A couple of weeks ago, we posted a video of a carabiner strength test. The video was very popular. We got to see a press destroy a carabiner. Videos of gear breaking are always engaging. As a result, today we have posted a few more climbing gear testing videos from the UIAA. These are both terrifying and a lot of fun all at the same time!
--Jason D. Martin
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Monday, May 30, 2011
A Mountain Film for People Who Didn't Like Vertical Limit
I’m a relative newbie when it comes to the mountain film scene. Of course I’ve seen The Eiger Sanction and Touching the Void, but I’ve never been to the Banff Mountain Film series. So I’m by no means a connoisseur.
Having made this disclaimer, I recommend The White Hell of Pitz Palu to anyone who has an interest in the cultural history of climbing. A German silent thriller that came out in 1929, it was restored and reissued with English titles and symphonic soundtrack in 1997 by the German Film Archive. Along with Holy Mountain and a few others, it is a prime exemplar of the Bergfilm genre, which emerged in Germany between the World Wars and is apparently considered by some critics to be the quintessentially German film genre, analogous to the American Western.
The plot of the movie is simple enough. Maria and Hans, a young couple newly engaged, arrive at a hut on the flanks of Piz Palu in the Bernina Alps of southeast Switzerland. They are riding a wave of excitement and romance. But then a stranger arrives: Dr. Johannes Krafft, who years earlier had lost his wife to a crevasse fall on the Palu, and has wandered the mountain ever since, attempting new routes solo and brooding on his loss. This dangerous figure disrupts the harmonious drama of the newly engaged couple, stirring Maria’s interest and Hans’s competitive ego. The three embark on an ill-contemplated attempt on the North Face of the mountain. Trouble follows.
A series of clips from Leni Riefenstahl's Bergfilme career.
Despite the clear potential for weary psychodrama, the film does not develop a heavy-handed allegory, and instead stays in the realm of the concrete. The special effects -- including an artificial ice cliff, man-made avalanches and serac falls, and a torch-lit search operation in the underworld of the glacier -- are matched only by the fine mountain cinematography.
As enjoyable as the film may be in itself, what makes it really interesting is how it sheds light on some less obvious links between climbing and the larger history of European popular culture. Climbing was something close to a national obsession in Germany between the wars, and was connected to a much broader interest in physical fitness and spiritual overcoming. These interests in turn informed aspects of the Nazi ideology. Leni Riefenstahl, who plays Maria in The White Hell and starred in other Bergfilme, went on to direct her own films in the service of Hitler and Goebbels. Her Triumph of the Will, the film record of the 1934 party rally in Nuremberg, shares many thematic interests and visual motifs with The White Hell.
For those of us who ruminate on the dark side of our sport – the fatalism, the obsession, and the egomania, and where these can lead – the White Hell is a good feed.
Details: You might have some trouble finding it. Bellingham’s excellent high-brow video store Film Is Truth 24 Times a Second stocks it thanks to Graham, our shop manager who once worked there. Netflix has it. Good luck finding it at any mainstream video store.
Having made this disclaimer, I recommend The White Hell of Pitz Palu to anyone who has an interest in the cultural history of climbing. A German silent thriller that came out in 1929, it was restored and reissued with English titles and symphonic soundtrack in 1997 by the German Film Archive. Along with Holy Mountain and a few others, it is a prime exemplar of the Bergfilm genre, which emerged in Germany between the World Wars and is apparently considered by some critics to be the quintessentially German film genre, analogous to the American Western.
The plot of the movie is simple enough. Maria and Hans, a young couple newly engaged, arrive at a hut on the flanks of Piz Palu in the Bernina Alps of southeast Switzerland. They are riding a wave of excitement and romance. But then a stranger arrives: Dr. Johannes Krafft, who years earlier had lost his wife to a crevasse fall on the Palu, and has wandered the mountain ever since, attempting new routes solo and brooding on his loss. This dangerous figure disrupts the harmonious drama of the newly engaged couple, stirring Maria’s interest and Hans’s competitive ego. The three embark on an ill-contemplated attempt on the North Face of the mountain. Trouble follows.
A series of clips from Leni Riefenstahl's Bergfilme career.
Despite the clear potential for weary psychodrama, the film does not develop a heavy-handed allegory, and instead stays in the realm of the concrete. The special effects -- including an artificial ice cliff, man-made avalanches and serac falls, and a torch-lit search operation in the underworld of the glacier -- are matched only by the fine mountain cinematography.
As enjoyable as the film may be in itself, what makes it really interesting is how it sheds light on some less obvious links between climbing and the larger history of European popular culture. Climbing was something close to a national obsession in Germany between the wars, and was connected to a much broader interest in physical fitness and spiritual overcoming. These interests in turn informed aspects of the Nazi ideology. Leni Riefenstahl, who plays Maria in The White Hell and starred in other Bergfilme, went on to direct her own films in the service of Hitler and Goebbels. Her Triumph of the Will, the film record of the 1934 party rally in Nuremberg, shares many thematic interests and visual motifs with The White Hell.
For those of us who ruminate on the dark side of our sport – the fatalism, the obsession, and the egomania, and where these can lead – the White Hell is a good feed.
Details: You might have some trouble finding it. Bellingham’s excellent high-brow video store Film Is Truth 24 Times a Second stocks it thanks to Graham, our shop manager who once worked there. Netflix has it. Good luck finding it at any mainstream video store.
-- Tom Kirby, AAI Instructor and Guide
Sunday, May 29, 2011
June and July Climbing Events
-- May 27 - 29 -- Gunnison, CO -- 24 Hours of Gunnison Glory
-- May 29 -- Bellingham, WA -- Ski to Sea -- Celebrating 100 Years Since the Mt Baker Marathon!
-- June 2 -- Vail, CO -- IFSC Bouldering World Cup - Teva Mountain Games
-- June 6-10 -- Grand Teton, WY -- Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch Work Week
-- June 23 - 26 -- France -- Vibram Natural Games
-- June 25 - 26 -- Mazama, WA -- AAC's RockFest 2011 with Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope
-- July 6 - 10 -- Lander, WY -- International Climber's Festival
-- July 13 - 17 -- Squamish, BC -- Squamish Mountain Festival
-- July 13 - 16 -- Norway -- World Base Race
-- June 6-10 -- Grand Teton, WY -- Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch Work Week
-- June 23 - 26 -- France -- Vibram Natural Games
-- June 25 - 26 -- Mazama, WA -- AAC's RockFest 2011 with Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope
-- July 6 - 10 -- Lander, WY -- International Climber's Festival
-- July 13 - 17 -- Squamish, BC -- Squamish Mountain Festival
-- July 13 - 16 -- Norway -- World Base Race
Saturday, May 28, 2011
Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!
Friday, May 27, 2011
Placing Cams - SLCDs
The Canadian Guide, Mike Barter, posted the following two videos on youtube about placing cams.
In the first video Mike, his wife and his young daughter talk about cams while hanging out at a swimming pool in Spain. The banter between them about cam placements is quite good...but it sounds like some of his regular viewers gave him a hard time about it and told him that he needed to be in front of a rock wall.
In the second video, Mike talks about cams at a crag.
While watching these videos, it's important to understand that placing cams is an art. And before you trust your life to them, the best thing that you could do is to take a class in order to learn how to place them properly.
--Jason D. Martin
In the first video Mike, his wife and his young daughter talk about cams while hanging out at a swimming pool in Spain. The banter between them about cam placements is quite good...but it sounds like some of his regular viewers gave him a hard time about it and told him that he needed to be in front of a rock wall.
In the second video, Mike talks about cams at a crag.
While watching these videos, it's important to understand that placing cams is an art. And before you trust your life to them, the best thing that you could do is to take a class in order to learn how to place them properly.
--Jason D. Martin
Thursday, May 26, 2011
More Accidents in the Alaska Range
Weather and conditions have been good on Denali this week, but that has also created hard packed slopes in some areas and avalanche conditions in others.
Late Wednesday night, a rope team of four climbers fell near Denali Pass at 18,000 feet. The accident resulted in the death of two climbers and injured the two other climbers. The two injured climbers were placed in rescue litters and lowered to High Camp at 17,200' for overnight medical care and were flown off the mountain Thursday morning. The cause of the fall is unknown at this time and the weather was clear with relatively calm winds. No names have been released as of 5:20pm. See below for Denali National Park's Press Release. For an article, click here.
The second accident happened on Mount Frances (also in Denali National Park) when an avalanche swept away two climbers. Jiro Kurihara from Canada and Junya Shiraishi from Japan were last seen May 21 at the Talkeeta Basecamp at 7,200 feet. When the climbers had not returned to their campsite May 23, NPS staff skied to the western face and tried unsuccessfully to spot the climbers with a spotting scope. On the morning of May 25, a NPS helicopter spotted the remains of the two climbers in the avalanche debris.
National Park Service Press Release
Date: May 26, 2011
A fatal climbing fall at Denali Pass on Mt. McKinley took the lives of two mountaineers late Wednesday night May 25, while two other members of the climbing team were flown to area hospitals with critical injuries early the morning of May 26.
Mountaineers at the 17,200-foot high camp reportedly witnessed the four-person rope team fall from Denali Pass near 18,000 feet at approximately 11:00 pm Wednesday night. An expedition of Air National Guard pararescuemen from the 212th Rescue Squadron responded to the fallen climbers and confirmed that two of the four had died in the fall. The other two patients were placed in rescue litters and lowered to the 17,200-foot high camp for emergency medical treatment. One patient was responsive and in stable condition with a broken leg and head injury. The second patient was non-responsive with labored breathing; the Air National Guard medics at high camp worked throughout the night to maintain the patient’s airway.
At 4:15 am on Thursday, May 26, Denali National Park’s high altitude A-Star B3 helicopter flew to the 17,200-foot high camp and evacuated each patient separately. They were flown to the 7,200-foot Kahiltna Basecamp to two awaiting LifeMed air ambulances.
Details on the cause of the fall are unknown. Weather at the time of the accident was clear with relatively calm winds. The four-person rope team was beginning the traverse from Denali Pass to the 17,200-foot camp along a 45-degree slope of very hard, windblown snowpack. This fall occurred in the same vicinity as the fatal fall of an unroped Italian climber on May 16.
Names of the climbers involved in the fatal accident are being withheld pending notification of family and friends.
National Park Service Press Release
Date: May 25, 2011
Two overdue climbers on Mt. Frances were confirmed dead after Denali National Park mountaineering rangers located their remains in avalanche debris near the base of the 10,450-foot peak. Jiro Kurihara, age 33 of Canmore, Alberta, Canada and Junya Shiraishi age 28 of Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan were attempting a new route on the west face of Mt. Frances, a commonly climbed technical peak just north of the 7,200-foot Kahiltna Basecamp, when the avalanche occurred.
The two men were last seen at the Kahiltna Basecamp on May 21. When they had not returned to their campsite by May 23, NPS rangers skied to the western face with a spotting scope, but did not observe the two climbers. On the morning of Tuesday, May 24, mountaineering rangers on board the park’s contracted A-Star B3 helicopter did an aerial search of the peak and identified one body lying in avalanche debris, with a partially buried rope attached. Rangers flew back to the debris zone early Wednesday morning May 25 when the colder morning temperatures created a safer recovery operation. Rangers were able to locate and recover the bodies of both men using helicopter shorthaul technique.
Kurihara and Shiraishi had flown into the Alaska Range on April 27 with original plans of climbing the Cassin Ridge of Denali. The team had recently completed a successful ascent of Denali’s West Buttress route when the accident occurred.
According to park records, these are the first two fatalities to occur on Mt. Frances.
On the West Ridge of Frances, looking down on the Kahiltna Glacier. (file photo)
Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 5/26/11
Northwest:
--At an elevation of 10,778 feet, the snow-capped summit of Mount Baker watches quietly over Whatcom County. For some Western Washington University students, the mountain is merely a pleasant icing on the Bellingham cake. For other, more adventurous students, the steep slopes stand in silent mockery; a challenge waiting to be skied, climbed and explored. To read more, click here.
--Authorities said a climber fell 50 feet from a Portland hill and died. Christian Steiner, 27, was one of two Austrian men climbing Saturday on Rocky Butte, an extinct volcano rising about 600 feet above northeast Portland. To read more, click here.
--Monika, who recently passed away when a cornice broke out from under her, was also amidst a lawsuit with REI because of her REI Purchased road bike broke while she was riding, causing severe injuries and damage. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
-- California's Department of Fish and Wildlife will be stocking lakes in Southern California and the Easter Sierras this week. For a complete listing of lakes being stocked, click here.
--The opening of Tioga Pass is still unknown, due to massive quantities of snow on the east entrance of Yosemite National Park. To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--Two rock climbers were brought to safety Saturday night following an “extremely dangerous” rescue mission at a popular Lake Tahoe area rock formation. A 33-year-old Bay Area man suffered moderate injuries after falling between 80 and 100 foot fall while climbing with a partner at the prominent granite formation. To read more, click here.
--Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area’s developed campground is scheduled to temporarily close from May 31 to Sept. 1. To read more, click here.
--Call it the art of saving art. Volunteers are working to rid the graffiti off Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area's petroglyphs and pictographs. To read more, click here.
Alaska:
--AAI's Denali Team 2, lead by Richard Riquelme, turned around at 14,000 feet without a summit attempt due to horrible weather conditions. Remember, climbing mountains is a round trip event. Read more dispatches on our blog.
--AAI's Denali Team 3, lead by Mat Erpelding, is having fantastic weather and eating Denali Sandwhiches: Greasy Cheese and Salami! The group is strong and scheduled for a rest day tomorrow. To read more, click here.
--AAI's Denali Team 4, lead by Angel Seidling, is starting strong and made it to Camp 1. To read more, click here.
Himalaya:
--Neal Beidleman, a survivor of the Mount Everest disaster chronicled in the book "Into Thin Air," says retracing his steps helped him come to terms with the tragedy that cost the lives of eight climbers. Last Friday, 51-year-old Beidleman again reached the top of the world's highest peak in an expedition that took him past the graves of his friends and to the site of a disaster that has been etched in his mind for the past 15 years. To read more, click here and here.
--The Irish climber who died near the top of Mount Everest three days after his wife gave birth to a baby girl had not originally set out to reach the summit. John Delaney (41), from Kilcock, Co Kildare, made the decision to push for the top of the world's highest mountain at the last minute. To read more, click here.
--Michael Horst has just climbed Everest and Lhotse summit to summit in 21 hours. This marks the first person to climb two 8000 meter peaks in one day. Click here to read more.
Notes from All Over:
-- A man who was crushed by a boulder while using his smartphone's GPS coordinates to find a hidden treasure was found by emergency workers with the help of those same coordinates. The man remains in critical condition after the 30-pound rock fell on him while he was bouldering in the Austin greenbelt. To read more, click here.
-- Lori Schneider, who has scaled all of the seven continental summits and was the first person with multiple sclerosis to climb Mount Everest is going to scale another height: the Eiffel Tower. “We need to work together globally to find a cure so I hope to raise a little bit of awareness in a wonderful, famous place like the Eiffel Tower in Paris,” she says. To read more, click here.
-- Colorado's Larimer County Sheriff's Dispatch was notified that a climber had been struck by a rock and fallen approximately 20 feet in rugged terrain south of highway 14 in the Poudre Canyon narrows area. Sheriff's officials say that due to darkness and extremely steep, near vertical terrain, the rescue effort was not completed until approximately 1:30 AM the next morning. To read more, click here.
--Ten years after reaching the summit of Mount Everest, Erik Weihenmayer is still blind. But his vision has become crystal clear. Wednesday marks the 10-year anniversary of the Golden mountaineer's historic achievement as the first and only blind man to reach the 29,035-foot Himalayan mountaintop. Erik also just graduated from Bucknell University. Congrats Erik! To read more, click here and here.
--At an elevation of 10,778 feet, the snow-capped summit of Mount Baker watches quietly over Whatcom County. For some Western Washington University students, the mountain is merely a pleasant icing on the Bellingham cake. For other, more adventurous students, the steep slopes stand in silent mockery; a challenge waiting to be skied, climbed and explored. To read more, click here.
--Authorities said a climber fell 50 feet from a Portland hill and died. Christian Steiner, 27, was one of two Austrian men climbing Saturday on Rocky Butte, an extinct volcano rising about 600 feet above northeast Portland. To read more, click here.
--Monika, who recently passed away when a cornice broke out from under her, was also amidst a lawsuit with REI because of her REI Purchased road bike broke while she was riding, causing severe injuries and damage. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
-- California's Department of Fish and Wildlife will be stocking lakes in Southern California and the Easter Sierras this week. For a complete listing of lakes being stocked, click here.
--The opening of Tioga Pass is still unknown, due to massive quantities of snow on the east entrance of Yosemite National Park. To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--Two rock climbers were brought to safety Saturday night following an “extremely dangerous” rescue mission at a popular Lake Tahoe area rock formation. A 33-year-old Bay Area man suffered moderate injuries after falling between 80 and 100 foot fall while climbing with a partner at the prominent granite formation. To read more, click here.
--Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area’s developed campground is scheduled to temporarily close from May 31 to Sept. 1. To read more, click here.
--Call it the art of saving art. Volunteers are working to rid the graffiti off Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area's petroglyphs and pictographs. To read more, click here.
Alaska:
--AAI's Denali Team 2, lead by Richard Riquelme, turned around at 14,000 feet without a summit attempt due to horrible weather conditions. Remember, climbing mountains is a round trip event. Read more dispatches on our blog.
--AAI's Denali Team 3, lead by Mat Erpelding, is having fantastic weather and eating Denali Sandwhiches: Greasy Cheese and Salami! The group is strong and scheduled for a rest day tomorrow. To read more, click here.
--AAI's Denali Team 4, lead by Angel Seidling, is starting strong and made it to Camp 1. To read more, click here.
Himalaya:
--Neal Beidleman, a survivor of the Mount Everest disaster chronicled in the book "Into Thin Air," says retracing his steps helped him come to terms with the tragedy that cost the lives of eight climbers. Last Friday, 51-year-old Beidleman again reached the top of the world's highest peak in an expedition that took him past the graves of his friends and to the site of a disaster that has been etched in his mind for the past 15 years. To read more, click here and here.
--The Irish climber who died near the top of Mount Everest three days after his wife gave birth to a baby girl had not originally set out to reach the summit. John Delaney (41), from Kilcock, Co Kildare, made the decision to push for the top of the world's highest mountain at the last minute. To read more, click here.
--Michael Horst has just climbed Everest and Lhotse summit to summit in 21 hours. This marks the first person to climb two 8000 meter peaks in one day. Click here to read more.
Notes from All Over:
-- A man who was crushed by a boulder while using his smartphone's GPS coordinates to find a hidden treasure was found by emergency workers with the help of those same coordinates. The man remains in critical condition after the 30-pound rock fell on him while he was bouldering in the Austin greenbelt. To read more, click here.
-- Lori Schneider, who has scaled all of the seven continental summits and was the first person with multiple sclerosis to climb Mount Everest is going to scale another height: the Eiffel Tower. “We need to work together globally to find a cure so I hope to raise a little bit of awareness in a wonderful, famous place like the Eiffel Tower in Paris,” she says. To read more, click here.
-- Colorado's Larimer County Sheriff's Dispatch was notified that a climber had been struck by a rock and fallen approximately 20 feet in rugged terrain south of highway 14 in the Poudre Canyon narrows area. Sheriff's officials say that due to darkness and extremely steep, near vertical terrain, the rescue effort was not completed until approximately 1:30 AM the next morning. To read more, click here.
--Ten years after reaching the summit of Mount Everest, Erik Weihenmayer is still blind. But his vision has become crystal clear. Wednesday marks the 10-year anniversary of the Golden mountaineer's historic achievement as the first and only blind man to reach the 29,035-foot Himalayan mountaintop. Erik also just graduated from Bucknell University. Congrats Erik! To read more, click here and here.
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
Conditions Report - May 25 2011
NORTHWEST:
-- Here's the Update you've all been waiting for: Highway 20 is reopening on Wednesday!
Wednesday’s noon reopening of the North Cascades Highway marks the second latest since the highway opened 39 years ago. The latest ever was June 14, 1974, and the next latest, surpassed by this year, was in 1976 when it reopened on May 21. WSDOT maintenance crews will open the east and west winter closure gates on SR 20 to traffic at noon on Wednesday, May 25. The clearing effort took more than six weeks, compared to just three-and-a-half weeks last spring. Nine feet of snowfall in March and a record seven-and-a-half feet in April on the western slopes of the Cascades kept avalanche control technicians and snow clearing equipment on Stevens Pass until the avalanche threat eased and allowed the team to move up to the North Cascades. There, they found SR 20 buried in snow as deep as 75 feet. Click here and here for more information.
--Check out this trip report for Darrington, WA (specifically Three O'Clock Rock). Looks like the approach took them about 2 hours, with the road being blocked at mile post 2.
-- Click here for a discussion on Washington crag weather. What do you think when the forecast calls for rain? Where do you go? By the way, that's up with the 'June Gloom', anyway? Check out the Cliff Mass weather blog for an explanation.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.
ALASKA RANGE:
-- The 2011 annual road lottery in Denali National Park and Preserve will take
place on September 16, 17, 18, and 19 (Friday through Monday), weather permitting. Each day 400 vehicles may use their day-long permits, obtained through the lottery system, to travel the Denali Park Road. If weather permits, the road may be open for its entire 92-mile length, offering exceptional opportunities for experiencing the heart of the park. Entries must be made online at www.recreation.gov . The online entry form will be available at www.recreation.gov from 12:01 a.m. June 1, 2011 until midnight on June 30, 2011 (Alaska time).
--Conditions in the range will be available as our dispatches come in. Please go to our Dispatch Blog for the most updated information.
RED ROCK CANYON:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times. It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full. Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit." And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.
--The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle. Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase. Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out. Annual passes are available for $30.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
-- Here's the Update you've all been waiting for: Highway 20 is reopening on Wednesday!
Wednesday’s noon reopening of the North Cascades Highway marks the second latest since the highway opened 39 years ago. The latest ever was June 14, 1974, and the next latest, surpassed by this year, was in 1976 when it reopened on May 21. WSDOT maintenance crews will open the east and west winter closure gates on SR 20 to traffic at noon on Wednesday, May 25. The clearing effort took more than six weeks, compared to just three-and-a-half weeks last spring. Nine feet of snowfall in March and a record seven-and-a-half feet in April on the western slopes of the Cascades kept avalanche control technicians and snow clearing equipment on Stevens Pass until the avalanche threat eased and allowed the team to move up to the North Cascades. There, they found SR 20 buried in snow as deep as 75 feet. Click here and here for more information.
--Check out this trip report for Darrington, WA (specifically Three O'Clock Rock). Looks like the approach took them about 2 hours, with the road being blocked at mile post 2.
-- Click here for a discussion on Washington crag weather. What do you think when the forecast calls for rain? Where do you go? By the way, that's up with the 'June Gloom', anyway? Check out the Cliff Mass weather blog for an explanation.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.
SIERRA:
--Five out of six Yosemite area webcams are up. Click here.
-- A discussion about opening day for Toulumne camping can be found here.
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Five out of six Yosemite area webcams are up. Click here.
-- A discussion about opening day for Toulumne camping can be found here.
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.
ALASKA RANGE:
-- The 2011 annual road lottery in Denali National Park and Preserve will take
place on September 16, 17, 18, and 19 (Friday through Monday), weather permitting. Each day 400 vehicles may use their day-long permits, obtained through the lottery system, to travel the Denali Park Road. If weather permits, the road may be open for its entire 92-mile length, offering exceptional opportunities for experiencing the heart of the park. Entries must be made online at www.recreation.gov . The online entry form will be available at www.recreation.gov from 12:01 a.m. June 1, 2011 until midnight on June 30, 2011 (Alaska time).
--Conditions in the range will be available as our dispatches come in. Please go to our Dispatch Blog for the most updated information.
RED ROCK CANYON:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times. It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full. Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit." And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.
--The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle. Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase. Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out. Annual passes are available for $30.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
The Indespensibles
We all have them. They are the luxury items that you absolutely must have on every trip.
They are the indispensables.
In climbing, we always worry about weight. Every single item that we carry costs us energy, so every single item that we carry should be valuable to us.
I have a few items that are absolutely and utterly indispensable for longer trips. These aren't always the lightest items, but for me, they are completely indispensable. I always take the proceeding items:
Books can be heavy, but they are literally worth their weight in gold when there is a storm. If you are in the middle of a novel, don't be afraid to cut a book in half in order to avoid carrying some of the weight. I often slice books in half and then put duct tape on the remaining spine to ensure that it doesn't fall apart.
I bring a jetboil with lots of tea because a jetboil can easily be used in a tent's vestibule. When I'm sitting in my tent for hours on end, drinking tea not only keeps me warm, but helps to keep me hydrated and occupied. And it tastes good too...
At the ripe old age of 36, I've become lazy. I do not want to get out of my tent at the middle of the night to use the bathroom...indeed, I don't want to get out of my sleeping bag. As such, I carry a pee bottle on most of my mountaineering trips. Men have it a little bit easier with pee bottles than women do. If men get really good at using them, they don't have to get out of their sleeping bags. Women usually require a pee funnel (something that most female guides consider an indispensable). The reality is, that I find a pee bottle so indispensable to my happiness on trips, that I would use one at home if my wife would let me. She doesn't...and has threatened divorce if I even think of trying to use a pee bottle in bed.
Early in the season I like to bring down booties. These provide a great way to get out of your boots when it's snowy. Later in the season, when I can camp on dry dirt, I like to bring a pair of flip flops for the same reason. These items provide my boots the opportunity to dry and my feet the opportunity to breathe.
And lastly, I find good chocolate to be indispensable in the mountains. Why? For two reasons. First, it tastes really good and I have a sweet tooth. And second, eating fat before going to bed can help you keep warm at night. When your metabolism is at work breaking down fatty foods, it warms your body in the same manner as light exercise. It's hard to sleep while exercising, but not so hard when you're just digesting.
While I consider each of these items to be indispensable on multi-day mountaineering trips, I consider all of them to be completely dispensable on short, fast and light alpine climbing trips. On such trips, I carry as little as possible. And when I say as little as possible, I mean as little as possible. This may mean leaving everything from the toothbrush to the sleeping bag behind.
Everybody has luxuries that they consider to be indispensable. The goal in creating a list of indispensable items is to really think about things that you absolutely must have in order to be comfortable. And your indispensable list should be very very short...
--Jason D. Martin
They are the indispensables.
In climbing, we always worry about weight. Every single item that we carry costs us energy, so every single item that we carry should be valuable to us.
I have a few items that are absolutely and utterly indispensable for longer trips. These aren't always the lightest items, but for me, they are completely indispensable. I always take the proceeding items:
- a book
- a jetboil and lots of tea
- a pee bottle
- down booties or flip flops
- good chocolate
Books can be heavy, but they are literally worth their weight in gold when there is a storm. If you are in the middle of a novel, don't be afraid to cut a book in half in order to avoid carrying some of the weight. I often slice books in half and then put duct tape on the remaining spine to ensure that it doesn't fall apart.
I bring a jetboil with lots of tea because a jetboil can easily be used in a tent's vestibule. When I'm sitting in my tent for hours on end, drinking tea not only keeps me warm, but helps to keep me hydrated and occupied. And it tastes good too...
At the ripe old age of 36, I've become lazy. I do not want to get out of my tent at the middle of the night to use the bathroom...indeed, I don't want to get out of my sleeping bag. As such, I carry a pee bottle on most of my mountaineering trips. Men have it a little bit easier with pee bottles than women do. If men get really good at using them, they don't have to get out of their sleeping bags. Women usually require a pee funnel (something that most female guides consider an indispensable). The reality is, that I find a pee bottle so indispensable to my happiness on trips, that I would use one at home if my wife would let me. She doesn't...and has threatened divorce if I even think of trying to use a pee bottle in bed.
Early in the season I like to bring down booties. These provide a great way to get out of your boots when it's snowy. Later in the season, when I can camp on dry dirt, I like to bring a pair of flip flops for the same reason. These items provide my boots the opportunity to dry and my feet the opportunity to breathe.
And lastly, I find good chocolate to be indispensable in the mountains. Why? For two reasons. First, it tastes really good and I have a sweet tooth. And second, eating fat before going to bed can help you keep warm at night. When your metabolism is at work breaking down fatty foods, it warms your body in the same manner as light exercise. It's hard to sleep while exercising, but not so hard when you're just digesting.
While I consider each of these items to be indispensable on multi-day mountaineering trips, I consider all of them to be completely dispensable on short, fast and light alpine climbing trips. On such trips, I carry as little as possible. And when I say as little as possible, I mean as little as possible. This may mean leaving everything from the toothbrush to the sleeping bag behind.
Everybody has luxuries that they consider to be indispensable. The goal in creating a list of indispensable items is to really think about things that you absolutely must have in order to be comfortable. And your indispensable list should be very very short...
--Jason D. Martin
Monday, May 23, 2011
Mt. Baker Summit Climb with Students from the Bush School
This week I did a trip to Mt. Baker's Easton Glacier with a group of
students from the Bush School in Seattle. The trip started with a
questionable weather report, which is never a good thing when you are
hoping to summit Mt. Baker. The first issue is that the road to the
trail head is still covered with snow for over three miles. This made
for a long hike in to our first camp.
After a long day of walking we got to a camp at the base of the Rail Road Grade (a glacial moraine that runs along the west side of the Easton Glacier). We set up camp cooked dinner and went to bed. Unfortunately we awoke the next day to rain. We decided not to move to a higher camp so we could stay dry. After breakfast I went back to bed. The students entertained themselves with cards.
I was surprised to find the rain had turned to snow when I woke from my 4 hour midday nap.
The next morning looked like the weather might get
better so we decided to move to a camp that was high enough up the
mountain to summit from. The move to Sandy Camp was reasonably strait
forward and only took a couple of hours.
As the weather slowly improved we did some glacier skills practice in hopes that we would be able to climb to the summit the next morning.
Morning always comes too early for me. We had a 1am wake up.
Once back at camp we ate some lunch and packed up
camp. From there we began the long hike out. The really long hike
out. Thanks to the crew from the Bush
School in Seattle. This was one of the more fun groups of people I
have been out in the mountains with. All in all a very rewarding
experience for all, including me!
The complete set of photos can be found at http://alasdairturner.smugmug.com/
Alasdair Turner
Instructor and Guide
After a long day of walking we got to a camp at the base of the Rail Road Grade (a glacial moraine that runs along the west side of the Easton Glacier). We set up camp cooked dinner and went to bed. Unfortunately we awoke the next day to rain. We decided not to move to a higher camp so we could stay dry. After breakfast I went back to bed. The students entertained themselves with cards.
 |
| Looking down the valley to Baker Lake. |
 |
| Even the birds were wet. |
 |
| Ricardo |
I was surprised to find the rain had turned to snow when I woke from my 4 hour midday nap.
 |
| Snow on the cook tent. |
 |
| Erica |
 |
| Is the sun trying to break through? |
 |
| Jordan |
 |
| Maggie |
As the weather slowly improved we did some glacier skills practice in hopes that we would be able to climb to the summit the next morning.
 |
| Checking out a small crevasse. |
 |
| Rope team travel practice. |
Morning always comes too early for me. We had a 1am wake up.
 |
| Camp at 1am with the Twin Sisters Range in the background. |
 |
| Camp at 1am with Mt. Baker's summit in background. |
 |
| Sunrise |
 |
| Isabel. |
 |
| Starting up the Roman Wall. |
 |
| Mt. Bakers summit. |
 |
| On the summit. |
 |
| The second rope team nears the summit. |
 |
| Th last few steps to the summit. |
 |
| The summit. |
 |
| A slight detour heading down to view some seracs. |
 |
| A panorama of the summit crater. This was seven photos stitched together. |
The complete set of photos can be found at http://alasdairturner.smugmug.com/
Alasdair Turner
Instructor and Guide
Sunday, May 22, 2011
May and June Climbing Events
-- May 20 -22 -- New River Gorge, WV -- New River Rendezvous
-- May 21-31 -- Armenia -- Armenia First Ascent Open Festival
-- May 22 -- Vantage, WA -- Adopt-A-Crag
-- May 22-26 -- Greece -- Kalymnos Climbing Festival
-- May 22 -- Vantage, WA -- Adopt-A-Crag
-- May 22-26 -- Greece -- Kalymnos Climbing Festival
-- May 27 - 29 -- Gunnison, CO -- 24 Hours of Gunnison Glory
-- May 29 -- Bellingham, WA -- Ski to Sea -- Celebrating 100 Years Since the Mt Baker Marathon!
-- June 2 -- Vail, CO -- IFSC Bouldering World Cup - Teva Mountain Games
-- June 6-10 -- Grand Teton, WY -- Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch Work Week
-- June 23 - 26 -- France -- Vibram Natural Games
-- June 6-10 -- Grand Teton, WY -- Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch Work Week
-- June 23 - 26 -- France -- Vibram Natural Games
Saturday, May 21, 2011
Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!
Does size really matter? Well, according to Colin Haley, height doesn't matter to him for climbing. He'd prefer more technical, shorter routes that require speed and efficiency for survival. Check out this sweet video by Fringe Elements.
Now get out there and get some!
--Katy Pfannenstein
Program Coordinator
Now get out there and get some!
--Katy Pfannenstein
Program Coordinator
Friday, May 20, 2011
Rope Flossing
Flossing is a practice recommended by most dentists, but in the mountains flossing can be bad for you. “Rope Flossing” is a potentially fatal exercise that should be avoided at all costs.
In the mountains, “getting flossed” refers to being plucked off the mountain by the rope of another climbing team. The consequences for such an event are usually tragic, and constitute yet another objective hazard that climbing parties should be aware of. In busy mountain ranges such as the alps, thousands of climbers with a varying array of ability levels attempt hundreds of classic routes daily. Here in Chamonix, accident data is not reported as conveniently as it is in Accidents in North American Mountaineering, but I do know that the PGHM rescue helicopter does upwards of 12 rescue flights daily. You can bet that a team or two has been “flossed” over the years.
At times, rope-flossing has been a real threat to my safety and the safety of others around me. I have arrived at route bottlenecks in the past only to find groups of four to six climbers all tied together on the same rope, with 10 or 15 meters of slack between them - most of which is being held uselessly in their hands. Their blank expressions and blinking eyes often signify a level of ignorance and maladroitness that I find frightening. The most stated justification for this technique that I have heard stems from the irrational “safety in numbers” heuristics trap, based on the assumption that the chance of something going wrong diminishes as the group size increases. There is often no running belay (protection points) between them, nor do many of these teams have a grasp of using existing terrain (horns, flakes, etc) to their advantage. It begs the question, what will happen if one team member falls? I don't waste time trying to answer the question - my priority is to either pass or bail ASAP. Poor rope-work and dangerously large group sizes have led me to suggest to some rope teams (who peculiarly seem to arrive from the eastern European countries) that they should A), divide their rope team into smaller ones, or B) that they should put the rope away and climb unroped. It may seem crazy, but a poorly-used rope is often more dangerous than none at all. At least that way only one person at a time can fall....
I was told a story by a colleague about a large group of climbers (Seven) he encountered on Mt Blanc who were traversing the Grande Couloir and were making their way up the loose rock on the other side. The slack rope between them was dislodging many stones, and their pace was at a stand-still (at the most dangerous part of the route). Out came my colleagues’ knife, and the seven-person team became two 2-man teams and one 3-man team. There was little argument when the knife began slashing sheath and core.
The most famous example of rope-flossing in recent history was prominently displayed in the 2001 Sony Pictures abomination Vertical Limit. In the beginning of the film, a critical error (one only possibl
e in hollywood-land) causes a rope-team of two to fall simultaneously off of a multi-pitch tower in the Arizona desert. Below them, Royce Garrett belays his son and daughter Peter and Annie Garrett while they follow his pitch. The rope between the two falling victims flosses the father from his belay station (i am not sure how his body is able to withstand the force of the fall-factor 10+ fall from above while his anchor fails, but physics must not work the same way in Hollywood...) In series, Royce pulls off Peter, who pulls off Annie, until five dangling and spinning people are stopped by a #3 and #5 metolius camming unit (gosh I love those sizes). As is customary whenever climbing is portrayed in a Hollywood film, the knife comes out eventually to cut the rope - in this case it’s the father who pays the ultimate sacrifice so that his two children can survive in order to endure an incredibly contrived and totally improbable half-baked climbing epic on K2 later in the film (For more examples of knives and climbing ropes, read or watch Touching the Void, The Eiger Sanction, Cliffhanger, or any James Bond film).
More recently, in May of 2002, there was a high profile rope-flossing incident on Mt Hood. A four-person team fell from near the summit and were not able to arrest their fall. Their rope snagged a team of five during the fall, until two rope-teams (9 people) were tumbling down the slope. The teams slid into a bergschrund at the bottom, and three climbers were killed, while three were critically injured. The accident underscored the limited threshold at which self-arrest is a viable means of stopping a sliding rope team - sometimes the slope is just too steep for self arrest to be appropriate, and more secure techniques should be used, such as the placement of snow pickets, the use of belays and stances, etc. Perhaps in extreme circumstances, no rope at all could be safer. The public’s attention to the accident was unfortunately distracted by the subsequent crash of the Blackhawk rescue helicopte dispatched to the scene.
The rope is a tool that is effective only when used properly. It can provide a great service to the climbers tied to it by keeping them attached to one another, but also hopefully attached to the mountain. Proactive self-education in the form of taking courses and reading how-to books such as Mark Houston and Cathy Cosley’s Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher go a long way in providing climbers with the skills to make well-informed decisions on how best to employ the rope as a tool of safety and security, not one of hollywood mayhem.
--Dylan Taylor
In the mountains, “getting flossed” refers to being plucked off the mountain by the rope of another climbing team. The consequences for such an event are usually tragic, and constitute yet another objective hazard that climbing parties should be aware of. In busy mountain ranges such as the alps, thousands of climbers with a varying array of ability levels attempt hundreds of classic routes daily. Here in Chamonix, accident data is not reported as conveniently as it is in Accidents in North American Mountaineering, but I do know that the PGHM rescue helicopter does upwards of 12 rescue flights daily. You can bet that a team or two has been “flossed” over the years.
At times, rope-flossing has been a real threat to my safety and the safety of others around me. I have arrived at route bottlenecks in the past only to find groups of four to six climbers all tied together on the same rope, with 10 or 15 meters of slack between them - most of which is being held uselessly in their hands. Their blank expressions and blinking eyes often signify a level of ignorance and maladroitness that I find frightening. The most stated justification for this technique that I have heard stems from the irrational “safety in numbers” heuristics trap, based on the assumption that the chance of something going wrong diminishes as the group size increases. There is often no running belay (protection points) between them, nor do many of these teams have a grasp of using existing terrain (horns, flakes, etc) to their advantage. It begs the question, what will happen if one team member falls? I don't waste time trying to answer the question - my priority is to either pass or bail ASAP. Poor rope-work and dangerously large group sizes have led me to suggest to some rope teams (who peculiarly seem to arrive from the eastern European countries) that they should A), divide their rope team into smaller ones, or B) that they should put the rope away and climb unroped. It may seem crazy, but a poorly-used rope is often more dangerous than none at all. At least that way only one person at a time can fall....I was told a story by a colleague about a large group of climbers (Seven) he encountered on Mt Blanc who were traversing the Grande Couloir and were making their way up the loose rock on the other side. The slack rope between them was dislodging many stones, and their pace was at a stand-still (at the most dangerous part of the route). Out came my colleagues’ knife, and the seven-person team became two 2-man teams and one 3-man team. There was little argument when the knife began slashing sheath and core.
The most famous example of rope-flossing in recent history was prominently displayed in the 2001 Sony Pictures abomination Vertical Limit. In the beginning of the film, a critical error (one only possibl
e in hollywood-land) causes a rope-team of two to fall simultaneously off of a multi-pitch tower in the Arizona desert. Below them, Royce Garrett belays his son and daughter Peter and Annie Garrett while they follow his pitch. The rope between the two falling victims flosses the father from his belay station (i am not sure how his body is able to withstand the force of the fall-factor 10+ fall from above while his anchor fails, but physics must not work the same way in Hollywood...) In series, Royce pulls off Peter, who pulls off Annie, until five dangling and spinning people are stopped by a #3 and #5 metolius camming unit (gosh I love those sizes). As is customary whenever climbing is portrayed in a Hollywood film, the knife comes out eventually to cut the rope - in this case it’s the father who pays the ultimate sacrifice so that his two children can survive in order to endure an incredibly contrived and totally improbable half-baked climbing epic on K2 later in the film (For more examples of knives and climbing ropes, read or watch Touching the Void, The Eiger Sanction, Cliffhanger, or any James Bond film).More recently, in May of 2002, there was a high profile rope-flossing incident on Mt Hood. A four-person team fell from near the summit and were not able to arrest their fall. Their rope snagged a team of five during the fall, until two rope-teams (9 people) were tumbling down the slope. The teams slid into a bergschrund at the bottom, and three climbers were killed, while three were critically injured. The accident underscored the limited threshold at which self-arrest is a viable means of stopping a sliding rope team - sometimes the slope is just too steep for self arrest to be appropriate, and more secure techniques should be used, such as the placement of snow pickets, the use of belays and stances, etc. Perhaps in extreme circumstances, no rope at all could be safer. The public’s attention to the accident was unfortunately distracted by the subsequent crash of the Blackhawk rescue helicopte dispatched to the scene.
The rope is a tool that is effective only when used properly. It can provide a great service to the climbers tied to it by keeping them attached to one another, but also hopefully attached to the mountain. Proactive self-education in the form of taking courses and reading how-to books such as Mark Houston and Cathy Cosley’s Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher go a long way in providing climbers with the skills to make well-informed decisions on how best to employ the rope as a tool of safety and security, not one of hollywood mayhem.
--Dylan Taylor
Thursday, May 19, 2011
Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 5/19/11
Northwest:
--Washington Pass is being cleared and may open Memorial Day Weekend, but with daily avalanches, WSDOT is having to work twice as hard, clearing areas more than once. To read more, click here.
--Our condolences go out to Tucker Taffe's family and friends. While ascending on skis up Mount Rainier with three friends, Tucker took a 100-150 foot fatal crevasse fall. It wasn't until the skier behind him found a ski and realized what had happened. The team was unroped. To read more, click here.
Sierra:
--California state parks officials announced Friday that the budget deficit would cause closure of 70 state parks next year. In January, Governor Brown issued a budget proposal that reduced spending on state parks by $11 million this fiscal year and $22 million next year, when the parks will start to shut down. To read more, click here.
Desert Southwest:
--Utah's Zion National Park officials are planning to burn about 50 acres to control invasive wild grasses. The prescribed burns will help restore an ecosystem that helps native grasses grow. Those native grasses are more fire-resistant and better suited to the environment in the park. To read more, click here.
Alaska:
--A Mountain Trip team had an accident near the summit ridge of Denali. A rope team of one guide and three clients fell near the ridge, and one of the climbers sustained a broken leg. While the guide worked to secure the injured climber in a bivy sack at 19, 500 feet, the two other climbers began the descent. One climber never made it back to high camp and died. To read more, click here, here and here.
--A second Denali fatality happened on Monday. An Italian climber who tumbled to his death on North America's highest mountain was not using ropes and snow anchors as advised on a deceptively dangerous section of trail on Mount McKinley, a ranger said Tuesday. To read more, click here and here.
Himalaya:
--A Nepalese Sherpa on Wednesday broke his own record for most climbs of Mount Everest by scaling the world's tallest peak for the 21st time. To read more, click here.
--A Japanese climber who became ill while attempting to scale Mount Everest died just several hundred feet (meters) from the summit, a Nepalese official said Friday. To read more, click here.
-- Long-time Roseville, CA coach and former construction company owner Rick Hitch died Sunday while climbing at the 23,000 foot level of Mt. Everest. Hitch had climbed the highest peaks on six continents and was trying to climb Mt. Everest to complete all seven peaks, known as the Seven Summits. To read more, click here.
-- Altitude sickness killed an 82-year-old former Nepalese foreign minister who died this week attempting to become the oldest person to climb Mount Everest. Shailendra Kumar Upadhyaya died on Monday afternoon, just hours after arriving at camp one in his record attempt. To read more, click here.
Notes from All Over:
-- New Zealand's winter season is kicking off and Mrs. Betty Main, age 82, was in line on Tuesday to reviece her free ski pass. "From 75 you don't have to pay. It's my very favourite four-letter word beginning with F - free," Mrs Main said. To read more, click here.
-- Kim Hall and Jewel Lund know their way around mountains. Both women are skilled skiers. And yet they were no match Wednesday for a steep, icy slope. Jewel slipped and tumbled down roughly 1,000 feet. Kim tried to go to her aid and didn’t fair much better. To read more, click here.
-- Search-and-rescue teams in Carbon County (Montana) on Wednesday found four backcountry skiers who were stranded in the East Rosebud drainage Tuesday night. Jon Trapp, Carbon County Search and Rescue coordinator, said the skiers — from Canada, Italy and Idaho — used an emergency beacon at 6 p.m. Tuesday to let authorities know that they were stranded near Rimrock Lake and needed a helicopter. To read more, click here.
-- American Alpine Club Executive Director Phil Powers was seriously injured in Clear Creek Canyon near Denver, CO. After falling approximately 50 feet, Phil sustain injuries that required a helicopter evacuation. To read more, click here and here.
Wednesday, May 18, 2011
Conditions Report - May 18 2011
NORTHWEST:
--Here's an update from the WSDOT regarding Hwy 20: The question we were asked the most, “When are you going to open the highway?” We had the same answer for everyone, “The hope is by Memorial Day, but we don’t have a target date yet. As soon as we know, you’ll know.” It’s very difficult to pin down an opening date at this point. Yes, from the looks of the map, both teams appear to be very close to one another. They’re less than 6 miles apart, but the 6 miles between Rainy and Washington passes pose a lot of challenges (like being 4,900 to 5,500 feet in elevation). The biggest obstacles this week (on the east side) were all the new avalanches in places where we’d already cleared the highway. It was like we’d take one step forward and then two steps back.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Conditions in the range will be available as our dispatches come in. Please go to our Dispatch Blog for the most updated information.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- The Bureau of Land Management, Red Rock / Sloan Field Office will be holding its monthly open house this Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 2:00 - 7:00 pm. It will take place at the Red Rock Canyon Visitor Center classroom. Entrance fees will be waived for those attending starting at 1:00 pm; please tell the attendant at the Fee Station that you are coming in for the open house. The open houses are being held to give the public an opportunity to meet staff, get information about projects and planning, and ask questions about the management of Red Rock Canyon and Sloan Canyon National Conservation Areas and Walking Box Ranch. The topic for this month's open house is “Recreational Opportunities for Bicyclists and Mountain Bikers”. Please see the attachment for the agenda and details.
--The trail to Kraft boulders has seen some recent work. Please use the new trail!
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times. It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full. Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit." And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.
--The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle. Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase. Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out. Annual passes are available for $30.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
--Here's an update from the WSDOT regarding Hwy 20: The question we were asked the most, “When are you going to open the highway?” We had the same answer for everyone, “The hope is by Memorial Day, but we don’t have a target date yet. As soon as we know, you’ll know.” It’s very difficult to pin down an opening date at this point. Yes, from the looks of the map, both teams appear to be very close to one another. They’re less than 6 miles apart, but the 6 miles between Rainy and Washington passes pose a lot of challenges (like being 4,900 to 5,500 feet in elevation). The biggest obstacles this week (on the east side) were all the new avalanches in places where we’d already cleared the highway. It was like we’d take one step forward and then two steps back.
--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.
--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.
--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.
--Forecast for Mount Rainier.
-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.
--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.
--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.
--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.
--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.
--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.
SIERRA:
--Here is an "update" on the Tioga Pass plowing.
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Here is an "update" on the Tioga Pass plowing.
--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.
--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.
ALASKA RANGE:
--Conditions in the range will be available as our dispatches come in. Please go to our Dispatch Blog for the most updated information.
RED ROCK CANYON:
-- The Bureau of Land Management, Red Rock / Sloan Field Office will be holding its monthly open house this Thursday, May 19, 2011 at 2:00 - 7:00 pm. It will take place at the Red Rock Canyon Visitor Center classroom. Entrance fees will be waived for those attending starting at 1:00 pm; please tell the attendant at the Fee Station that you are coming in for the open house. The open houses are being held to give the public an opportunity to meet staff, get information about projects and planning, and ask questions about the management of Red Rock Canyon and Sloan Canyon National Conservation Areas and Walking Box Ranch. The topic for this month's open house is “Recreational Opportunities for Bicyclists and Mountain Bikers”. Please see the attachment for the agenda and details.
--The trail to Kraft boulders has seen some recent work. Please use the new trail!
--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.
--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.
--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.
--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.
--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.
JOSHUA TREE:
--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.
--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.
-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times. It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full. Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit." And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.
--The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle. Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase. Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out. Annual passes are available for $30.
ALPS:
--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.
--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Finger Injuries in Climbing
The hangboard.
It sits above the doorway in the office, taunting me. It sits above the doorway, daring me to train. It sits above the doorway, and stares me down. It sits above the doorway...
I can't help it. I'm a climber. It's in my genes. I have to hang on it. I have to do pull-ups on it. I have to climb.
But the reality is that hanging on a hangboard is not climbing. Hangboards are supposed to be for training. In truth hangboards are one of the best ways climbers have devised to obtain sports injuries.
I know only too well. One day I succumbed to the devious taunts of the board and began to train on it. I succumbed and pulled something in my ring finger.
After doing a little research I discovered that I probably injured one of the pulleys in my finger. A great website called climbinginjuries.com provided me with everything that I needed to know in order to get better. They indicated that I had a pulley injury in my finger and they identified three levels of pulley injury.
These injuries can be quite serious. Some people may require months to recover from a Grade III pulley rupture. Climbinginjuries.com has a prescribed method for treatment:
--Jason D. Martin
It sits above the doorway in the office, taunting me. It sits above the doorway, daring me to train. It sits above the doorway, and stares me down. It sits above the doorway...
I can't help it. I'm a climber. It's in my genes. I have to hang on it. I have to do pull-ups on it. I have to climb.
But the reality is that hanging on a hangboard is not climbing. Hangboards are supposed to be for training. In truth hangboards are one of the best ways climbers have devised to obtain sports injuries.
I know only too well. One day I succumbed to the devious taunts of the board and began to train on it. I succumbed and pulled something in my ring finger.
After doing a little research I discovered that I probably injured one of the pulleys in my finger. A great website called climbinginjuries.com provided me with everything that I needed to know in order to get better. They indicated that I had a pulley injury in my finger and they identified three levels of pulley injury.
- Grade III: A grade three injury usually involves a complete rupture of the pulley creating bowstringing of the tendon. Symptoms of this severe soft tissue injury includes local pain in the pulley, swelling or even bruising, pain when squeezing, pain when extending the finger, and most disturbingly those who get this injury often hear a pop inside their finger.
- Grade II: A grade two injury is identified by a partial rupture of the pulley tendon. This injury is characterized by local pain at the pulley, pain when squeezing and occasionally pain when extending a finger.
- Grade I: A grade one injury is characterized by local pain at the pulley, pain when squeezing and a sprain of the finger ligaments (collateral ligaments).
These injuries can be quite serious. Some people may require months to recover from a Grade III pulley rupture. Climbinginjuries.com has a prescribed method for treatment:
Go buy some TheraPutty! All orthopedic doctors and physical therapists will recommend putty as a tool for successful recovery. (2) The fingers generally receive poor blood flow so getting blood to the injured area is important. Contrast baths have had mixed results in the literature, but it wouldn't hurt to try. To do a contrast bath, get a bowl of warm water, and cold water. Put injured finger in cold water for a few minutes, then place it immediately in the warm water for a few minutes. Repeat 3-5 times. Finish with the cold water. This could be done after squeezing the putty ball to "flush out" the injured joint. Massaging the effected area can be effective as well. Start out lightly and gradually increase the pressure.Pulleys
- Grade III: - Immediately- Stop climbing Apply ice or cold immediately, no more than 15 minutes at a time (1-2 days) Take ibuprofen for 1- 2 day Keep the hand elevated Week 1-2 Don't climb! Don't immobilize the finger. Unless there is a lot of pain, open and close your hand often VERY light massage at the site of the injury. Concentrate on other aspects of your life. Week 4-8 Warm the hands by use of a bath or an electric blanket, then squeeze the yellow (softest) putty. Don't push it, if there's pain…stop. Repeat a few times per day. Go to Grade II Treatment.
- Grade II: (Week 1-2) No climbing Warm the hands by use of a bath or an electric blanket, then squeeze the red putty. Don't push it, if there's pain…stop. Repeat a few times per day. Lubricate and lightly massage at the site of the injury. (Week 3-6) Tape the injured finger, stretch your forearms (this relieves the stress on the finger tendons) and climb the biggest holds you can find. Start easy, this will be the quickest way to recovery. If you climb too hard, too fast, then return to the start of Grade 2 and do not collect $200. Always stretch your forearms after warming up and prior to climbing. Start squeezing the medium to firm putty. Lubricate and massage the finger at the site of the injury a couple of times/day. Start lightly and gradually increase the intensity using very short strokes on the injured site. Go to Grade I Treatment
- Grade I (Week 1) Tape the injured finger and continue to climb at a level well below your normal level. Gradually increase the stresses on the fingers. Stretch your forearms after warming up and prior to climbing. This relieves the stress on the finger tendons. Squeeze the medium to firm putty a few times per day. Lubricate and massage the finger at the site of the injury. Start light and gradually increase intensity. Very short strokes on the injured site. Expected outcome Take advice from a practitioner who specializes in climbing. However, if treated early and effectively, with an appropriately graded return to activity, recovery will usually take 3-8 weeks. However, if the injury is pushed beyond its stage of recovery, re-injury will occur and may result in a chronic injury that will require a much more protracted rehabilitation period.
The best way to recover from a finger injury is to avoid getting hurt in the first place. Here are a few rules to live by:
- Always warm up on easy climbs. Don't jump straight onto the hardest thing you can get up.
- Stretch your fingers.
- Don't overtrain. If you are climbing hard then you should probably avoid climbing every day. Strong sport climbers will often climb every other day.
- Stretch your fingers again.
- Massage your forearms between burns.
- Stretch your fingers more.
--Jason D. Martin
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