struck. Bilbao shouted out several "avalanche" warnings as the snow began to slide. To read more, click here.  To see the video, click here.

Cullen Alasdair Turner

Photo by Alasdair Turner

--AAI Senior Guide Alasdair Turner and his wife had a bouncy baby boy on Sunday, March 13th. The new addition to the Turner and the AAI family is named Cullen Alasdair Turner.

Sierra:

--To save the endangered Big Horn Sheep in the Eastern Sierra some feel the Department of Fish and Game has gone to inhumane lengths to kill Mountain Lions before they kill sheep. Groups and citizens have accused Fish and Game of illegal and inhumane treatment of lions. In response, Fish and Game will reportedly come up with new protocols in their destruction of lions.To read more, click here.

--A woman from Saugus snowboarding at Mammoth Mountain on Friday had spent the day on the hill with her husband and friend. In late afternoon, she decided to make one last run. At the bottom of Chair 2 she ran into a Snowcat and suffered major injuries. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--Seven people were caught in a massive avalanche on Horseshoe Mountain in Utah over the weekend.  The thought is that the avalanche was triggered when three men were digging a snow pit to test snow stability.  Rescue crews were unable to fly into the area, and were required to travel 15 miles in the backcountry to reach the victims.  Ten hours after the avalanche, six of the individuals caught in the avalanche were reunited with friends and family, with one perishing in the accident.  To read more, click here and here watch the video below.



--The Supreme Court decided on Monday not to take up a dispute over a land transfer involving the federal government that could lead to the construction in California of the nation's largest landfill. The proposed transfer, involving land near Joshua Tree National Park, is between Kaiser Ventures LLC and its subsidiary, Mine Reclamation Corporation, on one side and the Bureau of Land Management on the other. To read more, click here.

Alaska:

--Jason Stuckey and Cascades local John Frieh grabbed the second winter ascent of Mount Huntington, via the West Face Couloir.  The route was first climbed in winter in 2007 by fellow locals Colin Haley and Jed Brown.  Stuckey and Frieh climbed the route in 23 hours, and were in and out of the range in a record 48 hours.  Truly a "smash and grab" operation.  To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Parks Canada officials rescued two ice climbers Sunday night who were stranded for several hours on the Weeping Wall off the Icefields Parkway. Brian Webster, a visitor safety specialist, said the climbers from Edmonton cut their rope in half after it became stuck during their rappel. They then tied the two pieces of rope together, creating a knot in the rope that the first climber on the descent could not bypass. To read more, click here.

-- Eight skiers and snowboarders who took the Minturn Mile backcountry route off Vail Mountain Monday ended up stranded overnight before Vail Mountain Rescue teams were able to get them down Wednesday. The group finally got off the mountain around 2 pm. Tuesday, shaken from the experience of spending the night in the backcountry with nothing more than standard ski gear and some flashlights.To read more, click here.

--A 65-year-old skier from La Crescent, Minnesota, who hit a chair lift tower at Welch Village Ski Area on March 16th died of a heart attack, perhaps even before he hit the tower, the Goodhue County medical examiner said on Monday. To read more, click here.

--Alain Robert is more likely known by his nickname, the "French Spiderman."  He has made a name for himself by free-soloing many tall buildings, often being arrested immediately after topping out.  This time, he made arrangements with the owner to climb the tallest building in the world.  Alain successfully climbed the 2,717 foot Burj Khalifa in just over six hours.  To read more, click here.

--Climber Josh Wharton is known for being a super hardman in the mountains...but he's also a bit of a a consisour of history.  The following video of him retrieving Jeff Lowe's backpack from the North Face of the Eiger -- left twenty years ago -- and returning it to him is very cool:


Jeff Lowe's Pack Retrieved from Eiger North Face from Jeff Lowe on Vimeo.

--The American Alpine Club is embarking on a new five-year strategic plan that calls for significant and exciting program changes. The 109-year-old club is becoming a community-driven organization that acts locally to unite climbers through community events, conservation projects, mentorship and other programs.  To accomplish these ends, the AAC seeks enthusiastic climbers to build a sustainable support system for members, starting with local volunteers and Club activists. Two positions currently open are Community Programs Director and Regional Coordinator (Northeast Region). To read more, click here and here.

Manufacturer Recalls and Equipment Issues:

--Petzl has recently discovered Chinese counterfeit versions of the Croll, Attache, Ascension and Rescue Ptezl products. There is a significant risk that these counterfeit products could open or otherwise fail at low loads and under normal use.  To read more, click here and here.

--Problems have been sighted with the #5 DMM Dragon Cam.  There are cracks in the aluminum axle boss.  To see photos and to learn more, click here.

Conditions Report - March 30, 2011

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.


RED ROCK CANYON:

--Check out this recent thread on Red Rock Canyon weather. Looks like things are clearing up and this week will give temps in the upper 70's during the day.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:


--Check out this trip report for Joshua Tree. Lovely weather, good sunsets, a bit cold, but good climbing.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times.  It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full.  Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit."  And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.

--The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle.  Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase.  Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out.  Annual passes are available for $30.

SIERRA:

--Major storms have ripped through Yosemite and the Sierra. Click this links for more information on the power outages.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.

--Permits to hike to the top of Half Dome are now required seven days per week when the cables are up. This is an interim measure to increase safety along the cables while the park develops a long-term plan to manage use on the Half Dome Trail.  A maximum of 400 permits will be issued each of these days (300 of these permits are available to day hikers).  To read more, click here.

ALASKA RANGE:

--This trip report was from a couple of weeks ago, but is worth posting. Check out the second ascent of Mt Huntington via the West Face Couloir.

--Conditions in the range are not currently available.  But we are taking reservations for both Alaska Range Ascents and Denali trips.  To learn more, click here.  We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

Coiling a Rope

Coiling a rope is both a skill and an art. First, it's a skill because no matter how you coil the rope, you should be proficient and it should be easy to uncoil the rope for use. Second, it's an art, because each of us have our own little tricks that we throw into coiling that make a given coil our own.

Mike Barter, the prolific climbing instructional video-maker, has a handful of different rope coiling techniques posted on his youtube channel. The one thing that he neglects to say though, is that before you start in any rope coiling endeavor, you should flake the rope. This first video of an individual doing a butterfly coil in his hand is a great example of someone who skipped the flaking part of the process.



Butterfly coils -- or lap coils, if that's what you prefer -- can be bulky and difficult to deal with when they are in your hand, particularly if you have small hands. In the next video, we will have the opportunity to see the same type of system done over the neck.

Mike calls coiling over the neck the Brit Style, or something like that. I might refer to this instead as simply a butterfly coil over the neck... And I have to say that this is also the way that most American guides coil their ropes. It's very fast and it's very easy once you've put in a bit of practice. The biggest downside is when you have a heavy and wet rope from glacier travel. When that happens it's never fun to coil over your neck...



In each of the preceding videos, it would be easy to convert the ropes, the way that the climbers coiled them, into backpacks. You must simply wrap the two ends of the rope over your shoulders, wrap them around your waist -- capturing the rope behind you -- and then tie them together in front of you. Generally a square knot tends to be the easiest and quickest knot to tie in that position that won't come undone.

Some climbers elect to butterfly a rope as a single strand. This style, sometimes referred to as a French coil, is nice for quick use of the rope. Many will do this when they are sport climbing because if you're good, the rope doesn't necessarily need to be flaked.

In the third video, Mike demonstrates the mountaineers coil. This particular style can be very nice for traveling with a rope. But where it is not nice is in uncoiling it. If you coil or store your rope in this particular fashion, it's very important to remember to uncoil the rope one strand at a time, otherwise things will get very messy.



Unless you always put your rope into a rope bag, coiling is a very important part of climbing. As I say on this blog a lot, practice makes perfect!

--Jason D. Martin

Quick Belay Techniques

In the world of climbing, it's not at all uncommon for one climber to be stronger and more experienced than his or her partner. In such a situation, many climbers elect to move together on easier terrain. In some cases, teams with this kind of make-up even choose to simul-climb. If there is a significant difference in strength and skill level, then moving together and simul-climbing should probably be avoided.

Instead of "simuling," the better option would be for the stronger climber to scramble up easier terrain in short 20 to 50 foot pitches and then situate himself in a good stance or seated position. Once he's stable, he could then employ a quick belay technique to bring up his partner.

The author uses a quick munter-hitch belay on Mount Russell in the High Sierra
Photo from the Jason Martin Collection

Before employing a belay technique, it is incredibly important that the climber is in a very solid stance or seated position. If the position isn't safe and there is the possibility that the climber could be pulled from his position, then he should place a piece of gear and clip into it. If that's not enough and there is still danger, then this is not a quick belay situation and a true SERENE/ERNEST anchor must be built.

There are a number of belay techniques that may be used from a stance. Following is a quick breakdown of each of them in order of strength:

Hand Belay
It should be obvious to everyone that a hand belay is very weak. The hand belay should only be used to assist someone through an easy move. It should never really be thought of as something that could arrest a real fall and it should never be used to protect someone in a truly exposed area. That said, a simple hand belay can occasionally help a someone step up onto something tall or can create confidence in a climber as they step over an obstacle.
Carabiner Pinch
A carabiner pinch is a simple and quick belay wherein a carabiner is clipped to your harness or an anchor. The rope goes from the climber through the carabiner and is then redirected back toward the climber. The belayer can simply pinch the rope on either side of the carabiner to create more friction.

Clearly, this too is a very weak belay technique. As with a hand belay, this should only be used for minor assistance on terrain where there are little consequences to a fall.
Though many guides use the carabiner pinch for quick and simple belays, I personally believe that it is just as effective to turn the carabiner pinch into a munter-hitch. Such an adjustment requires almost no additional time, but adds a great deal more security.
Shoulder Belay
A shoulder belay is a very quick body belay. In this technique, the belayer turns his body to the side so that his profile is facing the cliff. If his right shoulder is oriented toward the drop, then the rope from the climber will run up from the edge, through his right hand, across his back, over his shoulder and into his left hand. The belay will then look a lot like a hip belay, but from a standing position, over the shoulder.

To make this technique work properly, the climber strand should be at approximately the same angle as the leg closest to the edge. Ideally, this strand parallels that leg.
The biggest problem with this technique is that the center of gravity is really high. If the leg is not parallel with the strand going to the climber, it's easy to get pulled out of position.

Following is a short video that was made during a Canadian guides course in 1996 which shows a guide trainer instructing junior guides on the use of this technique:


Hip Belay
The hip belay is perhaps one of the oldest belay techniques and has been used effectively in a variety of circumstances. Due to it's limitations, however, most modern climbers only use this technique on terrain up to low fifth class.

This is a dramatic representation of a breaking position on the left and a belayer getting pulled out of his seat on the right. Any anchor piece should be on the same side of the belayer's body as the climber strand.

To implement a hip belay, the climber must first find a good seat. Ideally there will be some kind of feature to place one's feet on in order to create more stability. Once in position, the belayer puts a wrap of rope around his waist and then uses the "pull pinch slide" belay technique to bring in rope. If the climber falls, then the belayer will wrap the rope more radically around his body.

If the belay seat is not solid, the belayer may elect to put in a piece to back himself up. If he does this, then the piece should be on the same side as the end of the rope running to the climber. This will keep the belayer from getting twisted if the climber falls.
Munter-Hitch

An extremely quick and effective technique is to place a carabiner on the belay loop and tie a munter-hitch into it. From a good stance or a seat, this is an incredibly useful means of creating a quick belay. The trick though, is to be able to build the munter-hitch in the carabiner.
Once you are able to easily build a munter-hitch on a carabiner, this particular technique can be faster and more secure then either a shoulder belay or a hip belay. It can also be easier to get it into place due to the fact that backpacks often hinder the other body belay styles.

Quick belays are an incredibly important part of a climber's arsenal. However, they will really only be quick and effective with practice. Once each of these are dialed, then belaying a second on easier terrain becomes far more quick and efficient.

--Jason D. Martin

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!

Climbing: it's about sending, it's about falling.  These two videos will get you stoked to start the spring off right! 

Here's a handy conversion scale to know how hard she is sending:

7b+ = 12c, 8a = 13a, 8a+ = 13c



What goes up, must go down.  Please don't show my mom this next video! 



Happy Spring!

--Katy Pfannenstein
Program Coordinator

The Bowline

The Canadian Guide Mike Barter is getting funnier and more creative with every video he makes. In one of his most recent videos, he covered the bowline and the bowline on a bite. And he did it all dressed like a cowboy...

Perhaps the best line of this video is when he says that a bowline is "strong enough to pull a snowboarder off his sister."



There are a couple of things that I'd like to add to this excellent video.

In addition to what Mike demonstrated, we are now teaching the double-bowline in the curriculum for the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course. This knot is quite a bit stronger than a single bowline and not as easily untied due to cyclic loading.

Mike repeatedly states that he doesn't want to see people tie-in with a bowline. You may be aware that there is a trend in the sport climbing community wherein people tie in with a double-bowline. There are two big problems with this. The first is that many climbers don't use this technique to tie-in and will not be able to check their partner adequately. And second, if there is a problem in the knot, it is far more likely to fail than a figure-eight follow-through.

There have been a few high-profile accidents with people using a double-bowline for their tie-in. These accidents could have been avoided if the individuals simply used the industry standard figure-eight and checked each other out...

The bowline is a very important knot. And as Mike said in the video, it could even be considered a king of the knots. But when all is said and done, it really should only be used for anchoring to boulders and trees.

--Jason D. Martin

Conditions Report - March 23, 2011

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.



RED ROCK CANYON:

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:


--Check out this thread on the new Joshua Tree guidebook, listing over 2,600 routes.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times.  It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full.  Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit."  And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.

--The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle.  Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase.  Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out.  Annual passes are available for $30.

SIERRA:

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.

--Permits to hike to the top of Half Dome are now required seven days per week when the cables are up. This is an interim measure to increase safety along the cables while the park develops a long-term plan to manage use on the Half Dome Trail.  A maximum of 400 permits will be issued each of these days (300 of these permits are available to day hikers).  To read more, click here.

ALASKA RANGE:

--Conditions in the range are not currently available.  But we are taking reservations for both Alaska Range Ascents and Denali trips.  To learn more, click here.  We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

Rappelling Rope Climbing Trick

One of my favorite "rope tricks" is to quickly and easily switch a rappel set-up into a rope climbing system. Indeed, I've been able to amaze a number of people with the simplicity of this set-up. One of our guides even referred to this technique as being "like magic" because it almost seems like a slight of hand it's so quick.

To easily switch from a rappel into rope climbing, you will need an autoblocking device from which you will rappel on an extension. This will require you to girth-hitch a sling through the tie-in point on your harness. Clip a locking carabiner to this extension and then run your rope through your autoblocking device the way you would normally rappel. The actual device will then be at chest or face height.

Extended rappels are extremely useful for a variety of reasons. They make it less likely that any clothing will get caught in the device, they ensure that your autoblock back-up is completely incapable of touching the the device, and they allow for tricks like the one described here.

To convert your rappel device into a rope climbing device, simply clip a locking carbiner to the "fin" of the autblocking device. From there, you will have to stand up on a small ledge in order to clip the fin to your belay loop. Once this is clipped, the device will autolock. If you pull rope through the device to climb up, it will automatically lock off.

In this picture, the sling was formerly the extension.
Photo by Zeph Locke

If you are on lower-angled terrain and are able to climb up the face, then you will not need to do anything more than to pull the rope through the device as a self-belay. However, if you are on steeper terrain, you may be required to add a foot prussik. This should be added to the rope above the device.

In this photo the sling is used for a foot prussik to assist in climbing the rope.
Photo by Zeph Locke

Once you have climbed back up the rope for whatever reason you needed to climb back up the rope, then you can easily revert the system back into a rappel by unclipping the device from the fin. Once you've unclipped this, your system will once again look like an extended rappel and you will be able to descend.

While rope tricks are rope tricks, sometimes they can be valuable. I have often used this particular trick to release a stuck rappel rope or do a variety of other things on the cliff. The more rope tricks that you know, the more tools that you have in your toolbox...and a big toolbox of tricks and techniques is arguably the best way to be ready for anything...!

--Jason D. Martin

A Quiver of Ice Axes

By definition, as an alpinist, I encounter extremely varied terrain and conditions during my mountain adventures.  Having a variety of gear allows me to match my equipment to the climb I'm attempting, so I can achieve maximum efficiency and effectiveness.  Sometimes this means buying two of something that seemingly perform the same task, however may have slightly different specifications or purposes.

I'm sure many of you acquire multiple sleeping bags, harnesses, and other equipment, with the idea that "a friend could borrow it" if need be.  Lately, I have been trying to denounce this idea, and only have multiples of the same item if they truly serve a specific function that I find valuable.  This led me to think of the perfect quiver of ice axes, that would serve nearly every climb I would embark on.

Grivel Air Tech Racing Ice Axe

GENERAL MOUNTAINEERING AXE: This ice axe serves as your "everyday axe", and should be sized for comfort.  I'm 5' 10" and I prefer this axe to be around 55-60cm, which allows me to chop steps comfortably if need be.  It can or cannot have a slight bend in the head, but should have an adze and a positive clearance pick - suitable for self arrest.  This axe will serve the purpose of self-arrest tool, anchor, step-chopper, and balance tool, to name a few.  It will be ideal for 3-day Baker Climbs or a 21-day Denali West Buttress Expedition.  This is your workhorse axe, a classic piolet.

Camp Corsa - the World's lightest ice axe

ULTRA-LIGHTWEIGHT AXE: This ice axe serves as your skiing, "just in case," and "I'm only going to be on a glacier for 400 feet but still want something for self-arrest," ice axe.  It should be short, no longer than 50 cm, and is really for those short glacier jaunts or quick couloir climbs.  If you try and chop steps with it for an extended period of time, you'll probably blow out your shoulder or bend the adze.  It probably isn't that durable, but it doesn't need to be; the lighter the better is what you are going for here.  A great axe for approaching something like the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart, or while doing some extreme skiing in the backcountry.

Black Diamond Venoms: The adze has a positive clearance pick and the hammer has a recurve pick.

A PAIR OF HYBRID ICE AXES/TOOLS:  Are you going to be approaching on a glacier, and then climbing a 50-70 degree alpine ridge?  Will there be short sections of steep ice, or will you have to climb moderate rock with your tools?  If so, these are an excellent choice which bridge the gap between true ice tools and glacier axes.  Having the recurve pick is essential when it comes to feeling secure on steep terrain, however when you strap one tool on your pack and carry the other, the positive curve pick provides confidence in the self arrest position.  Sometimes if things get really steep, you can match this tool with an actual ice tool.  A pair of these tools will be extremely efficient and comfortable during a climb of the North Ridge of Mt. Baker, or Denali's West Rib.

Black Diamond Cobra Ice Tools - One with an adze, the other with a hammer

A PAIR OF WATER ICE/DIFFICULT ALPINE TOOLS:  These tools are made for steep water ice and challenging mixed alpine lines.  If climbing pure water ice, they should have two hammers; if set up for the alpine, one adze and one hammer works well.  Having the tools made out of carbon fiber is nice because it does not conduct heat as much, however they are less responsive than aluminum tools.  Keep these picks sharp!  You'll be using them for the most technical terrain you encounter, like Artesonraju in Peru, and the Ice Park in Ouray, CO.

If competition mixed climbing is up your alley then you'll likely need another pair of tools, however for your average alpinist this quiver should serve all their needs.  All tallied up, four significantly different types of climbing can be efficiently covered by 6 ice axes/tools total.  You can obviously mix and match if needed, and personal preference/ability could easily add or subtract tools from this list.

I would love to hear what your perfect quiver of ice tools looks like, and what you actually currently have.  Please leave us comments!

--Andrew Yasso
Program Coordinator

March and April Climbing Events

Red Rock Rendezvous....Don't forget that there is a lot going on in Las Vegas in mid to late March. Following is a quick breakdown of everything that is happening:

• March 18-20 -- Red Rock Rendezvous
• March 21-24 -- Basic Rock Camp
• March 22-25 -- Learn to Lead: An Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership 

-- March 20 -- Vancouver, BC -- Climbers Unite, $1- 1 Climb for Japan Series

-- March 26 -- San Marcos, TX -- Texas State Flash Fest Bouldering Comp

-- March 30 -- Bellevue, WA -- Marmot Mountain Works NW Ice Climbing Slide Show

-- April 8 -- Sunnyvale, CA -- Planet Granite Climbing Comp

-- April 15 -- Seattle, WA -- NWAC Snowball Fundraiser  

-- April 15 - 17 -- Shenandoah, VA -- Shenandoah Rockfest

--April 18 -- Ellensburg, WA -- Ropeless Rodeo, Central WA University Comp

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!

Dreams DO Come True!

Mark Allen and Graham Zimmerman made the First Ascent of 4600-foot Alpine Big Wall in Alaska.   These guys, in the eyes of AAI, are kind of a big deal and poster children for AAI.  Mark Allen, now an IFMGA Guide, worked for AAI.  He instructed Graham Zimmerman through our AMTL Parts 1 and 2, where Graham got his start.  Graham is now a sponsored climber. 

These two decided to team up as climbing partners to tackle the first ascent up the SE Buttress on Mount Bradley.  This route contains 4600 feet, 29 pitches of sustained mixed climbing, 19 being M5 or WI 4 or harder.  After 66.5 hours, including three on route bivys, Vitalogy (Alaska grade V, M6+, WI5 5.9R A1), was officially open for business. 



Mark Allen and Graham Zimmerman make first ascent of 4600-foot alpine big wall in Alaska from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Needless to say, dreams come true.  Make your dreams a reality today! 

--Katy Pfannenstein
Program Coordinator

What Trip is Right For Me?

This may sound extremely cheesy, but the most enjoyable part of my day is when I get a phone call from a potential student who asks me, "what trip is right for me?"  As a former AAI student myself, I remember how exciting it was flipping through the catalog and looking on the website at all the potential courses I could take.  The trouble was, I was so new to the climbing scene I had no idea where I should start!  Ultimately, I ended up calling AAI and speaking with a program coordinator, because I needed advice.  Sitting in the role that I am now in, I thoroughly enjoy speaking with new climbers, and finding which program will best suit their goals and desires.

When you call or email us, we will probably respond to your questions with a number of our own.  Here are some common questions I ask:

• What is your backcountry camping experience?  
• Have you been on a glacier before? 
• Do you lead climb, and if so at what level - 5.6, 5.8, 5.10?
• Do you lead sport or traditional climbs?
• Have you done any winter climbing?
• What is your skiing ability?
• What are your climbing goals for the future?

The final question there, regarding goals, is honestly the most useful in advising people towards the right program.  All of your past experience is helpful in establishing a baseline in where you are at, but knowing where you want to go will shape the response your program coordinator will provide you.

If you have moderate experience on glaciers, but really want to get into climbing and leading alpine ice, then the Alpine Ice course would be right for you.  If you really want to take multi-day ski tours in the backcountry, without access to an avalanche forecast, then AIARE Level 1 and Level 2 avalanche courses would be right up your alley.  If becoming a mountain guide is your next career choice, then I would encourage you to look at our extensive Mountaineering Instructor Professional Training program.  And if you want to just try some rock climbing for the first time ever, then going out with a guide in Red Rock might be the ticket.

When you call, the clearer your goals are in your head, the more you can accurately describe them to us, and the better we can steer you towards the right course.  Our goal is to give you the training to safely and successfully meet your goals, in the most logical and exciting way as possible.  If for some reason your nervous to call, just image your program coordinator looks like the picture below, and hopefully it will take the edge off!

An AAI Program Coordinator (who shall remain nameless), enthusiastically enjoying a conversation with a potential student.

--Andrew Yasso
Program Coordinator

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 3/17/11

Northwest:

--A national climbing center could be coming to the Stawamus Chief in Squamish. The Vancouver-based Kingswood Group said Tuesday it wants to build a climbing centre as the heart of a mixed-use development beneath the 700-metre granite monolith that forms the gateway to Canada's Squamish. Kingswood, a real-estate developer, said the center on Highway 99 would feature an indoor climbing wall, offices for climbing outfits, research and education facilities and a base camp for climbers and guides. To read more, click here.

--A large avalanche was reported on the periphery of Mount Hood Meadows and the slide did make its way into the ski area.  Sometime in the morning of March 10, 2011 prior to 0815 a large avalanche ran through the Clark side of Heather Canyon.  The slide scoured the sides of the drainage, deposited a significant amount of debris in the gut which extended well past the confluence of the Clark/Heather drainages and the bottom terminal of the Heather Chair.  To read more, click here.

Absolutely massive avalanche wall, over 12 feet tall

--A 19-year-old Ellensburg, WA woman was rescued on Saturday, after sliding 40 feet off a ledge into a creek.  She suffered injuries to her right leg, right arm, and ribs.  Her friends acted quickly in pulling her out of a creek and building a fire to keep her warm.  When rescuers arrived, they used ropes to bring her up out of the creek and then a stretcher to carry her out.  To read more, click here.

--Bradley Gardner, 24, was last seen Wednesday, when he told friends he planned on skiing in the Chippewa Ridge and Basin area.  The search continues for this Big Sky skier, and deep snow, snow showers, and strong winds have limited the use of aircraft due to lack of visibility.  The search continues in both areas, with people on snowshoes, skis, and snowmobiles looking for Bradley.  To read more, click here.

--A slight increase in climbing fees has been approved for Mount Rainier National Park.  Fees for the upcoming climbing year will increase from $30 to $43 for an annual pass. A new addition to the climber permit, is a "youth pass," which allows climbers 24 and under to purchase a pass for $30.  The increase in fees will allows the Park to compensate for an ever growing number of people wanting to climb the mountain, as well as to provide additional training for the climbing rangers.  To read more, click here.



Sierra:

--Weekend Permits for the month of May and June to hike the iconic Half Dome sold out in a record five minutes last week.  Weekday permits for that same time frame were gone in 23 minutes.  Park officials predict that when the next batch of permits go on sale on April 1, they will likely be gone in two to three minutes.  To read more, click here.

Overcrowding on Half Dome's cables

 Desert Southwest:
 
--As Brian Carrico lay nearly freezing to death in a three-foot snowdrift on Mount San Jacinto, he said, he called on his faith to help him survive. Two weeks after his rescue near the summit above the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, Carrico, 57, a chiropractor who runs a practice in Riverside and Orange County, has a new respect for the fragility of life and the elements of nature. To read more, click here.


----Louis Cicotello, a 70-year-old native of Colorado has died in a 100 foot fall in a remote Utah Canyon.  His 57 year old brother, David Cicotello, was with him, and was left stranded on a small ledge after Louis fell off. David was later rescued by helicopter and treated for minor injuries and dehydration.  Louis was a climber of thirty years, an artist and professor emeritus at the University of Colorado in Colorado Springs.  To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--A Georgia man charged with child abuse for punching a 14-year-old girl in the face at Colorado's Beaver Creek Ski Area in December has pleaded guilty to third-degree assault, a Class 1 misdemeanor, the Vail Daily said.  To read more, click here.


--In celebration of International Women's Day last week, the UK Guardian selected the 100 most inspirational women.  The list included names like Lady Gaga and Oprah, but it also included the renowned climber, author and biochemist Arlene Blum. To read more, click here.

--In the middle of all the uprising in the Middle East, three climbers ventured to Jordan to make a first ascent of their aptly named line, Uprising.  This 700 foot 5.11b was established in the Wadi Rum area, first discovered by outsiders in 1984.  The sandstone in the area has no matrix, meaning the rock is extremely unpredictable and ranges from bomber to complete choss.  To read about their trip and the route itself, click here.


--The National Parks Conservation Association has provided an easy way to contact your legislators about the potential Government Shutdown, and the closure of our National Parks.  With the budget yet to be approved, Congress may look to make cuts in the National Park Budget.  To share your opinion on this, and to contact your legislators, please click here.

--A river in New Hampshire just broke off its relationship with the Winter ice.  While this doesn't quite seem like news, it does qualify as a pretty cool event.  Science geeks will enjoy this video, perhaps just as much as the people who set up the camera and filmed it.  Viewer beware, there is a bit of NSFW language at the beginning of the video.  It takes a while to see what's going on, but the anticipation is exhilarating!



--A 32-year-old skier was rescued after he was caught in an avalanche in Granite Canyon in Grand Teton National Park.  After setting off a soft-slab avalanche, Benjamin Shortledge was carried 400 feet down slope and sustained injuries which required evacuation.  His friend's climbed to a nearby saddle where they were able to get cell service and initiate rescue.  To read more, click here.  

--An Austrian skier has written a letter to Black Diamond regarding his survival of an avalanche that left him and his friend fully buried.  The skier was wearing an Avalung at the time of his burial, which may or may not have contributed to his successful and relatively benign rescue.  To read his letter, click here.

--Deadline dates for many American Alpine Club grants are quickly coming up.  To see a list of the potential grants you can apply for and their respective deadlines, click here.


Manufacturer Recalls and Equipment Issues:

--Petzl has recently discovered Chinese counterfeit versions of the Croll, Attache, Ascension and Rescue Ptezl products. There is a significant risk that these counterfeit products could open or otherwise fail at low loads and under normal use.  To read more, click here and here.

--Problems have been sighted with the #5 DMM Dragon Cam.  There are cracks in the aluminum axle boss.  To see photos and to learn more, click here.

Conditions Report - March 16, 2011

NORTHWEST:

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.

-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

--Trip Report for Lilloot can be found here.


RED ROCK CANYON:

--Rain called for earlier this week, but sunnier as the week progresses; highs in the 70s.


--Check out this recent trip report for a Mt. Wilson attempt via Pink Tornado (5.9+).

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:


--Check out this thread on the new Joshua Tree guidebook, listing over 2,600 routes.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times.  It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full.  Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit."  And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.

--The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle.  Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase.  Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out.  Annual passes are available for $30.

SIERRA:

--A nice trip report for Mt. Sill can be found here.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.

--Permits to hike to the top of Half Dome are now required seven days per week when the cables are up. This is an interim measure to increase safety along the cables while the park develops a long-term plan to manage use on the Half Dome Trail.  A maximum of 400 permits will be issued each of these days (300 of these permits are available to day hikers).  To read more, click here.

ALASKA RANGE:

--Conditions in the range are not currently available.  But we are taking reservations for both Alaska Range Ascents and Denali trips.  To learn more, click here.  We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.

ALPS:

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

Ice Climbing in the Canadian Rockies

A few weeks ago I was blessed enough to climb with AAI guide Kurt Hicks, who is an AMGA certified Rock Guide and an Alpine Guide Aspirant.  We headed up to the Canadian Rockies so that Kurt could take his 2-day Ice Instructor Assessment, a new portion of the Alpine Guide certification.  Kurt and I spent a few days climbing before his assessment so that he would style the evaluation, and style it he did!  Here are some photos from the stellar ice climbing that is to be had in the Canadian Rockies!
 

Approach notes to the weeping wall: harness and crampons on at the car, walk across the road.  Ridiculous!

Kurt leading up the first pitch.

The author following on pitch 1.

The Author traversing out to the steep stuff.

Kurt heading up pitch 1 of Professor Falls.

The author, happily following a stellar pitch.

The author, doing his share of the leading on the climb.

Kurt on assessment day, looking up the steep WI4+ pitch on Louise Falls.

Kurt styling it through the crux, making it look easy.

  Hopefully some of these photos inspire you to get out this season or next, and climb some ice!  We climb in many world class locations, including Ouray, CO and Lee Vining, CA.  Come join us!

--Andrew Yasso

Program Coordinator

Definitions for Beginners: Top-Rope vs. Lead vs. Bouldering vs. Free Solo

There is a legitimate concern that some have put forward concerning this blog. Occasionally, I get a little bit too techy and forget that climbers with a multitude of skill levels read these articles. It's good to step back a little bit sometimes and make sure that everyone is on board with some of the basics.

There are four terms that we use quite often on this blog.  First, the term top-rope.  Second, the term lead, as in lead-climber. Third, the term bouldering.  And fourth, the term free-soloing.  Following is a breakdown of these terms and their definitions.

Top-Rope Climber

A top-rope climber is a person who has a rope running from his or her harness, up to an anchor at the top of a cliff and then back down to a belayer at the base.  This is a standard technique, and it is the technique regularly used for beginning level climbers and at rock gyms.

A Climber Belays another Climber on Top-Rope in Joshua Tree National Park

Photo by Jason Martin

The value of a top-rope is that it is highly unlikely that a climber will fall very far.  The rope can be somewhat tight if the climber is a beginner or somewhat loose if he or she is comfortable.

Lead Climber

In essence, the lead climber is the guy that "gets the rope up there." A belayer pays out rope to a person as he climbs up.  The leader places rock protection as he goes and clips his rope to it.  He then continues climbing above the protection.  Should the leader fall ten feet above his last piece of protection, he will fall past his gear, and the belayer will catch him after he has fallen twenty feet.  The rope stretches so that the impact is not as great on the leader.

A Leader Working His Way Up a Climb

The act of falling on lead can be very safe, or quite dangerous.  It all depends on whether the fall is "clean" or not.  A clean fall means that there is nothing for the leader to hit.  A fall above a ledge or a protrusion could lead to serious injury.

Leading can be done in a very responsible way that limits one's exposure to danger.  But it does take a lot of training and practice to bring one's abilities to such a level where he or she has a good understanding of what kind of gear placements will hold a fall and what kind will not.


Bouldering

Bouldering is one of the fastest growing types of climbing.  In this, a climber does not use a rope, but also does not climb more than a few feet off the ground.  A boulderer is focused on making a handful of hard moves and will often work on those moves for a long period of time before completing a sequence.

Most boulderers use a pad or commercial bouldering mattress to protect themselves from ground-falls.  Every climber who falls bouldering hits a mat or the ground, as such there is some danger involved in the sport. 

Free Soloing

Often confused with free climbing, (which is simply climbing without the use of direct aid, but with a rope) free soloing is the art of climbing a route without a rope. 

Obviously free soloing is the most dangerous type of climbing that there is.  If an individual falls in this situation, survival is highly unlikely.

Climbing is a varied sport with many different aspects to it.  Not every aspect is for every person.  Ultimately, the amount of risk that you choose to engage in within the sport is completely up to you. Indeed, the level of accomplishment you feel engaging in any kind of climbing is also completely personal.

--Jason D. Martin

 

March and April Climbing Events

Red Rock Rendezvous....Don't forget that there is a lot going on in Las Vegas in mid to late March. Following is a quick breakdown of everything that is happening:

• March 12-15 -- Learn to Lead: An Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership
• March 12-14 -- AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course
• March 14-17 -- Basic Rock Camp
• March 15-16 -- AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Exam 
• March 17      -- Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour in Las Vegas
• March 18-20 -- Red Rock Rendezvous
• March 21-24 -- Basic Rock Camp
• March 22-25 -- Learn to Lead: An Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership 

-- March 16 -- Boulder, CO -- Gear and Cheer 2011 Benefit 

-- March 26 -- San Marcos, TX -- Texas State Flash Fest Bouldering Comp

-- April 8 -- Sunnyvale, CA -- Planet Granite Climbing Comp

-- April 15 -- Seattle, WA -- NWAC Snowball Fundraiser  

-- April 15 - 17 -- Shenandoah, VA -- Shenandoah Rockfest

--April 18 -- Ellensburg, WA -- Ropeless Rodeo, Central WA University Comp