Search Underway for Missing Climbers

The American Alpine Institute just received the following email from Denali National Park:

Denali National Park and Preserve officials initiated an aerial and ground search on June 29 for an overdue solo climber on Mt. McKinley.  Juergen Kanzian, age 41 of Koetschach-Mauthen, Austria was last seen at 8:00 pm on June 27 while ascending to Denali Pass at 18,000 feet on the West Buttress route.  When Kanzian had not returned to his tent at the 17,200-foot high camp by 8:00 pm the following night, a guided team alerted NPS rangers at the 14,200-foot camp.

Kanzian, a mountaineering guide in the Alps, was last seen on skis and had told other climbers he intended to ski from the summit via the standard West Buttress route.  It is unknown how much survival gear and supplies Kanzian was carrying, although he was wearing warm clothing and was believed to be carrying a satellite phone.  Weather conditions at the time of his disappearance included low to moderate winds, some cloud cover, and temperatures between 0 to 5 degrees Fahrenheit.  In the two days prior to his disappearance, rangers at high camp recorded several feet of new snow.

On Wednesday morning, June 29, NPS rangers began ground investigations and searching with a spotting scope, while several guided and independent climbing teams headed towards the summit were on alert for clues to Kanzian’s whereabouts.  On Wednesday afternoon, two air resources were launched in the search effort, including Denali’s A-Star B3 helicopter and a Pilatus PC-12 fixed wing aircraft from the Aviation Branch of the Bureau of Land Management (BLM).   In six flight hours focused at upper elevations and along the West Buttress route, there were no initial signs of the Austrian mountaineer, however hundreds of high resolution photos were taken and are currently being examined for clues.

The aerial, ground, and photographic search resumed early Thursday morning, and is expected to continue as weather permits.

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 6/30/11

Northwest:

--A 62-year old hiker is recovering at Harborview Medical Center tonight after she slipped down the side of a mountain and then slid off a 40-foot cliff. The woman's climbing partner, Bryan Harris, said she was extremely fortunate to be alive. To read more, click here.


--Last summer, AAI guides Tom Kirby and Jason Martin helped rig stunts for a documentary about the 1911 race from Bellingham to the top of Mount Baker.  The first trailer for "The Mountain Runners" is now online. The film is projected to be released in the spring of 2012.  To view the trailer, click on the video below:



--For many years a large flake has hung over the Birds of Prey, a classic 5.10b in Squamish.  A couple of local climbers took it upon themselves to remove this deathblock and to videotape said removal.  Following is a video of the two ton trundle.  If you only want to watch the block fall, you can see it in the video at approximately 1:54:



Sierra:

--An accident took place on the Regular Route of Fairview Dome on Friday. A climber was leading the second pitch when he fell and hit the belay ledge, breaking his leg. The party was able to self-rescue.  To read more, click here.

--Three bears have been hit by cars in Yosemite Valley over the last week.  They were respectively hit at Chinquapin, at Crane Flat, and near El Capitan. To read more, click here.

--Well, it looks like Bigfoot left some DNA on a truck window after looking inside. Of course, bears in the Sierra are trained from birth to look in every vehicle for a cooler. They know where the good stuff is.  Check out the report at the Huffingtonpost on the Bigfoot DNA and for a slideshow with many grainy images of the beast. To read more, click here.  Below is a video that these individuals took. Based on the video, I'm guessing that there's not a rocket scientist or a brain surgeon among the group...



--Above average snow and rain makes this a dangerously high water year for the Owens Valley and entire Eastern Sierra. To read more, click here.

--A word of caution from Caltrans – slow down and watch for deer.  Last month, migrating deer crossed paths with several vehicles.  Caltrans has just issued tips for avoiding animals on the road. To read more, click here.

--The fire season has started in the Sierra.  Check out this report on Yosemite.

Desert Southwest:

--Is it possible that climate change will push joshua trees out of Joshua Tree National Park?  Some scientists think so.  To read more, click here.

Alaska:

--AAI Denali Team 7 is battling difficult weather, trying to move up the mountain to complete the last expedition of the season.  To read more, click here.

Himalaya:

--A man who climbed Everest found the body of his friend who had died on the mountain just below the summit only months before. Rodney Hogg saw the body of his friend Peter Kinlock on a ledge approximately 1000 feet below the summit as he climbed.  To read more, click here.

--The first major success of the 2011 Pakistan summer season fell to a team of four Russians, who have just made the first ascent of the West Face of Latok III (22,798'). Climbing in capsule style, Evgeny Dmitrienko, Ivan Dozhdev, Alex Lonchinsky and t Alexander Odintsov spent from June 10th-25th ascending the left side of the 5,500-foot face, completing a line that Odintsov has tried twice before. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--On Sunday, a British hiker discovered the bodies of six climbers in the French alps. The identities of the climbers, three men and three women, have not been released yet, but they are thought to be French.  To read more, click here.

--Grand Teton National Park rangers rescued a 47-year-old woman who fell while climbing in Cascade Canyon on Saturday.  It appears that the woman fell on the fifth pitch of a six pitch route on Guide's Wall.  To read more, click here.

--National Park Service investigators continue to probe the death of an Alabama man killed June 15 after he fell 100 feet to his death while rock climbing along the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia, and authorities are now seeking the public's assistance in gathering information.  Jonathan Sullivan, 20, of Tuscaloosa, Alabama, died while scaling Ravens Roost Overlook with two friends. To read more, click here.

--Six days after falling from a cliff near Chapel Pond Saturday, a Vermont woman was in fair condition this morning at Fletcher Allen Health Care in Burlington, Vt.  Rebecca Martin, 28, of Winooski, Vt., was climbing with a partner on the Creature Wall in the Giant Mountain Wilderness Area near Keene Valley. Estimates vary on the height from which she fell. To read more, click here.

--The American Alpine Club and the Zack Martin Breaking Barriers committee awarded the 2011 grant to Asa Firestone to establish a climbing community within one of the “favelas” (slums) of Rio De Janerio. To read more, click here.

--The New York state Senate passed legislation last week that would allow for the creation of a state Department of Environmental Conservation volunteer forest ranger rescue program.  "Finding someone missing in the Adirondacks requires feet on the ground and the more the better," said state Sen. Betty Little,said in a press release. To read more, click here.

--Colorado residents Erik Weihenmayer and Jeff Evans have been climbing mountains -- including the tallest peak on Earth -- together for twenty years, and Thursday night they're taking their passion for adventurous extremes to reality television.  "Expedition Impossible" is a new adventure show on ABC featuring 13 teams racing through the deserts, rivers and mountains of Morocco. Each week teams of three will compete for $150,000 and a new Ford Explorer for each member. To read more, click here.

--The Canadian Extreme Sports athlete, Will Gadd, has written an interesting article about getting sponsored.  To read it, click here.

--Climbing meets Netflix.  It was bound to happen.  To download or order movies from a new website that uses this model, click here. 

--Last week, Jenny Lake climbing rangers Drew Hardesty and Brian Hays experienced a first in their climbing careers. Two peregrine falcons swooped through the air, at times coming within 15 feet of them. Hardesty and Hays set out for a quick trip up Baxter’s Pinnacle in Grand Teton National Park. As they approached the pinnacle, situated in Cascade Canyon, they watched a pair of peregrine falcons they’d heard about. Throughout the climb the birds squawked in what seemed annoyance at the climbers, Hays said. A few times the falcons became more aggressive and Hays wondered if they’d intentionally hit the climbers as they came within about 15 feet. To read more, click here.

Conditions Report -- June 29 2011

 NORTHWEST:

--Notes from various guides:

The North Ridge was in great condition and sounded like it doesn't present any obvious difficulties.

Parties are continuing to ski the Coleman Headwall.

 Mt. Baker, 6/25. Photo Credit Dyan Padagas.

The Glacier Creek Road is now open to the sign which states that you must have a Northwest Forest Pass. The road is clear of snow and you can now park at the trailhead.

Early Winters Campground only allows 2 tents per site this year.

-- AAI guides Kevin Hogan and Chris Benson, and Program Coordinator Dyan Padagas did the Coleman Headwall over the weekend. Most snice with some nevee at the top. Click here for the trip report.  


--Check out this trip report for an interesting Mt. Hood route (Steel Cliff or Steel Cliffs?). 



--Check out this recent trip report for Colchuck area conditions.

-- Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

-- Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

-- Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

-- Forecast for Mount Rainier.

-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

-- Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

-- Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

-- Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

-- An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

-- Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA:

-- Some really awesome pictures of Yosemite can be found here.


-- There's still a snowy approach at Crystal Crag. Click here for more info. 

-- For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

-- Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.

ALASKA RANGE:

-- Conditions in the range will be available as our dispatches come in. Please go to our Dispatch Blog for the most updated information.

RED ROCK CANYON:

-- Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

-- Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

-- The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

-- The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:

-- Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times.  It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full.  Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit."  And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.

-- The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle.  Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase.  Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out.  Annual passes are available for $30.

ALPS:

-- Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

-- Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

New Report Shows America's National Parks are in Jeopardy!

The American Alpine Institute just received the following press release from the National Parks Conservation Association.

National Parks Conservation Association Says Obama Administration Must Address Threats Facing National Parks and Develop Comprehensive Long Term Plan for Parks

WASHINGTON, D.C – New research released today by the nonprofit National Parks Conservation Association (NPCA) provides the first ever broad look at how America’s national parks are faring in the face of pollution, invasive species, climate change, energy development, adjacent land development and chronic funding shortfalls. A decade in the making, the report – The State of America’s National Parks – represents the most comprehensive overview yet performed on resource conditions in America’s national parks.

NPCA’s Center for Park Research wrote the report based on its studies on resource conditions at 80 national parks across the country, a 20 percent sample of the 394 parks in the National Park System.  The report finds that long-standing and new threats are impacting wildlife and water and air quality within our national parks. The historic sites that tell the story of the Civil War, the civil rights movement and the evolution of America’s diverse culture are also suffering, mostly because of a lack of funding. “Our national parks are places we go for reflection, inspiration, and connection to our national heritage – they are places we as Americans decided to protect to showcase where America’s story has unfolded. But new data shows that our national parks are in serious jeopardy,” said Tom Kiernan, president of the National Parks Conservation Association. “As we approach the 2016 centennial of the National Park Service, we have a responsibility to ensure our American treasures are preserved and protected for the future.”

Air, Water, Wildlife at Risk
The assessment revealed stark realities, including the loss of native plants and animals from park landscapes. Ninety-five percent of parks assessed had at least one wildlife or plant species that had disappeared from the area, including large predators such as gray wolves, mountain lions, and grizzly bears. In places such as Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, invasive plants and animals are crowding out native species, some of which are now extinct. Air and water quality in the parks are also suffering. More than half of the parks studied (63%) have compromised air quality conditions. Numerous parks, such as Gateway National Recreation Area and Big Hole National Battlefield, also reported serious water quality issues, including contamination and depleted water resources that affected the entire ecosystem.

The majority of threats to natural resources stemmed from human activities, including development on lands adjacent to national parks that is negatively impacting resources inside park boundaries.

“From Grand Canyon to the Great Smoky Mountains, mining, energy production, roads, and housing projects on adjacent lands are fragmenting wildlife habitat, diminishing air quality, disrupting cultural landscapes, and contaminating water resources,” said Kiernan.

Climate Change Threatens Survival of Iconic Species
The report also indicates that climate change is a systemic threat to the iconic flora and fauna of many national parks—the Joshua trees of Joshua Tree National Park and the redwoods of Muir Woods National Monument and Redwood National Park among them. Rising sea levels due to climate disruption threaten to inundate coastal archaeological sites in Katmai National Park and Preserve in Alaska.  And at Isle Royale National Park, significant changes in the quantity of snow could impact moose-wolf dynamics and threaten the survival of both species in this wilderness park.

Historic Artifacts and Cultural Treasures in Peril
An often forgotten mission of the National Park Service is that of curator and keeper of America’s historic artifacts and cultural gems. Two-thirds of the 394 units in the National Park System were designated to protect important historic or cultural sites, but rarely does the agency have enough trained staff – or receive the funding – to properly care for them.

The report found that in more than 90 percent of the parks surveyed, cultural resources were found to be in deficient condition. The Park Service estimates that more than 60 percent of the 27,000 historic structures are in need of repair or maintenance. Many parks lack adequate documentation and research on their cultural resources, and their artifacts are being insufficiently monitored—meaning that theft and deterioration may go unnoticed.

Chronic funding shortfalls have prevented many park sites from having enough trained professionals to oversee their cultural resources. Our national parks suffer from an annual operations shortfall of more than $600 million. With too few staff to watch over them, some prehistoric sites and battlefields continue to be looted, historic buildings are neglected, and museum collections are left unorganized. Historic structures are in need of care and repair, but the work often gets deferred. Almost 30 percent of the assessed parks reported deferred maintenance costs in excess of $1 million.

Reasons for Hope – What’s Working Now
Yet the report shows that despite the challenges facing our national parks, many of the parks assessed have developed management approaches to effectively address the erosion of natural and cultural resources.  For example, a vessel management plan at Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve helps protect marine mammals from being struck by ships. And the removal of non-native species and a captive breeding program have helped restore Channel Islands’ native island fox population. Research at a number of parks shows that when National Park Service staff have sufficient financial support, up-to-date scientific information, and adequate training, positive stories of resources protection are abundant.

A Call To Action
While the Parks Service looks to its 95th anniversary and the next century, advocates continue to point to simple, straightforward solutions to address the challenges facing our national parks. Report recommendations suggest that the Obama Administration must develop a comprehensive long term plan for the parks that reduces threats from energy development and other adjacent uses, enforces air quality laws, and monitors water quality. In addition, long term protection is dependent on fully funding the National Park Service, the federal agency tasked with overseeing the parks and their assets. The full list of recommendations can be found at www.npca.org/cpr/sanp/SANP-summary-WEB.pdf.

NPCA is also calling on the Obama Administration to issue an Executive Order to recommit federal resources and policies to preparing our parks for the next century by reintroducing native wildlife, implementing climate change adaptation and mitigation, better managing large landscapes to conserve and restore ecosystems, improving the condition of cultural resources, and incorporating under-represented themes of American history and cultural diversity. 

“The State of America’s National Parks report is our wakeup call. The natural and historical treasures that Americans value have been vulnerable for too long. This is a turning point in the history of our parks, and we must not break the promise that past generations made to our children and grandchildren,” said Kiernan.

To view a full copy of the report, please visit: www.npca.org/cpr/sanp/. To download report photos:  www.flickr.com/photos/30346074@N04/sets/72157626889633691/

###

About National Parks Conservation Association (NPCA): Since 1919, the nonpartisan National Parks Conservation Association has been the leading voice of the American people in the fight to safeguard our National Park System. NPCA, its members, and partners work together to protect the park system and preserve our nation’s natural, historical, and cultural heritage for our children and grandchildren.

Rock Climbing Styles

Many beginning level climbers are confused by the terminology used to define different styles of climbing. This isn't too surprising because there are a lot of terms that get thrown around. The following is a quick discussion of the different types and styles of climbing and what they entail.


Toprope Climbing

When a climber uses the term "toprope," he is referring to a technique wherein an anchor is set at the top of the cliff. A rope runs from a belayer at the base of the cliff, up to the anchor and then back down to the climber. As the climber ascends the wall, the belayer takes in rope through his belay device. If the climber falls, the belayer merely locks off his device, arresting the fall. This system is designed to stop the climber's fall immediately.

Toproped climbing is very safe because no one is required to "lead." In most cases, climbers are simply able walk around to the top of a cliff in order to set-up the system.

Lead Climbing

The leader is the first person to climb a cliff. As the leader ascends the wall he drags a rope up that is tied to his harness. As he works his way up a wall he will put in rock protection. After the "pro" is in place, the leader may clip the rope into the gear while the follower belays from below. Should the leader fall, the follower will "catch" him in midair with the belay device.

Of course, if the leader falls 10 feet above the last piece of protection, he will actually fall 20 feet or more before the follower catches him. That makes the leader's job quite risky. Once the leader is on top, he may build an anchor, clip into it and put his partner on belay, essentially providing the follower a toprope.

Lead climbing may be done on both traditional and sport climbs.
 

Free Climbing

Free climbing does not mean, "without a rope." Conversely, free climbing absolutely requires a rope. The defining characteristic of free climbing is that it does not require an individual to pull on protection. The protection exists to keep a climber from hitting the ground should he fall, not to aid the climber on his ascent.

Aid Climbing

 The polar opposite of free climbing is aid climbing. When an individual aid climbs, he places a piece of protection and then clips a nylon ladder to it. He then climbs up the ladder and places another piece, repeating the process over and over again. The climber is using direct aid to ascend the cliff face. This is often done when it is much too difficult to free climb.

Big routes in Zion National Park and in Yosemite National Park are commonly aided. These are the massive routes that sometimes require portaledges or bivies on the wall. Big wall aid climbing is in many ways analogous to vertical backpacking. And while most big wall climbs require some free climbing, they tend to lean toward direct aid.

 
Free Soloing
 

Free soloing is the art of climbing without any ropes whatsoever. A fall under these circumstances will result in serious injury or death. Free soloing is incredibly dangerous and is only practiced by a small percentage of climbers.

Trad Climbing
 

Traditional climbing, or "trad" climbing, is a style of climbing that requires the leader to carry all of his protection with him. In other words, the leader carries an array of camming devices, wired nuts and other assorted odds and ends that might be used to protect the route. Traditionalists will not alter to rock in order to create protection for the leader. In other words, a true traditional route does not have any bolts on it.

Sport Climbing
   

Sport climbing is a style of climbing that requires significantly less equipment than trad climbing. A sport climb is a route manufactured with bolts. A true sport climb does not require any traditional gear at all.

Many consider sport climbing to be much safer than trad climbing because in most cases the routes have been manufactured in such a way that they are safe for a leader. As a result, this is an incredibly popular form of climbing.

Conclusion

Climbing is an incredibly varied sport and the preceding is only the most elemental breakdown of it from a stylistic perspective. That said, an understanding of this beginner level material will help the novice climber to understand the many conversations about style that take place in the climbing world every day.
 

--Jason D. Martin

Fall: From Glory to Grace

The well-regarded Canadian climber and athlete, Will Gadd, has one of the most informative climbing and training blogs on the net. Through Gravsports, Gadd brings us an array of tips, techniques, and commentary on the world of climbing.

It was through his blog that we that we became aware of the video, Fall: From Glory to Grace. In this film, we watch a man take a very serious ice climbing fall and then we watch him walk away from it.  The video production is well-done, but the team's assessment of the fall and what lead to it and how to avoid such a situation in the future is poorly thought out.

On Gadd's blog, he analyzes each of the elements that lead to the accident. We have done a round-up of these points below the video.





Here is a breakdown of the mistakes made:

• --First and foremost, ice climbing is a sport where falling is NOT acceptable.  Sure, it's okay to fall on top-rope, but it is definitely not okay to fall on lead.  In some rock climbing situations, it's okay to fall on lead, but even there one can get hurt.  With twenty-four sharp points on your feet, and five sharp points in your hands, there is a lot that can puncture you or catch on the ice, forcing a limb to bend in a way that it wasn't meant to bend.
• --The placement of gear in ice climbing is meant to keep you from taking a ground fall.  It is not meant to keep you safe in a small fall.
• --Leaders should be comfortable on the terrain that they are leading prior to climbing a given pitch.  There is nothing wrong with top-roping at the grade until you're comfortable.  Leading adds a lot of extra stressors.  One has to place screws, think about where the route's going, etc.
• --Top-roping will also help with technique.  Gadd points out that many of the climber's tool placements are subpar and that his footwork is terrible.
• --One should practice clipping into the tool.  There are many ways to do this.  At one point in the video, we can see one of the climbers that assisted the injured showing them how to deal with such a situation.  If you can clip into the tool, then you will have the ability to place a screw.  In Gadd's response the video, he writes, "stop before you get super pumped, put in a good screw, reset, maybe back off if you can't climb the pitch without getting super pumped. Or, climb it in five-foot sections putting in a screw and hanging; I have FAR more respect for someone who doe that than gets pumped and falls off. If you're super pumped stop, reset. No "free" pitch is worth getting injured for."
• --The belayer talks about putting slack in his anchor system so that he can easily move out of the way if there's icefall.  He should have built his belay in a place where there was no icefall to begin with.  In a single pitch setting, this is very easy to do.
• --The belayer is also belaying the leader with a GiGi. This device is not designed to belay leaders.
• --The climber is wearing a Black Diamond Bod Harness. It appears that the harness is not double-backed. He is very lucky that he didn't simply slide right out of his harness after the fall.
  

People make mistakes in the mountains. I've made them and you've made them too. We all have. But if you're reading this right now, you got away with your mistake. This guy was also able to walk away from his. And indeed, it is likely that this video's existence on the internet will help him to grow as a climber.

I hope that re-posting this will help everyone in their growth and in their self assessment. I think that it is important to look at every day of climbing as a learning experience. There is no doubt that this is a dangerous sport. And it could be argued that the only way to keep playing the game is to constantly self assess and to constantly learn from every mistake, big and small...

--Jason D. Martin

Weekend Warrior -- Videos to get you stoked!

We've got a very special collection of videos this week that are guaranteed to satisfy your hunger for the stoke.  Since the weather has been drying up in the Northwest I decided it was time to highlight one of the great climbing areas close to home, Squamish.  These amazing granite cliffs to the north offer some of the best climbing around but don't take my word for it...check out the videos!

The first video on the line-up features an inspirational story of a quadriplegic on a mission to climb the Grand Wall.  With pure dedication, a lot of ingenuity, and a bit of support he is able to make an attempt at the huge granite face.  Does he make it...watch and find out!

The second video showcases the first ascent of the infamous Dreamcatcher on the Cacodemon Boulder.  Watch as the gravity defying Chris Sharma sends this incredible, seemingly impossible line.  I don't know how he does it...maybe it's the loud screaming whenever he gets pumped.  I think I'll give it a shot next time I'm at the crags.

The final video is my personal gift to all of you.  We had to dig into the archives for this little gem of a video, which is probably the greatest music video ever made...seriously, this thing is pure gold!  Watch as David Lee Roth transforms himself from a hip-thrusting, roundhouse kick throwing (eat your heart out Chuck Norris) rock and roll superstar into a pendulum swinging, tyrollean traversing Yosemite rock climber.  Let's not forgot David's exit off-stage at the end of this video..pure genius.

David Lee Roth - Just Like Paradise

July and August Climbing Events

-- June 25 - 26 -- Mazama, WA -- AAC's RockFest 2011 with Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope

-- July 6 - 10 -- Lander, WY -- International Climber's Festival 

-- July 13 - 17 -- Squamish, BC -- Squamish Mountain Festival 

-- July 13 - 16 -- Norway -- World Base Race 

-- July 14 - 18 -- New River Gorge, Vest Virginia -- Homo Climbtastic 

-- July 16 -- Eldorado Spings, Co -- Zanskar Odyssey Flim presented by the American Alpine Club 

-- August 1-6 -- Stockholm, Sweden -- Stockholm Climbing Festival
 
--August 4-7 -- Salt Lake City, Utah -- Outdoor Retailer Show

--August 19-21 -- Adirondacks, NY -- Chicks Climbing

St. Elias Expedition: June 12 – 25 Dispatch #8 Flying Out

St. Elias Expedition:  June 12 – 25 

Guide:  Tom Kirby

Climbers:  Carmie Hull (Del Mar, California), Doug Wilson (Aloha, Oregon)

Tom Kirby called in with the following dispatch at 3:00pm on June 24^th:

“Hi! It’s Tom again. Today we flew out from the glacier at about 11 this morning. It looked like a warm front was settling in, so we decided to fly out today rather than risk the bad weather from missing our chance out. Right now, we’re at the lodge hanging out until 5 – that’s when our pilot will com take us back to Chintina. We’ll probably camp somewhere around there or between there and Anchorage, then make the rest of the drive to anchorage the next day. In any case, we really had a great trip! Yesterday was a great way to end it. We could see everything and it was unreal. Depsite the trouble with warm weather and snow conditions, we made the most of it, and really enjoyed each other’s company. I had a fantastic time. I’ll call again tomorrow just to confirm we’re home safe.”

 

Snow Climbing Techniques: The Butt-Axe Belay

We recently ran an article on the stomper belay, a snow climbing belay technique.  In the vein of continuing to explore snow climbing belay techniques, we decided that we should spend some time on the butt-axe technique.

No.  Not the buttocks technique...the butt-axe technique. So wipe that smirk off your face!

Seriously, the butt-axe technique is a good secure snow belay for steep terrain.  This is an excellent technique for forty to fifty-degree steep snow.  Part of the reason that it is so good, is that it is extremely fast.

The reason that this is referred to as a butt-axe belay is because after the axe is placed vertically in the snow, and a bite of rope is clipped to the axe, the climber must sit down on the head of the tool.  After he sits, he will kick his heels in to create a better snow seat on top of the axe.

The climber is generally tied in directly to the end of the rope.  He measures one to two feet of rope out from his harness and then clips it into the head of the axe.  Once he's done this, he can sit down on it.  A loop of rope is created coming from his harness to the axe.  This loop becomes a new belay loop.

In the following picture you can see the loop coming out from the climber's knot to a carabiner with a munter-hitch on it.  The rope then contours back underneath him to the axe.

In the preceding picture, the climber is using a munter-hitch to belay.  It would also be possible to belay from the loop with a device.

The butt-axe belay is super fast, super simple, and super effective.  But like the other techniques described here, it's best to experiment with this belay on low-angle terrain with minimal consequences before employing it in a real setting.  You will want to know exactly how well this works in different kinds of snow prior to putting it to the test in the field.

Snow is one of the most variable mediums that we climb.  It constantly changes, providing us with many different experiences throughout the season.  The more techniques you have in your quiver, the more effective a snow climber you'll be!

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 6/23/11

Northwest:

--On June 12th, a snowmobiler accidentally rode her machine into an open moat on the south side of Mount Baker.  The rider suffered severe injuries and hypothermia, but was ultimately rescued by a combination of Mount Baker Climbing Rangers and AAI Guide David Farkas.  To read more, click here.

--The Forest Service said a helicopter rescued a climber off Mt. Shasta in far northern California after the man was hurt in a fall. USFS Ranger Jon Dove says the man was picked up Monday afternoon by a California Highway Patrol helicopter and taken to Mercy Medical Center in the city of Mt. Shasta. To read more, click here.


--Olympic National Park rangers fatally shot an elk that had been damaging tents and charging at patrol cars around the Hoh Rain Forest. Rangers said that the female elk first made trouble on Friday when it damaged a tent and rammed a patrol car, prompting the closure of the rain forest for the rest of the day. To read more, click here.

--The American Alpine Institute/Cascadeclimbers.com photo contest is in FULL SWING.  Check it out to win free course tuition, here.

--Controversy has arisen over a line bolted near Smith Rock's super popular Super Slab (5.6).  To read the controversy, click here.


Sierra:

--Fifty-one year-old Marcia Rasmussen was walking across a snow bridge spanning a small stream in Sequoia National Park last week when the hard-packed snow beneath her collapsed and she plunged four feet into the swift water.  “There was no warning,” she said. “One second I’m walking on top of snow, the next, I’m in the water.”  Dragged through the narrow icy tunnel carved by the creek, she tumbled down a waterfall before finding branches to stop her. But she was still stuck beneath several feet of snowpack.  To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--BLM officials say they have restored a prehistoric pictograph at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area outside Las Vegas that was defaced by a graffiti vandal last year. To read more, click here.

--Supposedly smart phones are getting smart about national parks. A company recently announced that it released an app – Chimani Zion National Park – for the iPhone and Android platforms.  The Zion National Park app, an indispensable resource for anyone exploring the 7th most visited national park in the United States, delivers a 45 minute audio tour of Zion Canyon, a high-resolution GPS-enabled map, constantly updated ranger led activities, over 75 photos and much more. To read more, click here.


Alaska:

--AAI Denali Team 6 summited on Saturday and has made its way off the mountain.  Denali Team 7 is currently moving up to camp at 14,200 feet.  And the AAI Saint Elias Range expedition has made a first ascent.  To read more, click here.

--Controversy surrounds the new line recently put up in the Alaska Range by Mark Allen and Graham Zimmerman. Arguments have been made that the route doesn't truly climb a new peak and that it isn't as remote as originally reported.  To read more, click here.

--A new line was recently established on Mount Hunter's infamous North Buttress.  The Cartwright Connection (Alaskan Grade 6: 5.8 A2 AI6 M6, 6500') was named for Jules Cartwright, a British mountain guide, who died in an accident in 2004. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Authorities say a climber fell 20 feet from a popular state park route in New Hampshire and broke his leg on June 19th. Fish and Game Sargent Brian Abrams says the man was about 120 feet from the top of Cathedral Ledge on Sunday afternoon when he fell. The climber, 48-year-old Mark Gallagher has a fractured left leg. To read more, click here.

--Eleven years after being held hostage by a militant group in Kyrgyzstan, a professional rock climber is heading back to the Kyrgyz cliffs. In August of 2000, photographer John Dickey embarked on an ascent with three other climbers. Using minimal equipment, they planned to scale cliffs in the Kara-suu Valley of Kyrgyzstan. They were assured that aside from normal mountain hazards, the region otherwise posed no threats to their safety. To read more, click here.

--Rock and Ice magazine has posted an update on the many strange things going on around Three Cups of Tea author Greg Mortenson and the Central Asia Institute since Sixty Minutes produced a scathing report on problems with Mortenson's non-profit.  To read more, click here.

Gear Recalls and Safety Issues:

--Petzl has discovered a major potential danger with the GriGri 2. It appears that under the right circumstances, the lowering lever can stay open and not catch a person.  To learn more about this problem and the recall associated with it, click here.

Conditions Report - June 22, 2011 Happy Summer!

 NORTHWEST:


Reports from various AAI Guides....


-- There's still some minor road work on hwy 20; there may be periodic waits. Washington Pass snow is firming up nicely.


--The NW face of Mt. Shuksan still has considerable avy danger. The summit pyramid is almost totally covered in snow and rime ice; difficult to make anchors. 


--The Early Winters Creek on the approach to Burgundy Col is difficult to cross due to high water from snowmelt. Silver Star is still covered with snow. 

--Attention Mt. Erie Climbers: After consultation with Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife biologists the Peregrine Falcon nesting area has been reopened to rock climbing. It appears that the falcons were unsuccessful in their attempt to reestablish a nest. The area that was previously closed was near the Skyline Arête. Thanks to all who helped us by posting signs around the closure area and encouraging others to observe the voluntary closure area.Please contact me with any questions.  Anacortes Parks and Recreation, 360-299-1953



--Check out this recent trip report for Colchuck area conditions.

-- Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

-- Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

-- Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

-- Forecast for Mount Rainier.

-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

-- Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

-- Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

-- Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

-- An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

-- Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA:


-- Tioga Pass is officially open! Check out this trip report.


-- Check out these amazing (and current) scenic pictures of Yosemite Valley and more. 

-- For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

-- Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.

ALASKA RANGE:

-- Conditions in the range will be available as our dispatches come in. Please go to our Dispatch Blog for the most updated information.

RED ROCK CANYON:

-- Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

-- Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

-- The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

-- The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:

-- Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times.  It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full.  Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit."  And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.

-- The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle.  Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase.  Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out.  Annual passes are available for $30.

ALPS:

-- Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

-- Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

Consumerism and Climbing

I recently watched the excellent documentary, What would Jesus Buy? The film uses a theatrical troupe that poses as an anti-consumerism church as a window into today's shopping-driven lifestyles. This is a very serious topic, but the church and their tactics are also extremely funny. As a result, the sober nature of the subject matter can be addressed in a way that provides a non-confrontational look into how most Americans spend their time and money.

The Church of Stop Shopping is lead by a charismatic man who acts like a faith healer in order to stop people from buying into the need to constantly shop. The Reverend Billy preaches of the shopacalypse, an apocalyptic time when the world will literally collapse in on itself from too much shopping. The Reverend and his choir preach their message in front of Walmart and Starbucks and in churches across America. Check out the trailer below:



The documentary got me thinking. How do we as climbers and as outdoor people buy into the need to constantly get more stuff?

Clearly, based on the climbing and skiing and hiking gear stored in my garage, the Reverend Billy would see me as great sinner. A consumer with too much stuff for my own good.

However, I would argue that I use all my stuff until it wears out. I would argue that I don't spend my days hanging out in shopping malls and I would argue that I'm a fierce advocate for these sports that I love...sports that revolve around getting away from buying more stuff and getting people out to experience the outdoors.

I would also argue that the stuff we buy allows us to experience wild places that need protection. Our ability to see the beauty of these places leads us to become stewards of them, either from afar with our choice of elected officials and our donations to stewardship funds, or from close by with trailwork and litter cleanups. The stuff we as outdoors people buy leads us to be better advocates for wild places.

And indeed, many expeditions go to places where the entire economy is based on visiting climbers and trekkers. Not only do those who visit such places bring money into those communities, but they also bring aid in the guise of schools and medical care. Many who visit these places are so impressed by the people that they support foundations that provide such services to developing countries.

Now clearly, this is my defense of our lifestyles. And it's easy for us to get tunnel vision and to only see what's good for our own selfish interests. Certainly, the person who owns 700 pairs of shoes might have just as good a defense....but then again, maybe not...

--Jason D. Martin

Lynn Hill - Visualization and Patience

In this climbing technique video, world class climber Lynn Hill demonstrates her movement on a world class climb. While she is climbing a 5.13a, she talks about how to be patient and how to visualize the movement while resting.

Most of us won't be climbing 5.13s anytime soon, but that doesn't mean that this advice isn't apt. Lynn's recommendations are just as valid on a 5.6 or a 5.10 as they are on a 5.13.



--Jason D. Martin

June and July Climbing Events

-- June 23 - 26 -- France -- Vibram Natural Games 

-- June 23 -- Salt Lake City, UT -- Black Diamond Equipment Presents 2nd Annual SLCA Fundraiser

-- June 25 - 26 -- Mazama, WA -- AAC's RockFest 2011 with Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope

-- July 6 - 10 -- Lander, WY -- International Climber's Festival 

-- July 13 - 17 -- Squamish, BC -- Squamish Mountain Festival 

-- July 13 - 16 -- Norway -- World Base Race  

-- July 14 - 18 -- New River Gorge, Vest Virginia -- Homo Climbtastic

Weekend Warriors- Videos to get you Stoked!!!

Skiers take on one of the Northwest's Local Summits:  Mount Shuksan.  This video may make you giddy to come ski it this spring!  We can provide a day or two of spring skiing for you on Mount Shuksan or Mount Baker.  Call the office for more details.



Have a great weekend!

Route Profile: Pequeno Alpamayo

Bolivia's Pequeno Alpamayo is one of the prettiest little peaks in the Cordillera Real. The mountain looks a great deal like Peru's Alpamayo, but doesn't have the objective danger or the size of it's namesake. Instead, Pequeno Alpamayo is a striking and accessible peak that can easily be done in a day from the Condoriri basecamp.

There are two major routes on the mountain. The moderate Southwest Ridge and the more difficult Southeast Face. Both lines require four to five pitches of climbing. The Southwest Ridge is primarily forty to fifty degree snow and ice climbing, while the Southeast Face is a bit steeper with terrain that ranges from sixty to seventy degrees.

In 1990, an AAI team established the steeper of the two routes. During the 80s and 90s American Alpine Institute expeditions were responsible for dozens of new routes in the Cordillera Real.

The route selection on Pequeno Alpamayo often takes place based on how one feels. The mountain's summit rises to 17,618 feet above sea level, so the oxygen is a bit thin. Many who might see the Southeast Face as a quick jog will find it to be somewhat more difficult due to the altitude. Climbing steep terrain at 17,000 feet often requires one to take a bit more time on each pitch. This is primarily because climbers tend to take a few breaths between each tool placement.

Both routes are accessed by traversing an adjacent peak. Tarija is 16,601 feet and is often considered an objective in and of itself. This approach to the mountain provides for an excellent view of the potential routes. Many of the striking photos of Pequeno Alpamayo have been taken from Tarija's summit.

Following is a photo essay from a series of ascents of Pequeno Alpamayo:

The classic shot taken from the summit of Tarija.
The Southwest Ridge climbs the obvious ridge.
The Southeast face ascends the steeper terrain to the left of the rocks.
Photo by Miles Newby

A group of climbers descend the Southwest Ridge
Photo by Jason Martin

Two AAI Climbers take a break in the middle of the Southwest Ridge
Photo by Jason Martin

Pequeno Alpamayo from nearby Chachapamapa
The Southeast Face route climbs up to the left of the rocks
Photo by Jason Martin

To learn more about the American Alpine Institute's expeditions to Bolivia, click here.

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 6/16/11

Northwest:

--The 30-year-old climber who was injured while climbing Mount Hood on Thursday was listed in good condition on Friday morning.  Meredith E. Jaques, of Hood River, was transferred to Legacy Emanuel Medical Center Thursday night after being transported to Providence Hood River Memorial Hospital earlier that day after being rescued from the mountain. She is expected to be released sometime today, said a hospital spokeswoman.  To read more, click here.

--A male climber was rescued by Eastside Fire and Rescue after he reportedly fell between 60 to 80 feet from a climbing wall off I-90’s Exit 38 about forty minutes east of Seattle. Eastside Fire & Rescue Battalion Chief Greg Tryon said firefighters received reports of the fall shortly after 5 p.m. The climber was rescued around 7 p.m. after firefighters used ropes to create a lowering system to get him off the rock wall.  To read more, click here.

--A federal grand jury indicted three Methow Valley residents following an investigation into the killing of endangered gray wolves in north-central Washington.  Tom White faces charges of unlawfully hunting an endangered species in the 2008 killings of two wolves. His father, William D. White, later told a Canadian tanner that he had a "really big coyote" skin for processing, according to the indictment filed Tuesday in Spokane's U.S. District Court. To read more, click here.

--More than thirty people stranded behind a mudslide near Leavenworth Friday were rescued Saturday when road crews punched a temporary path through the mud on the upper Icicle Road before closing it indefinitely at 8 Mile Road. Another mudslide on the Southshore Road near Chelan also stranded residents there for about four hours on Friday. No one was injured in either slide. To read more, click here.

--We have partnered with cascadeclimbers.com for a mountain photography competition.  Check it out here.

--Some schools have cut funding for PE class.  A Seattle alternative elementary school has been using a climbing wall as a part of their curriculum for gym class, physics and teamwork.  To read more, click here. 

--The search for a missing man on Rainier was halted due to strong winds and evidence that he most likely had fallen 2000 ft.  Rob Plankers, 50, of Olympia, and two climbing partners had been on the Liberty Ridge Route when hypothermia and frostbite struck Rob, leaving him unable to walk.  His climbing partners descended to get help, when bad weather rolled in.  To read more, click here. 

Sierra:

--A rack and some other odds and ends were stolen out of a bear box in Yosemite where a climber stowed he gear for a short period of time. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--Mountain Gear, the company behind the annual Red Rock Rendezvous, is running a photo contest. To learn more, click here.

--Joshua Tree National Park celebrated it's 75th Anniversary yesterday with a performance by Rita Coolidge, an eclectic performer.  To read more, click here.

--Miss USA contestants visited Red Rock Canyon this week.  They made lots of stops for lots of photos, but apparently did not go climbing...which shouldn't surprise anyone. To read more, click here.

Alaska:

--A climber died in his tent shortly after reaching the summit of Denali, North America's highest peak, the National Park Service said on Saturday.  Brian Young, a fifty-two year old from Kodiak, Alaska, was pronounced dead Friday at high camp (17,200'). Young had just completed a 20-hour trek up to the peak's summit and back and was back in camp to sleep when he suddenly stopped breathing, the Park Service said. To read more, click here.




--AAI Denali Team 5 and the Upper West Rib expeditions both summitted this week.  AAI Denali Team 7 is just starting their Denali climb.  To read more, click here.

Himalaya:

--Way up in the Himalayas, where thin air and low oxygen pressure hinder speech and movement, weary mountaineers have observed bar-headed geese (Anser indicus) honking away as they ascend powerfully overhead. Every year the geese make an epic migration from sea level in India up over the immense mountain range to their summer breeding grounds in Central Asia. A new study shows that they do it quickly and under their own steam, without the help of upslope tailwinds thought to loft them over the sky-high peaks. The discovery, argues the study’s lead author, makes the birds’ annual journey “the most extreme migration on Earth.” To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Russian climbers Alexander Ruchkin and Mikhail Mikhailov succeeded over the course of four days in making first ascent of the Greenland's Shark's Tooth, via the northwest ridge.  The peak required 21 pitches of technical climbing.  To read more, click here.

Kelly James was killed in a highly publicized accident on a winter climb 

of Mount Hood in 2007.

--A Texas woman says her upcoming trip to Zambia will carry out one of her late husband's lifelong dreams. Karen James leaves on Friday for the southern African country to meet a child she is sponsoring through a Christian humanitarian organization. Her husband, Kelly James, died in a highly publicized accident while climbing Mount Hood in 2007. She said he and his climbing partner dreamed of helping impoverished children in Africa. To read more, click here.

--The Dragon's Horns on the island of Tioman, Malaysia, are not easy to get to.  Thick brush, insects, and heat all come together to make it a very difficult place to climb. But even with all these challenges, David Kaszlikowski and Eliza Kubarska  recently added a new line to the formation.  To read more, click here.

--Scottish teenager Robbie Cammack has died after falling 1,300ft while trapped in a storm in the French Alps.  It is thought that the 19 year old medical student and his climbing partner set out last Tuesday in a bid to climb the Frendo Spur on the Aiguille du Midi. To read more, click here.