August and September Climbing Events

-- August 1-6 -- Stockholm, Sweden -- Stockholm Climbing Festival

-- August 4-7 -- Salt Lake City, Utah -- Outdoor Retailer Show

-- August 19-21 -- Adirondacks, NY -- Chicks Climbing

-- Sept 10 -- Hamilton, MT -- Lost Horse Climbing Festival

-- Sept 15-18 -- Salt Lake City -- HERA Climb4Life

-- Sept 17-18 -- Pocatello, ID -- Pocatello Pump

-- Sept 26 - Oct 1 -- Yosemite Valley, CA -- International Climbers' Meet

Weekend Warrior: Videos to Get You Stoked

So we don't show many basejumping videos...probably because they make us a bit nervous.  This week's weekend warrior doesn't do much to change that.  Indeed, even though the guy in the video makes it out uninjured, it just reinforces our belief that rocks are made to climb, not to jump off of...


BASE Jump Chute Failure, Miracle Save! from Rock & Ice on Vimeo.

--Jason D. Martin

Natural Anchors

Okay, kids.  The question for today is easy.  What is a natural anchor?

The most straightforward definition is that a natural anchor is any simple anchor point that nature provides.

The class know-it-all in the front row raises her hand and asks, "but Mr. Martin, isn't a crack a natural anchor?" 

A crack is a crack.  We actually have to put something inside the crack before we have a piece.  It is a natural spot to place an anchor, but it is not a natural anchor point.  No, instead a natural anchor is anything that is already there.  The most common examples of natural anchors are trees, bushes, boulders, pinches and thread-throughs.

Trees

This tree, found on the iconic Northwest route, Outer Space (III, 5.9), 

has little more than a few roots in the crack system keeping it in place.

Before you elect to use a tree as an anchor point, you should make sure that it is "Five-and-Alive." In other words, that it is at least five inches in diameter, five feet tall, has a good root-base and is alive.  You should be wary of trees that could have a root-base in dirt or sand and on top of the rock.  An anchor with this kind of structure could easily fail.

This photo shows a frictionless wrap with a static rope on a very large tree.

Bushes and Shrubs

In the mountains and in the desert, it is not uncommon to use bushes and shrubs that clearly don't meet the Five-and-Alive standard.  These are primarily used as rappels to get down obscure gullies or to get off the backside of a peak, so the tendency is to try to avoid leaving too much gear.  The tendency is to want to only leave webbing or cordage.

When you elect to use these less-than-stellar natural anchors, consider equalizing a number of them together.  If you're tying your cord around a desert bush that is comprised of a number of finger-sized sticks, you'll probably want to equalize this with similar bushes.  Depending on the size and density, I would want at least two of these, if not more.

And lastly, when it comes to bushes and shrubs as anchors, use common sense.  Don't put your weight on something that might blow out.  You could always back up the first person (usually the heavier person) on rappel with a loose gear anchor.  If all goes well, the second person could tear down that anchor and then descend.  If the equalized bush anchor didn't come apart during the first rappel with the heavier climber, it's reasonable to believe that it wouldn't come out with the second climber either.

Boulders

Boulders can be absolutely fantastic natural anchors.  But there are a few things to look at before committing to a boulder.  First, make sure that it is in good contact with the ground.  Boulders on sandy or sloping surfaces should be considered suspect.  Second, make sure that it won't wobble or roll toward the edge.  Every boulder should be checked by pushing and pulling on it to confirm it's position.  And lastly, if there is any possibility of movement, don't use it.  The last thing you need is a boulder falling down on top of you.

Pinches and Thread-Throughs

Pinches are places where two large boulders come together so tightly that you can wrap cordage or webbing around them.  Thread-throughs are places where there is a hole in the rock that you can something through to tie-off.

It is not uncommon for people to simply miss these opportunities while trying to build an anchor.  They simply aren't as intuitive for most people as the other natural anchors out there.  If you can keep the fact that these exist in mind and you look for them, you'll find them.

Like boulders and trees and bushes, it's important to make sure that pinches and thread-throughs are sturdy enough to handle the stress of being an anchor.  This is particularly important in sandstone or in other soft and friable rock-types. 

Natural Chockstones

In the following video, the Canadian Mountain Guide, Mike Barter demonstrates a quick and dirty improvised anchor. 



Ultimately, the great value to natural anchors is that they don't require much gear.  And since they don't require much, you'll have plenty to use on your next lead.

Class dismissed.  Now go build some natural anchors!

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 7/28/11

Northwest:

--A 30-year-old Southeast Portland climber who fell off Beacon Rock and died Sunday evening was a firefighter-paramedic who worked in Oregon, Skamania County sheriff’s officials said. Nathan Turner fell about 5:30pm, according to a bulletin from the Skamania County Sheriff’s Office. Rescuers first believed he’d only suffered a broken arm and leg. To read more, click here.

Mt. Shuksan

Archival Photo by Jason Martin

-- A climber spent a night on Mount Shuksan after becoming separated from his party on Saturday.  Whatcom County Search and Rescue personal reported that a climbing party was near Lake Ann on the south side of Mount Shuksan when one member decided to turn back. His companions found he didn’t make it back to their vehicle when they returned at about 8 o’clock Saturday night. To read more, click here.


--Jim Davidson, a climber who suffered a serious crevasse fall in 1992, tells his story in his new book, "The Ledge."  To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--After the deaths on Vernal Falls last week, USA Today is asking whether deaths in the parks are random or reckless.  To read the story, click here.

--It appears that West Nile Virus has been found in the Eastern Sierra. Wear your mosquito repellent! To read more, click here.

--The Lion Fire, sparked by lightening two weeks ago, continues to burn and reached 5500 acres over the weekend.  Sequoia National Forest spokesmen said they are managing the fire as “an ecological burn to reduce 90 to 100-year-old fuels.”  The fire continues to churn smoke into the San Joaquin Valley, Kern County and the Eastern Sierra. To read more, click here.

--While Congress continues snarky rhetoric along party lines over the debt limit, the American people fear how congressional indecision may impact their lives. In the Eastern Sierra, federal agencies have not yet begun to plan for a government shut-down, but they do believe it’s a possibility. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

Tim DeChristopher

--Tim DeChristopher will face prison time for disrupting a federal oil and gas lease auction, a federal judge has ruled. DeChristopher, the 29-year-old climate activist turned environmental folk hero, was sentenced Tuesday to spend two years in prison. He also will face a $10,000 fine. The sentence — handed down as a somber crowd of supporters gathered outside the courthouse in downtown Salt Lake City — follows DeChristopher’s high-profile spoiling of a federal auction set to sell off lands near the Indian Creek climbing area in late 2008. To read more, click here.

--One of Southern Nevada’s traffic problem spots isn’t on a freeway, or even in the Las Vegas Valley. It’s out at Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Traffic problems there aren’t a daily occurrence, but they happen frequently enough in the busy seasons that officials are bringing in national experts to try to solve the problems.  To read more, click here.

--Coachella Valley residents can weigh in on a proposed road improvement project in Joshua Tree National Park. A copy of the environmental assessment for the Pinto Basin Road project is available for viewing at the Palm Desert Public Library, and written comments will be accepted through August 13th. Park staff are expected to hold a public meeting in Yucca Valley today. To read more, click here.

Alaska:

--Two teenagers were attacked by a grizzly bear over the weekend in the Talkeetna Mountains north of Anchorage. The teens were participating in an outdoor leadership program and were on a thirty-day stint in the wilderness at the time of attack. To read more, click here and here.

Notes from All Over:

--Last Sunday, after a successful ascent of 14,099-foot Snowmass Mountain in Colorado's Elk Range, 25-year-old Sean A. Wylam was injured in a rockslide. He later died from his injuries, despite being airlifted to a hospital in Aspen. To read more, click here.

--Some time ago a Canadian climber decided that one of the best ways to raise money for charity was to complete 24-hour climbing marathons.  The result was an inspiring journey to help a little girl with cancer.  To read more, click here.


--It was a busy weekend in Rocky Mountain National Park last weekend.  Independently, both Blake Herrington and Josh Wharton made significant ascents on the Diamond on Long's Peak. To read more, click here.


--The Access Fund, the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment, is excited to announce the release of its new smart phone application.  The free application serves up breaking news in the climbing world—including the latest access news—in one convenient location for smart phone users. The application is available on both the iPhone® and Android® platforms and allows users to browse news feeds from their favorite climbing media outlets, including Alpinist Magazine, Climbing Magazine, Rock & Ice Magazine, Dead Point Magazine, Urban Climber Magazine, the American Alpine Club, and other sources so users are always plugged in to the freshest content in the climbing world. To read more, click here.

Conditions Report - July 27 2011

 NORTHWEST:

Giant Green Buttress, Sunday July 24. Photo Credit Dyan Padagas.

-- Toilets have been installed on Baker: The Forest Service was able to install 12 toilets on the south side of Mt. Baker in the NRA Monday. They are located at the usual spots: Climber's Camp 6500', Sandy, High, Railroad, and Cathedral Camps, and Park Butte LO. They were not placed on the north side but they will be as soon as the weather clears, and the helicopter is available. We'll let you know when this occurs. 

-- Here's some recent pictures of the north side of Baker. 


-- Wow, check out this trip report for Liberty Ridge on Rainier. "We were both thoroughly soaked and becoming mildly hypothermic." Looks like there is a lot of fresh snow up there. 

-- Click here for more information on the proposed Sea to Sky Gondola in Squamish, BC. 

-- Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

-- Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

-- Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

-- Forecast for Mount Rainier.

-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

-- Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

-- Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

-- Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

-- An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

-- Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA:

-- Here's a thread for current Whitney/Russel area conditions.

-- For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

-- Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.

RED ROCK CANYON:

-- Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

-- Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

-- The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

-- The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:

-- Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times.  It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full.  Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit."  And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.

-- The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle.  Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase.  Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out.  Annual passes are available for $30.

ALPS:

-- Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

-- Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.



ALASKA:


-- Conditions in the range are not currently available.  But we are taking reservations for both Alaska Range Ascents and Denali trips for the 2012 season.  To learn more, click here.  We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.

Film Review: Sanctum

Outdoor adventure movies come and go, and unfortunately few of them are really very good.  The newly released to DVD film, Sanctum is just such a film.

The film follows a team of cave-divers, climbers and cave explorers on their quest to drop down a deep hole in Papa New Guinea in order to find a cave system that connects to the ocean. While exploring the depths of the cave a cyclone settles on land far above the team.  The team's exit is blocked and the water begins to rise.  This forces the team to descend deeper into the cave system and to try to find a way out to the ocean.

The plot is fascinating and it could have been an excellent outdoor adventure film.  But alas, the writing is quite poor.  The characters are weak.  And there are some sequences that are just plain bad...

The writing team for this film is made-up of people who haven't done much when it comes to narrative drama.  Screenwriter Andrew Wight has a number of underwater documentary films to his credit, but no real narrative film-writing experience. And screenwriter John Garvin has no other screenplays to his name.  Director Alister Grierson has a handful of other movie titles under his belt, but they all appear to be second-rate B films.

It is clear that the reason this movie was made was because super-director James Cameron (Titanic, Avatar, The Abyss) was behind the production team.  It's well-known that Cameron enjoys working with an underwater environment.  He has pioneered a number of underwater and deep-sea filming techniques for both his narrative blockbusters as well as for some of his lesser-known documentary works.

The underwater cave diving sequences in Sanctum are cool.  Some of them are really cool.  And this element of the film lends credence to the entire -- sometimes painful -- experience of watching the movie.  It is clear that the focus of the film was to play with this type of cinemetagrophy instead of telling a story that has some value.

Supposedly the story is based on real life events. It appears that the real-life version of the story wasn't anywhere near dramatic enough for Hollywood.  The problem with the real-life story was that, while dramatic, everybody survived and there were no cardboard villains twisting their mustaches.

In 1988 Sanctum screenwriter Andrew Wight was on an expedition that mirrored the one in the film.  His team was exploring a deep cave when a cyclone arrived causing a flash-flood which cut-off their exit route.  Wight and his companions were forced deeper into the cave system to find their exit.

The core of the story is really interesting, but the characters and the situations some of the characters put themselves in are somewhat ludicrous.

There is a tendency in Hollywood-style outdoor adventure films to paint one character as a gruff, hard, outdoor-type guy.  Usually this kind of character has seen it all.  And often there's a coldness or a latent level of violence in the character.  Think Clint Eastwood in The Eiger Sanction, or Scott Glen in Vertical Limit, or even Brad Pitt in Seven Years in Tibet.  The character is so common in these types of movies, that he (and it usually is a he) is almost archetypal.

The problem with the gruff-outdoors-guy-who's-seen-it-all-and-is-an-ass because-of-it character is that he doesn't exist in real life.  Yeah, there are a lot of anti-social climbers out there.  And yeah, there are a lot of people who are obsessed with their objectives.  And indeed, there are a lot of people out there who will push it to the limit and beyond to achieve their goals.  But, you know what?  Even when they're arrogant, most of these people are still nice. They want to talk about their passion and they want to bring you into it. And most of them don't see death on a daily basis the way these types of characters seem to. 

The leader of the caving team, Frank (Richard Roxburgh) is just such a character.  At one point in the movie a man is seriously injured and Frank decides that the best way to deal with him is to drown him instead of to try and get him out.  This is absolutely crazy.  And not only that, but dealing with an injured character that they're trying to keep alive would have been a whole lot more interesting than murdering him.



There is another archetypal outdoor adventure movie character as well.  That's the billionaire playboy explorer, who is actually a coward. Ioan Gruffudd plays this character well because there's little to play.  It's a boring and simplistic characterization that needs to disappear from adventure films.

This is a women and minorities die first movie.  These types of films had their heyday with horror movies in the seventies, eighties and early nineties.  I thought that modern filmmakers were done with such a terrible story arc, but I was wrong.

And from a climbing perspective, one woman dies after she gets her hair caught in a belay device and decides that she should try to cut it out...accidentally cutting the rope.  She should have taken one of our classes...

Sanctum is not a good movie, but there are some interesting sequences and some moments where you're with the characters as they struggle to survive.  But when they start to talk, things fall apart...

--Jason D. Martin

The Magnetron - Hint: It's not from a Summer Blockbuster

So I haven't seen the new Transformers movie yet. But there is a character in the old cartoon series named Megatron.  He was a great character and I hope he's in the movie.

I did see one review of the film that admitted that it was bad, very bad, but that it didn't matter. It essentially said that you should just "shut-up and eat your awesome."  I always have a hard time eating the awesome, unless there's some substance to it.

Every time a new piece of climbing equipment comes out, I can't wait to try it.  Unfortunately, not every new innovation has turned out to be as awesome as the hype,  I thought Link Cams were going to be the coolest addition to my rack, until I realized how easily they got stuck.  I felt the same about the GriGri 2, until half of them were recalled.  So I always try to temper my excitement...

But now I'm enamored with a new product, the Black Diamond Magnetron autolocking carabiner.  No, not the Megatron -- like the cartoon/movie -- but instead, the Megnetron!

As most of you are probably aware, autolockers are notoriously difficult to open and close.  Additionally, they don't operate well in snowy or icy conditions.  Black Diamond's new carabiners will supposedly deal with these issues.

Here is what Black Diamond wrote in their press release on the new product:

What’s so special about Magnetron Technology? One word: magnets. Yes, that’s right locking carabiners that utilize magnets and not twistlocks or screwlocks on the gates. Available on select locking carabiners in July 2012, our patent-pending Magnetron Technology is so revolutionary we decided to share a sneak preview with you now to get you stoked. Here’s the basics: using the power of magnetic fields to reinvent the locking carabiner, the Magnetron GridLock and the Magnetron RockLock locking carabiners combine maximum security and ease of use like never before.

•    Magnetic attraction to a steel insert in the carabiner nose keeps two independent arms securely locked
•    Locking arms must be individually depressed before the gate can be opened
•    Once open, opposing magnetic fields repel the arms to ensure smooth and reliable gate operation
•    Symmetrical design allows for easy one-handed operation (right or left)

For an in-depth look at the concept and development of Magnetron Technology, watch the video below, and then look for the Magnetron GridLock and the Magnetron RockLock to be in stores by July 2012. If you are a member of the outdoor industry, be sure to check out the Magnetron GridLock and the Magnetron RockLock in person at Black Diamond Equipment’s booth during the Summer 2011 OutDoor Europe and Outdoor Retailer tradeshows.

So yeah, I'm hungry for some awesome. I have high hopes for this new carabiner. Hopefully it will satisfy my hunger...for awhile...

--Jason D. Martin

Mountaineers Books Twitter Promotion runs through Friday 7/29!

We know some of you out there are serious Twitter fans.  And for those of you who are, we are teaming up with Mountaineers Books to do a special Twitter promotion.

All that you have to do in order to win, is log on and tell us what the first mountain or route was to obsess you...  When you tell us, be sure to add the hash tag #freedomofthehills to your answer. You will be automatically entered into a contest to win the eighth edition of Freedom of the Hills.  If you'd like to be entered more than once, RT initial posts on Monday to be entered again.

The contest will end on Friday at 2pm.

To learn more about this promotion, log onto Twitter and follow @AlpineInstitute and @MtneersBooks.

--Jason D. Martin

August and September Climbing Events

-- August 1-6 -- Stockholm, Sweden -- Stockholm Climbing Festival

-- August 4-7 -- Salt Lake City, Utah -- Outdoor Retailer Show

-- August 19-21 -- Adirondacks, NY -- Chicks Climbing

-- Sept 10 -- Hamilton, MT -- Lost Horse Climbing Festival

-- Sept 15-18 -- Salt Lake City -- HERA Climb4Life

-- Sept 17-18 -- Pocatello, ID -- Pocatello Pump

Best Climber Eats

In a short blog entry, it's not really possible to discuss all of the great dining options for climbers on the road. What is possible is a smattering of great dining options at a few popular climbing areas. Please feel free to add your own favorites in the comment section!

.

Squamish, BC:

• Howe Sound Brew Pub - Cool ambiance with cool people and cool music make up for the okay menu and mediocre beer. This is the evening focal point for climbers, skiers, kite boarders and mountain bikers. As such it cannot be missed.

Leavenworth, WA:

• Gustavs -- The somewhat limited menu is the downside of this climber's hangout. The upside is that there is great locally brewed beer in this faux Bavarian haunt.
• South -- The best Mexican food in the area!
• Munchen Haus -- This restaurant in "the corner" of the Leavenworth offers outside dining for those with a big Bavarian appetite.  If brauts and beer are your think, you can't go wrong with eh Munchen Haus.
• Icicle Brewing -- This is less of a classic restaurant as it is a brewry.  The location offers meat or vegetable plates alongside excellent craft brews.

Washington Pass, WA

• The Duck Brand -- This great little restaurant/inn is actually in the town of Winthrop which is about thirty miles from the pass. The menu includes both Mexican and American fare, all of which is really good. Bottomless tortilla chips and friendly service on top of excellent food make it well worth the travel time from the mountains.

Other Washington State Options -- Be sure to check out this website for great suggestions from members of the Washington Trails Association.

Eastern Sierra, CA

• The Mobile Station -- One of the best kept secrets and perhaps one of the oddest secrets in the world of restaurants is the gas station/deli in Lee Vining, California. The Whoa Nellie Deli, found inside the Mobile Station, provides arguably the best food and the best musical entertainment on the entirety of the Eastern Sierra 395 corridor. People as far away as Bishop and Yosemite Valley will make special trips to see a band and have a meal at this gas station. Upon hearing this many people scoff at the idea that a gas station could compete with "real" restaurants. Those same people will -- after one meal at the Whoa Nellie Deli -- make entire vacation plans around eating there again.

Joshua Tree, CA:

• Crossroads Cafe and Tavern -- This kitchy little restaurant features a cool ambiance but limited hours of operation. In particular, the breakfasts stand out as tasty and above average.
• Santanas Mexican -- This 24 hour Mexican restaurant is cheap and greasy with a capital "g." Though many might see Santanas as a little too cheap and greasy before a hard day of climbing, it is a popular after-climb destination. Lots of food plus lots of calories equals a full stomach and a happy climber!

Red Rocks, NV:

Red Rock Canyon is just 19 miles from the world famous Las Vegas Strip. In other words, it is minutes away from more five star restaurants than anywhere else in the world. The following selections are common climber destinations and hang-outs that mix good food with great prices.

• BJs Restaurant and Brewery -- Just minutes from Red Rock Canyon, this restaurant and brewery offers an excellent variety of different foods, beers and appetizers. The place has a very family oriented feel to it and there are often kids running around the restaurant. There are certainly a lot of options in Vegas, but this seems to be the most attractive to many climbers as it does not really feel like a Sin City restaurant. The downside of its ambiance is that it is a very busy destination and there are often long waits.
• Red Rock Hotel and Casino Buffet -- Those who have spent a significant amount of time in Vegas are over the whole buffet scene. They could care less. But there are still a lot of climbers who want to eat themselves silly and for them, the "Feast Buffet" at the Red Rock Hotel and Casino is just a hop, skip and a jump away and will please the bottomless belly.
• John Cutter -- This little bar/restaurant hasn't been around for too long, but it is becoming really popular with the locals.  This is primarily because most climbers finish their day around Happy Hour, and John Cutter's has $1 beer and $1 sliders...

Zion National Park, UT:

• Zion Pizza and Noodle Co. -- The beer is definitely weak. It is Utah. But there is a great deal of variety at this scenic little Italian restaurant. And though it is often crowded with visitors from around the world, it's a place well worth the wait.

Talkeetna, AK

• West Rib Pub and Grill -- After coming out of the Alaska Range, people are hungry and thirsty.  And the West Rib is one place that will definitely cover a big hunger and a big thirst.  Try the monster McKinley Burger after climbing the mountain; or slurp down an Ice Axe Ale, but don't drink it too fast, the servers will only provide patrons two of these beers with 9% alcohol content.
• Talkeetna Roadhouse -- This is the place for breakfast. The "family style" space provides the opportunity to make new friends while testing their famous sourdough pancakes.
• Denali Brewing Company/Twister Creek -- This is the new kid on the block when it comes to AK dining. With excellent beer and a varied menu, this is a place that can't be missed.

While researching this blog post, I decided that I should get some opinions beyond those of myself, my wife and a few of our guides. As a result I started threads some time ago on rockclimbing.com and on mountainproject.com for people to post their favorite eats at their local crags throughout the country. To read these threads, click here and here.

For more discussions about great places for hungry mountain people to visit, click here and here.

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 7/21/11

Northwest:

--King County Sheriff’s Office deputies and volunteer members of Seattle Mountain Rescue retrieved a 22-year-old woman from Rattlesnake Ledge after she fell about 30 feet the afternoon of June 29.  The Seattle woman had stopped to take a photograph, got too close to the cliff edge, lost her footing and fell, according to Sgt. John Urquhart, spokesman for the Sheriff’s Office.  To read more, click here.

--The Bureau of Land Management in Idaho recently announced their intention to close up to 600 acres at Massacre Rocks near American Falls. The closure is intended to protect sensitive cultural resources within the Cedar Field Archaeological District and will affect several hundred bolt-protected basalt sport climbs. To learn more, click here.

Sierra:

--Search and rescue rangers in Yosemite National Park are scouring an area below a massive waterfall after witnesses reported seeing at least one hiker being swept over the falls. Park spokeswoman Kari Cobb said Tuesday that emergency services received "multiple calls" about one or more hikers going into the water and over Vernal Falls at around 1pm. To read more, click here.

--There are some complex issues surrounding the installation of a toilet in the Buttermilks bouldering area.  Some don't want it to be amongst the boulders because of the smell and the sightliness of the situation.  Others argue that the need for a toilet is great.  To read more, click here and here.

Alaska:

--Juneau locals Ryan Johnson and Gabe Hayden made the first free ascent of the South Buttress Direct on the Main Tower of the Mendenhall Towers on July 11th. This impressive peak can be found just outside Juneau. The duo's ascent climbed over 2000 feet, clocking in at 5.11a.  To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--A wildfire in the Spring Mountains west of the Las Vegas Valley has burned 44 acres but is contained, officials said Tuesday afternoon.  The fire, located about three miles northwest of the Las Vegas Beltway and Summerlin Parkway interchange, was deemed 100 percent contained — meaning firefighters have formed a line around it to prevent its spread. To read more, click here.

--To hear rescuers tell it, Joe Yearm is a lucky man. The Mesa, Arizona, man fell at least 20 feet while descending El Diente Peak Saturday, breaking his leg. He spent the night lying in the snow, then crawled as far as he could. To read more, click here.

--One person has been hurt in a plane crash in Joshua Tree National Park, officials tell KPSP Local 2 News.  Federal Aviation Administration Spokesperson Ian Gregor says the plane crashed at around 9 a.m., near Sunset Road and Joshua Trail, near Covington Flats.  To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--British climbers Dan Fitzgerald, James Wake and Matt Balmer recently climbed a new route onHuarancayo Sur (appx 17,000'), in Peru.  According to Balmer, the peak has only been climbed once before in 2006, making their route the second line to the summit. To read more, click here.

--REI has published a blog covering a number of "handy smartphone apps," for the outdoors man or woman. To read more, click here.

--The federal government is currently considering a bill to increase childhood outdoor literacy. The bill is being referred to as the "No Child Left Inside" bill.  To read more, click here.

--The Climbing Resource Access Group of Vermont (CRAG-VT) and the Access Fund are pleased to announce that road repairs are now complete at the Bolton Quarry after an unprecedented flood washed out the road on April 26, 2011. A small loan through the Access Fund Land Conservation Campaign (AFLCC) will assist with the cost and jumpstart CRAG-VT fundraising efforts to rebuild their financial reserves for ongoing land management and stewardship. To read more, click here.

--The final Master Plan for Chimney Rock State Park in North Carolina, which includes the Rumbling Bald area, was released earlier this month, containing revisions to the 2010 draft that better reflect the popularity of climbing in the Park and may allow access to more climbing areas in the future. Take a look at the new Master Plan here. The Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) played an important role in the development of the revisions, working with the Division of Parks and Recreation to make sure climbers’ needs were met.  To read more, click here.

--Rep. Scott Tipton (CO-R) is circulating a letter to fellow members of Congress to be sent to the Comptroller General of the Government Accountability Office later this week.  The letter requests an updated audit of the fee programs Fee Demo and the Federal Lands Recreation Enhancement Act (FLREA).  To read more, click here.

Conditions Report - July 20 2011

 NORTHWEST:

Glacier Skills and Crevasse Rescue course, Mt. Baker on Monday, July 18 2011.

-- Check out this "accidental" ascent of the Stanly-Burgner route on Prusik Peak.

-- Road is officially clear to Cold Springs Camp. Click here for more Mt. Adams beta.

-- Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

-- Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

-- Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

-- Forecast for Mount Rainier.

-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

-- Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

-- Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

-- Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

-- An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

-- Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA:

-- This person climbed The Third Pillar of Dana last Sunday in perfect conditions -- the approach was nearly snow free and water is available. Click here for more info.

-- For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

-- Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.

RED ROCK CANYON:

-- Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

-- Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

-- The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

-- The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:

-- Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times.  It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full.  Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit."  And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.

-- The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle.  Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase.  Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out.  Annual passes are available for $30.

ALPS:

-- Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

-- Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.



ALASKA:


--Conditions in the range are not currently available.  But we are taking reservations for both Alaska Range Ascents and Denali trips for the 2012 season.  To learn more, click here.  We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.

Non-Lockers vs. Lockers at the Power Point

At a beginning level, climbing tends to be rule-based. These rules that you are provided at the start of your career are important. They will help to keep you safe.

It should be noted that once you have a few years of experience, there is some room to re-evaluate some of the rules. However, this should only take place after you have climbed with a lot of different experienced people.

One of the commonly quoted rules for toproped climbing is that one should always use two opposite and opposed lockers at the master point.

Two opposite and opposed lockers.

The idea is that there is no way that the rope could possibly jump out of two opposite and opposed lockers. And while it may be possible -- however unlikely -- for movement in the system to cause the one of the gates to become unlocked and to open, it would be nearly impossible for the both lockers to become unlocked and to be opened.

In the guiding world, two opposite and opposed lockers are considered to be industry standard. The liklihood of a single locking carabiner becoming unlocked and opening is incredibly low. However, this is one of the rules that you learn when you start to climb and it has become so integral to outdoor groups throughout the world in toproping that it has become the industry standard across the board.

Industry standard is one of those phrases that we should pay attention to in climbing. There are very few things that can be considered industry standard in the climbing world.

That said, it is incredibly unlikely that a single locker in a toprope system will fail. But what if something does go wrong? And what if you were toproping in a way that was outside this standard? Certainly you would feel terrible, and not only that, you would also be hammered by the internet forums, the blogs, and the magazines for doing something considered to be outside the norm. As such, it's probably a good idea to stay within the norm.

Many climbers use two opposite and opposed non-lockers in lieu of two opposite and opposed lockers. Two opposite and opposed non-lockers should be considered the equivalent of one locking carabiner. For non-lockers to have equivalency to two opposite and opposed lockers, there must be three opposite and opposed non-lockers.

Three opposite and opposed non-lockers and equivalent to two opposite and opposed lockers.

Rules in climbing exist to create a wide margin of safety. There's really no reason at all not to have a wide margin of safety in a toproped environment.

--Jason D. Martin

The Thankless Job of the Guidebook Author

"Where is it?"

"Dude, I have no idea." The deeply tanned young-man raises his hand to his forehead to block the sun from his eyes. With his other hand he points at a wall in the distance. "The guidebook says it's over there."

The young man's partner sneered, "no way it's over there!"

"That's what the guidebook says."

"Well, the guidebook's wrong."

"Yeah, it is." The young man lowers his hand from his forehead and looks at his partner. "This guidebook is lame."

"No," the partner shook his head. "This guidebook author is lame!"

The preceding is an example of the conversations going on around the climbing world every day. Many guidebooks have errors and as such, many climbers come down hard on the guidebook authors. In some cases, the errors were avoidable and in others they weren't.

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A common belief amongst climbers is that guidebook authors have climbed every route in the guidebooks they've written. In some cases this is true. For example, in select books it is reasonable to expect a guidebook author to have firsthand knowledge of the 50 to 100 climbs generally featured in such tomes. However, it is not reasonable for an author to have firsthand knowledge of the hundreds if not thousands of routes that might be described in a comprehensive book. Comprehensive books rely heavily on a combination of good research, interviews, and peer reviews of a manuscript.

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I have had the opportunity to author two guidebooks. The first, Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide, required significant research. Throughout the project there were a number of factors working against me. First, nobody ever wrote a comprehensive guide to ice climbing in Washington prior to ours. There were a few published resources, but they only covered a small percentage of the material in the book. The vast majority of the route research was derived from interviews with first ascentionists; some of which had foggy memories. Second, many of the routes had significant approaches. With our limited free time, my co-author and I tried to climb as many routes as possible. This was incredibly difficult as most climbs required a day or more to complete. And third, many of the ice climbs in Washington are ephemeral. Some routes only come in once every few years. As a result of these factors, it took over three years to write the book and there were still minor mistakes.

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Washington Ice is definitely not a perfect guidebook. But many people have had many days of great climbing due to the publication of the book. Perhaps a few people have had a hard time with some part of a description; but when all is said and done, those same people probably wouldn't have gone climbing at all if they didn't have a guidebook.

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In late August, Fun Climbs: Red Rocks will be published by Sharp End Books. My second guidebook is a select book. I have first hand knowledge of every climb listed in the book. As such it is unlikely to have as many minor mistakes as my comprehensive ice book. However, I still expect people to complain. Even with perfect descriptions and photos of every single trail, every single crag and every single hold on the routes described, there will still be those who can't find a climb or feel that the route topos are incorrect. This is part of the deal when you write a guidebook. More complaints than thanks.

So next time you see a guidebook author, thank him first. Then, explain to him how he could do it better. He will listen. He will take note of the complaint. And he will do his best to fix it in the next edition. Guidebook authors want to be proud of their books and even more than that, they want you to be psyched to use them...

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--Jason D. Martin

July and August Climbing Events

--July 14 - 18 -- New River Gorge, Vest Virginia -- Homo Climbtastic 

--August 1-6 -- Stockholm, Sweden -- Stockholm Climbing Festival

--August 4-7 -- Salt Lake City, Utah -- Outdoor Retailer Show

--August 19-21 -- Adirondacks, NY -- Chicks Climbing

Weekend Warriors- Videos to get you Stoked!!!

Climbing in our Backyard!

The infamous Chris Sharma's first ascent of Dreamcatcher in Squamish, BC. It's only 5.14d, so you should jump on it this weekended.  I'll belay...

The Dangers of Glissading

Yep, you can find them in just about every issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering. They have unwieldy headlines like:

• "Climber injured in Glissade Accident"
• "Out of Control Glissade Leads to Fatality"
• "Inexperience, Lack of Proper Clothing and Glissade with Crampons On"

Gissading is an incredibly fun endeavor. I've often felt that after achieving a somewhat physical summit that a good glassade run back down makes it all worth it. It's as if nature gave you something back for all of the work that you did to get up there. The desire to glissade though should be tempered by the reality...and the reality is that a lot of people get hurt glissading.

Most injuries take place because an individual breaks one of the cardinal rules. To stay safe, the best thing to do is to take these rules seriously.

The Cardinal Rules of Glissading

1. Never glissade with crampons on. If you're wearing crampons it means that you're probably on hard snow or ice. This means that should you glissade, you will slide really fast. If you slide really fast and you catch a crampon spike, your leg will snap like a dry twig. As such one should never glissade with crampons on.
2. Never glissade on a rope team. If one person loses control on a rope team, then others may do so as well.
3. Never glissade on a glacier. It's likely that you'll be roped up if you're on a glacier so if you do glissade, you will be breaking two rules at once. We don't glissade on glaciers because of the possibility of hidden crevasses.
4. Always make sure that you can see where you're going. This should make sense. If you can't see, then you could end up sliding into a talus field or off a cliff.
5. Make sure that there is a good run-out. A good run-out is imperative. One should certainly avoid glissading above dangerous edges, boulders or trees.

These rules are quite black and white. There are few gray areas in glissading. If there is some question, then the best thing to do is to err on the side of caution. Though you might be tired, sometimes walking down the mountain is the safer alternative.

--Jason D. Martin

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 7/14/11

Northwest:

--Two climbers were injured at the base of the Monkey Face in Smith Rock when another climber unintentionally moved their rope, knocking them off their stance. It appears that an individual was swinging, when he grabbed a rappel rope, which in turn knocked the pair off their perch..  To read more, click here and here.

--Olympic National Park in Washington state is urging hikers not to urinate along backcountry trails to avoid attracting mountain goats who lick urine deposits for salt. The advice is part of a plan to avoid aggressive goats like the one that gored a Port Angeles, Washington, man to death in October. To read more, click here.

--There was no reason for Gwen Hall and Jim Krieger to believe their dog, Sasha, would be alive after they saw her leap off a cliff at the summit of 5,944-foot-high Mount Ellinor, above Lake Cushman in the southeastern Olympic Mountains. But she was. Rescuers successfuly retrieved thee 5-year-old Bernese Mountain dog. To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--Narcotics officers destroyed a large marijuana garden Friday in the first major outdoor operation of the year.  A total of 13 officers from Nevada County Sheriff's Office and the U.S. Forest Service found a large marijuana garden composed of three, terraced seed beds on Tahoe National Forest property between Graniteville and the Town of Washington in eastern Nevada County Friday, said Sheriff Keith Royal. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--This month's Climbing magazine includes a photo of AAI Guide Dawn Glanc working her way up a steep and intimidating off-width crack in Indian Creek.  The photo can be found on page 44 of Issue #297.

 Development plan for Blue Diamond Hill outside Red rock Canyon

From the Las Vegas Review Journal

--Picture 7,000 homes in multiple villages complete with a town square, schools, a college campus, light-industrial shops, stores, restaurants, offices, spas and parks atop a mesa.  That's what Jim Rhodes envisions in a conceptual plan he submitted to Clark County for developing 2,500 acres of hilltop land overlooking the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. To read more, click here.

Alaska:

-- Swedish extreme skier Andreas Fransson recently completed the first complete ski descent of the huge South Face of Denali in Alaska. To read more, click here.

--Alaska Mountain Rescue Group climbers rappelled down a cliff to rescue a hiker who was stuck on a ledge just south of McHugh Creek Saturday night. The hiker, Aubrey Jackson, 45, of Anchorage, is inexperienced and got to a place that was beyond his capabilities. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

Bean Bowers

--Well-known climber and guide Bean Bowers passed away this week from cancer. He was 38 years-old.  To read more, click here and here.

--In light of the final space shuttle launch last week, CNN profiled astronaut/climber/doctor, Scott Parazynski.  Dr. Parazynski climbed Denali with the American Alpine Institute in 2006.  To read the article, click here.

--Secretary of the Interior Ken Salazar had barely made his way back to Washington, D.C. from his announcement at Grand Canyon, where he extended an emergency mining ban on one million acres of public lands in Grand Canyon’s watershed and established that ban as the Interior Department's preferred alternative, when some Arizona congressmen sought to stop it. To read more, click here.

--So some companies have corporate picnics, but not our friends over at FiveTen. As professionals making adventure footwear, they had another idea for an outing. It appears that they have run with the bulls in Pamplona, Spain.  To read more, click here.

--Rainer Hertrich has skied every day for over 2,500 days straight.  To read more, click here.

--The Greg Mortenson epic continues.  Former school teacher Deborah Netter of Illinois dropped her lawsuit against Mortenson. She sued him for the cost of Three Cups of Tea, stating that the grounds for the lawsuit were based on the fact that portions of the book were fabricated. To read more, click here.

Conditions Report - July 13 2011

 NORTHWEST:

-- Check out this trip report for the Gothic Basin area. Still a lot of snow up there!

-- Reminder: Mt. Baker is the second most heavily glaciated volcano in the Cascades after Mt. Rainier...crevasses present a serious hazard to climbers. Glissading is extremely dangerous on Mt. Baker and is not recommended.

-- This report has some good beta for the approach and road conditions for Mt. Adams. 

-- Recent reports for the Enchantments can be found here and here. 

Photo credit WSDOT.

-- Mt. Baker's Artist Point is still buried under 55 feet of snow. This will impact the approach to Fisher Chimneys. The upper portion will remain closed this summer because the snow is simply too deep and would take too long to clear. Click here and here for more information.

-- Do you have your Discover Pass yet? Starting Friday, July 1, the Discover Pass is required for vehicle- and water-access to all state recreation lands managed by Washington State Parks, Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife, and the state Department of Natural Resources. Click here and here for more info.

-- Leavenworth Climbers: It looks like the Midnight/Noontime (near Castle Rock, Leavenworth, WA) birds didn't nest this year, at least in this area.  The seasonal closure for these two rocks has been lifted early, effective immediately.  At the Snow Creek Wall, two chicks fledged by mid-day on the 25th while the third was still at the eyrie.  Climbers should be aware that the chicks are still weak flyers and you could encounter them anywhere along the wall, as well as their protective parents. 

-- Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

-- Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

-- Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

-- Forecast for Mount Rainier.

-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

-- Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

-- Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

-- Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

-- An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

-- Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA:

-- The road adjacent to North Lake up in the Bishop Creek drainage is covered in water in one location and campers at North Lake Campground have been advised to watch the weather and stream and road conditions and to leave if they see conditions becoming impassable. Click here for more info.

-- Approach notes for Temple Crag can be found here. Snow slow was done in approach shoes by this party.

-- For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

-- Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.

ALASKA RANGE:

-- Conditions in the range will be available as our dispatches come in. Please go to our Dispatch Blog for the most updated information.

RED ROCK CANYON:

-- Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

-- Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

-- The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

-- The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:

-- Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times.  It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full.  Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit."  And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.

-- The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle.  Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase.  Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out.  Annual passes are available for $30.

ALPS:

-- Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

-- Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.