The Haunted Hut of Ecuador

The Whymper Hut on Chimborazo

The hut keepers won't sleep in the Whymper Hut on Chimborazo. For them it's not a myth or a legend. It's a fact.

The Whymper Hut is haunted.

The hut keepers all have ghost stories about the place. They've all seen something in there. They've all felt something. Maybe it was nothing more than a candle inexplicably blowing out. Maybe it was nothing more than a door blowing shut. Maybe it was nothing. Or maybe it actually was something. They're certainly convinced.

It's not terribly surprising. Chimborazo is a dangerous mountain. Since its first ascent in 1880, this mountain has seen thousands of ascents and hundreds of fatalities. Many of those who died on the mountain have been stored in the empty third story of the hut. South Americans are superstitious and for them ghosts are simply a part of life. For them, a place that has been used as a morgue is no place to be when it is dark.

One of the stories goes something like this. A hut keeper was alone in the kitchen. There were no climbers there. He was washing dishes. Suddenly he felt something. It was like someone was watching him. But when he looked around there was no one there.

He went back to washing his dishes.

A moment later, somebody slapped him on the back. Whomever it was slapped him hard...so hard that it left a red mark in the shape of a hand on his skin. But there was still no one there. The young man immediately ran from the hut. After he got outside and into the freezing wind, he fell to his knees.

And threw up.

A lot.

Memorial Stones on Chimborazo

Another story goes like this. A hut keeper was sleeping in a bunk. The bunks in the hut are nothing more than wooden platforms where people lay out their sleeping bags and pads. The hut keeper was sound asleep when somebody grabbed the foot of his sleeping bag and dragged him from his slumber and onto the ground. It couldn't have been comfortable... One moment you're asleep and the next you've been pulled from your bed and thrown onto the wooden floor.

I suppose that the hut keeper could have simply rolled over and fallen out of bed. I suppose that happens a lot. But if he supposed anything, he supposed that the ghost of a dead climber dragged him from his sleep and onto the floor. He supposed that the climber wished to bring him with him into the next world.

And my favorite story of the group, goes like this...

An Ecuadorian guide and his client were alone in the hut. The guide told the client that they would wake up at one in the morning to start their climb. At midnight, somebody wearing an old school yellow one-piece Gore-Tex suit quietly came over to the guide's bunk and sat down on it. The climber never looked at the guide. Instead, he began to put on his boots.

"What are you doing?" the guide asked. "It's only midnight. Go back to sleep."

Without looking at the guide, the climber got up and walked away.

An hour later, the guide's client appeared wearing black pants and a red jacket. "What happened to the one-piece suit?" the guide asked.

"What are you talking about? I don't have a one-piece suit."

"But you were wearing a yellow one-piece Gore-Tex suit when you got up an hour ago."

"I didn't get up an hour ago," the client responded. "I only just woke up."



--Jason D. Martin

November - December Events

-- November 3 -- Seattle, WA -- Snowbash

-- November 5 -- Dark Horse -- Newburyport, MA -- Bouldering Comp

--November 5 -- Victoria, BC -- Reel Rock Film Tour

--November 9 -- Fort Collins, CO --  Reel Rock Film Tour

-- November 11 -- Great Falls, MT -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 12 -- Red Rock, NV -- Coffee with a Ranger

-- November 12 -- Hillsborough, NJ -- Adopt-a-Boulder

-- November 12-13 -- Jailhouse Rock, CA -- Jailhouse Rock Adopt-a-Crag

-- November 13 -- Seattle, WA -- Northwest Snow and Avalanche Summit

-- November 15-16 -- Kalispell, MT -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 15 -- Bellingham, WA -- Reel Rock Film Tour

-- November 16 -- North Vancouver, BC -- Reel Rock Film Tour 


-- November 17 -- Collegville, MN -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 17 -- Portland, OR -- Steph Davis Clinic and Slide Show

-- November 18-19 -- Minneapolis, MN -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 19 -- Little Rock, AR -- Little Rock Boulder Bash

-- November 19 -- Bishop, CA -- Buttermilks High Ball Work Day w/ John Long

-- November 20-21 -- Duluth, MN -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 21 -- Ellensburg, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 22 -- Leavenworth, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 29 -- Bellingham, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 30 -- Seattle, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- December 1 -- Seattle, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- December 3 - 4 -- Olympia, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- December 6 -- Tacoma, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival 

-- December 7 - 8 -- North Bend, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- December 10 -- Port Townsend, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival
 

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!!

With "All Hallows Eve" right around the corner, I thought it only fitting for this weekend's videos to feature the thing that scares climbers the most - falling. Luckily, none of the climbers shown here were seriously hurt, but there are some pretty tense moments in these clips, so hold on to your seat. Muhahaha!

Backclipping!

Backclipping is one of the most common mistakes that beginning level leaders make. This is the process of misclipping a quickdraw so that the rope does not run smoothly out of the top of the carabiner, but instead runs behind the gate. If a leader falls with the rope clipped in such an orientation, it is possible that the rope could become unclipped.

This diagram from Spadout.com shows an incorrectly clipped rope
and how it may become unclipped in the event of a fall. Click on the photo for a larger image.

This image from Greatoutdoors.com shows the proper way that a rope should be clipped.
Note that the rope runs out of the top of the carabiner and over the spine.

It is quite common for those that are learning -- and even some of those that have been climbing for a long time -- not to recognize a backclipped carabiner. It is important for both leaders and belayers alike to be able to easily recognize an incorrectly clipped draw. It is also important to quickly correct this once it is recognized.

One of the best ways to avoid backclipping is to practice the art of clipping a rope into a draw. Climbers should be able to do this with both hands, regardless of the direction of the gate. This is a great technique to practice while vegging in front of the television. If you can wire it at home, then your muscles will remember how to do it and will do it right.

The following video provides a quick lesson on clipping a rope to a draw. Be sure to obtain real instruction from a live person before doing this in an environment that has consequences...



--Jason D. Martin

Mountain Conditions - Oct. 26th 2011

NORTHWEST:
-- Ski slopes are starting to look inviting but objective hazards are also present. Early season snow comes with many hazards, beware of un-plugged but hidden crevasses, cornices, avalanches and other hazards related to low snow-pack and early season conditions. 


-- It was reported last week that the ice in the hourglass variation of the fisher chimneys is good and still goes. 


-- This Trip Report on East Face Couloir of Sahale Peak has good photos and route beta.


-- Trip Report from the Enchantments with excellent photos of October snow.


-- Smith Rock, Oregon - It has been reported that there are loose Anchor bolts at the top of Picnic Lunch Wall and Where Ever I May Roam


-- Mountain Specific Weather Forecasting.

-- Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

-- Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

-- Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

-- Forecast for Mount Rainier.

-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

-- Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

-- Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

-- Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

--Webcam for Camp Muir on Mount Rainier.

-- An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

-- Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA: 
-- A trip report with some great photos of the High Sierra from Mt Dana


--Yosemite National Park Fire Managers are planning a prescribed fire in the southern portion of the park near Bishop Creek and Rail Creek along the Wawona Road, on Monday, October 24, 2011. It is expected to take 4 - 5 days.

-- For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

-- Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.

RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

-- Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

-- The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:

-- Watch for aggressive bees on Hemingway Buttress near "Poodles are People Too"

--With the exception of Cottonwood Campground, all park campsites opened on September 30th.

-- Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times. It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full. Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit." And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.

-- The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle. Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase. Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out. Annual passes are available for $30.

ALPS:

-- Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

-- Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

ALASKA:
-- Conditions in the range are not currently available. But we are taking reservations for both Alaska Range Ascents and Denali trips for the 2012 season. To learn more, click here. We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.

The Terror or Rockfall!

The only thing in the mountains that is scarier than someone yelling the word,"rock," is someone screaming the word "rock" repeatedly. Rock! Rock!! ROCK!!! When someone yells the word multiple times, you know that what's coming is huge...and you know that what's coming could kill you.

Loose rock is utterly terrifying and we were able to find a couple of videos that really demonstrate that danger. In this first video a couple of climbers are descending a loose trail in the Desert Southwest. One of the climber's slips and barely arrests her fall before the "real" near miss takes place.



In this second video a couple of climbers on Mt. Kenya find some loose rock...some loose rock that had been used as a rappel anchor for years. Check out the terrifying results of a kick to the anchor below:

Is it completely possible to avoid rockfall?

No.

Just like all objective dangers, the danger of rockfall can be mitigated by good decision making. Following are some simple rules that will help you to manage this mountain danger:

1) When you choose a route, it's not a bad idea to climb a route that has seen a lot of traffic over the years, but is not seeing a lot of traffic the day that you're on it.

If a climb has a long history, a lot of the most dangerous chunks will have been removed. If the route isn't busy, then the likelihood of party inflicted rockfall decreases.

2) Wear a helmet. The magazines regularly show high-end climbers without helmets. This is an unfortunate trend that really should go away. There is no legitimate reason not to wear a helmet when you are climbing.

3) Yell rock (or ice), not stick, not sunglasses, not camera, not anything but rock or ice. Yelling something other than one of these two words can lead to confusion. People may not protect themselves adequately from a falling object if the alarm isn't sounded properly.

4) Practice leaning into the wall while keeping your helmet above your head. Don't look up. Hopefully any debris that comes down will bounce over you.

5) Beware of the danger zone ten to thirty feet from the base of a wall. Bouncing objects often land away from the base of the cliff. If you want to create a safe zone where people don't have to wear helmets, make sure it's sufficiently far enough away from the wall.

6) Check and double check all rap anchors on trees and boulders. There have been far too many tragedies from the use of loose natural features.

7) If you elect to climb a "loose" route, be extremely wary of everything that could fall off. It could be argued that it's irresponsible to climb a significantly loose route above a popular climb.

While it's impossible to completely avoid rockfall, following the preceding rules certainly could help you to keep the danger to a minimum...

Jason D. Martin

Urban Dictionary Definition - MountainSexual

Yep, the urban dictionary has defined us...

MountainSexual

Similar to metrosexual, but one who lives in the mountains or otherwise pursues the outdoors adventure lifestyle. Kind of a cleaned-up granola, a woodsy GQ kinda' guy with a splash of bohemian. Knows that he doesn't have to look or smell like a dirtbag to enjoy climbing, hiking, cycling, skiing, (all forms), snowshoeing, etc. Probably reads Men's Journal, Outside, and Alpinist. Brands: Patagonia, Keen, Kuhl, The North Face, Mountain Hardwear, Marmot, Mountain Khakis. Stong environmental ethic. Drives a well-maintained truck, performance SUV, or cross-over when absolutely necessary but walks or rides a bicycle whenever possible. Works out at the gym, but primarily to be in shape for outdoor pursuits. Shuns chain stores and shops.

"For such an outdoorsy guy, that dude sure has great style."

"Yeah, he's a veritable MountainSexual!"

It's funny because it's true...

--Jason D. Martin

October - November Events

-- October 10 -- Logan, UT -- Radical Reels

-- October 11 -- New York, NY -- Gasherbrum II: The Hardest Way – 8000 Meters in Winter

-- October 12 -- Olympia, WA -- Whimsical Dreams: The Skiing Life

-- October 13 -- Sandpoint, ID -- Radical Reels

-- October 13 -- Seattle, WA -- Whimsical Dreams: The Skiing Life

-- October 14 -- Berkley, CA -- Mountain Hardwear Crag Clean-up

-- October 14 -- San Francisco, CA -- Planet Granite Bloc Party

-- October 14-15 -- Albuquerque, NM -- Yank-and-Yard on Yale

-- October 14-16 -- Indian Creek, UT -- Indian Creek Volunteer Day

-- October 15 -- Bozeman, MT -- Radical Reels

-- October 15 -- Breckenridge, CO -- Life on the Vertical

-- October 15 -- Zion National Park, UT -- Zion Canyon Access Project

-- October 15 -- Golden, CO -- Golden Cliffs Adopt-a-Crag

-- October 15 -- Boulder, CO -- Castle Rock Improvements

-- October 16 -- Hudson, WI -- Willow River Adopt-a-Crag

-- October 17 -- Fort Collins, CO -- Life on the Vertical

-- October 18 -- Bozeman, MT -- Life on the Vertical

-- October 22 -- Boise, ID -- Black Cliffs Cleanup and Climb

-- October 22 -- Boston, MA -- Black Light Bouldering Bash

-- October 28 -- Manchester, NH -- Vertical Nightmare

-- October 29 -- Durango, CO - Rock the X

-- October 29 -- Sandstone, MN -- Robinson Park/Banning State Park Adopt-a-Crag

-- October 29 -- Malibu, CA -- Malibu Creek Climber's Clean-Up

-- November 3 -- Seattle, WA -- Snowbash

-- November 5 -- Dark Horse -- Newburyport, MA -- Bouldering Comp

-- November 11 -- Great Falls, MT -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 12 -- Red Rock, NV -- Coffee with a Ranger

-- November 12 -- Hillsborough, NJ -- Adopt-a-Boulder

-- November 12-13 -- Jailhouse Rock, CA -- Jailhouse Rock Adopt-a-Crag

-- November 13 -- Seattle, WA -- Northwest Snow and Avalanche Summit

-- November 15-16 -- Kalispell, MT -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 15 -- Bellingham, WA -- Reel Rock Film Tour

-- November 17 -- Collegville, MN -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 18-19 -- Minneapolis, MN -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 19 -- Little Rock, AR -- Little Rock Boulder Bash

-- November 20-21 -- Duluth, MN -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 21 -- Ellensburg, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 22 -- Leavenworth, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 29 -- Bellingham, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!!

The mountain film season has been excellent so far, and this clip is no exception. After premiering in Denver back in mid-September, it made it's rounds through the state before heading towards the Northwest. With a stop in Vancouver, BC, tonight and a showing in Seattle later this week, it has started it's tour down the coast. This is definitely one not to miss.



Have a great weekend!

Guided Climbing Threatened in the National Parks

Some National Parks are not fans of guided access for the public that would like to experience a park with a guide.  Unfortunately, there are a few individuals in these parks that don't see the value of such an experience.

Leigh Goldberg, the Access Director at the American Mountain Guides Association, has drafted the following letter:

The National Park Service wants to ban guided climbing and prohibit members of the public from being able to climb with a professional guide in one of our country's most adventurous wilderness climbing areas. This is a national threat, which could set a debilitating precedent for guided climbing access in National Parks across the country. We are requesting your urgent support to help preserve guided climbing access in the Black Canyon as well as in other National Parks the U.S.

Here is how you can help:

Send an email to Ken_Stahlnecker@nps.gov today using the talking points below. Our goal is to have 500 people (who are not guides) contact Ken Stahlnecker opposing the Park's plan to ban guided climbing in the Black Canyon and urging the Park to preserve guiding climbing access in this unique venue.

Dear Ken Stahlnecker,

Chief, Resource Stewardship and Science

National Park Service,

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

I am writing to urge you to keep guided climbing access available to the American public. Along with Yosemite National Park and Red Rocks National Conservation Area, the Black Canyon is one of only a few climbing venues in the country offering big wall climbing opportunities. There is often a scarcity of willing and adequate climbing partners to tackle the bold and remote terrain of the Black. Because climbing requires a team of two unless one is free soloing, my options for experiencing this unique wilderness area will be substantially reduced or eliminated altogether if guided climbing is banned in the Inner Canyon Zone.

Having the option to climb with a professional guide is necessary for me to be able to experience the vertical wilderness in the Black Canyon. Partnering with a professional guide will enhance my opportunity for an experience of adventure, challenge and self-reliance. I see no difference between climbing with a professional guide and climbing with a non-guide partner who happens to be stronger or more experienced than me. It is not uncommon for climbing partners to be of varying levels of experience. Climbing successfully in the Black always requires the self-reliance, commitment and personal fortitude of both climbing partners regardless of their varying experience levels.

Thank you for the opportunity to provide my opinion on this important matter.

--Jason D. Martin

angela - search mail

Angela Seidling - aseidling@yahoo.com

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 10/20/11

Northwest:

--The Access Fund has combined forces with Washington Climbers Coalition for the good of climbers and climbing access in Washington state. By combining membership, you can join and receive benefits from both organizations for the cost of one! To learn more, click here.

--The Seattle Times ran an article this week that featured Northwest Climber Chad Kellogg. Chad is in the process of training for speed ascents around the world and hopes to hold the speed record on Mount Everest.  The 40-year old climber has twice held the speed record on Mount Rainier. To read more, click here. 

--There has recently been at least seven earthquakes around Mt. Rainier. These small quakes have taken place over the last two weeks on the mountain.  And though they may not result in any type of eruptive activity, it is something scientists are keeping their eye on. To read more, click here. Please see the news report in the following video:





--And in yet more Mt. Rainier news: Randy King has been selected as the new superintendent of Mount Rainier National Park. King has been serving as acting superintendent of the park since July 17th.  He replaced Dave Uberuaga who was recently named superintendent of Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona.  To read more, click here.


--In honor of Halloween, the Washington Trails Association put together a list of "haunted hikes" in the Northwest. To read about them, click here.

Sierra:

--Mayan Smith-Gobat blasted up El Capitan's 37-pitch Free Rider (VI 5.12d) in a mere 14 hours and 10 minutes. This is the fastest free climbing ascent that any female has ever made on El Cap. Recently, AAI Guide Chantel Astorga and partner, made the fastest female ascent on the iconic Nose route on El Cap.  To read more, click here.

--Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks have only had one fatality this year, a very low number for such an active park. However, nine people needed to be rescued during the early storm that visited the Sierra last week. To read more, click here.

--There was a thirty foot lead fall on Royal Arches in Yosemite this week. It appears that the victim sustained a wrist and ankle injury. To read more, click here. 

--An investigation by Mono County Sheriff’s officers into a bear attack report netted no findings. On Tuesday, October 11, 2011, at approximately 2:30 pm, the Mono County Sheriff’s Department dispatch received a call regarding a reported bear attack near the Twin Lakes area in Bridgeport. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--Climbing photographer Jason Nelson has been very busy lately, photographing AAI guide Mary Harlan on a recent climbing trip to Indian Creek, Utah.  To see the photos, click here.

--Falcon Guides has recently released a climbing application for your smart phone, which provides route information and topos for the Moab area. To read more, click here.

Alaska:

--There is a movement afoot to ban all fixed anchors in Chugach State Park.  The bulk of the cragging opportunities near Anchorage lie in this state park.  Park management is currently taking comments. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--An Austrian ski tourer has received a three month prison sentence for the manslaughter of his wife. The case centered around the use of avalanche beacons. According to the Salzburg court he was touring with his supposedly inexperienced wife with their beacons switched off and in their rucksacks. To read more, click here.

--The Access Fund has created a new "Conservation Team" that is traveling around the country to participate in Access Fund and Adopt-a-Crag events.  It looks like anyone anywhere can request that they visit to participate in these types of activities. Check out the video below video from Rocktober Fest in Red River Gorge, KY. The team worked for two days to improve the access trail to the Solar Collector and Gold Coast:



--Pik Byeliy (18.690') in Western Kyrgyzstan was recently sent by Slovenian climbers. At the time of its ascent, it was the highest unclimbed peak in the region. To read more, click here.

--It appears that skier visits last year in Colorado were down. To read more, click here. 


--Democrats and Republicans - while it seems like they might be mortal enemies, they did recently come together to do something extremely helpful to the ski industry. They agreed that ski areas should be able to expand the number of activities they offer in the summer. The U.S. Senate unanimously passed the Ski Area Recreational Opportunity Enhancement Act late Tuesday, two weeks after the House of Representatives approved the bill by a vote of 394-0. To read more, click here.

--The Southeastern Climbers Coalition is looking for volunteers.

Zhonghua Gate 

From Wikipedia

--$4 is a lot of money in China...or that's how a Chinese woman felt when she decided to climb the 70-foot wall of Nanjing, at China's historic Zhonghua Gate. It appears others tried to copy her, but weren't so skilled. Broken legs and rescues became part of the scene at the popular tourist destination. To read more, click here.

Mountain Conditions - Oct. 19, 2011

NORTHWEST:

-- Road repair re-opens White Chuck (FS Rd 23) and Rat Pass (FS Rd 27) in the Darrington Ranger District. These roads provide hiker and equestrian access to the Meadow Mountain and Crystal Lake Trails.

-- Smith Rock, Oregon - It has been reported that there are loose Anchor bolts at the top of Picnic Lunch Wall and Where Ever I May Roam

-- New Snowshoe Route off White Salmon Road. Click here for the article.

-- Mountain Specific Weather Forecasting.

-- Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

-- Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

-- Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

-- Forecast for Mount Rainier.

-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

-- Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

-- Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

-- Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

--Webcam for Camp Muir on Mount Rainier.

-- An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

-- Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

SIERRA:

--Yosemite National Park Fire Managers are planning a prescribed fire in the southern portion of the park near Bishop Creek and Rail Creek along the Wawona Road, on Monday, October 24, 2011. It is expected to take 4 - 5 days.

-- For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

-- Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.

RED ROCK CANYON:

-- Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

-- Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

-- The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:

-- Watch for aggressive bees on Hemingway Buttress near "Poodles are People Too"

--With the exception of Cottonwood Campground, all park campsites opened on September 30th.

-- Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.

-- As winter use in Joshua Tree is growing, camping can be difficult at times. It is not a bad idea to come with a back-up plan if the park campgrounds are full. Here are the NPS Campground Details. Some people like to stay at the rural campground often referred to as "The Pit." And lastly, there is a campground available at Joshua Tree Lake.

-- The Joshua Tree entrance fee is currently $15 per vehicle. Your receipt will give you access to the park for seven days after its initial purchase. Rangers check this receipt at each of the major access points going in and out. Annual passes are available for $30.

ALPS:

-- Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

-- Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

ALASKA:

-- Conditions in the range are not currently available. But we are taking reservations for both Alaska Range Ascents and Denali trips for the 2012 season. To learn more, click here. We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.

The East Baker Lake Trail

During the summer I had two adventures that were different for me.  The first was a backpacking trip with my (then) two-year old and three-year old.  The second was a bike-to-summit trip up to Ruth Mountain.

Both adventures, being quite different from my normal lets go climbing type trip, were quite memorable. My kids hiked the first 1.6 miles of the East Baker Lake Trail, and I made an ascent of a mountain completely by human power.

I've been thinking about both adventures since completing them.  I want to take my kids on a longer backpacking trip, and I want to complete more human powered adventures.  So I decided to combine these two interests. On a beautiful October Saturday, I decided that I would park my car at the North end of Baker lake, ride my bike to the south end on the west side and then hike back on the east side.  This would be approximately 15 miles on a bike and 15 miles on foot...

The idea was to check out the whole trail to see if perhaps next summer I might be able to backpack the whole thing with my - still quite young - children.  I wanted to check out the camps and make sure that there weren't too many drop-offs on the trail and make sure that the whole thing was kid friendly.

And it mostly is, except for a brushy section in the middle.

Here is a photo essay from my trip:

The bike tour in the morning started with a lot of fog and moisture.

A blurry self-portrait 

 Baker Lake is a reservoir. Here you can see the remnants of old trees from before

the creation of the reservoir.

 Mt. Blum above Baker Lake

 The lush forest on the south end of the trail.

Mt. Baker reflected on Baker Lake

Silver Creek

Another Beautiful Creek

A far more leafy trail on the north end of the trail.

The Baker River

A very cool suspension bridge over the Baker River 

on the north end of the East Baker Lake Trail.

--Jason D. Martin

Denali Overflights Advisory Council Meeting in Anchorage

The American Alpine Institute just received the following email from Denali National Park:

Denali Park, Alaska: The tenth meeting of the Denali National Park Aircraft Overflights Advisory Council is taking place on Friday, October 28 from 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. at the Marriott Residence Inn Midtown, located on 1025 E. 35th Avenue, Anchorage, Alaska.

The Denali National Park Aircraft Overflights Advisory Council advises the Superintendent, through the Secretary of the Interior, on mitigation efforts that should be made to reduce the impacts from aircraft overflights at Denali National Park and Preserve. The group is developing voluntary measures for assuring the safety of passengers, pilots, and mountaineers and for achieving desired future resource conditions at Denali that were outlined in the 2006 Backcountry Management Plan. Council membership contains broad representation of interested stakeholders and has a balance of local, state, and national interests.

Information on the Advisory Council can be found at
http://www.nps.gov/dena/parkmgmt/currentprojects.htm.

Information on Denali's 2006 Backcountry Management Plan is located at
http://www.nps.gov/dena/parkmgmt/gmp.htm.

For additional information on the meeting, please contact Miriam Valentine
at (907) 733-9102 or via email at miriam_valentine@nps.gov.

--Jason D. Martin

Route Profile: Johnny Vegas

Johnny Vegas is an extremely popular, extremely cool little route that can be found on the lower tier of the Solar Slab Wall in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. This phenomenal 5.6 or 5.7 route (depending on who you talk to) climbs up through three enjoyable pitches, all of which are in a spectacular position.

A father and daughter team low on Johnny Vegas.
Photo by Jason Martin

This is a slightly older route. It was put up in 1994, but didn't make it into a guidebook until 2000. The result is that this super classic line was overlooked for a six full years.

In 1999, I was climbing Beulah's Book, a classic 5.9 found just to the left, when I saw a rock jock leading a 5.10 variation to Johnny Vegas. I looked down to see an older man with a very small frame encouraging his much younger partner on. The belayer was none-other than the iconic Red Rock climber, George Uriosite.

A happy climber on the second pitch.
Photo by Jason Martin

George and his ex-wife Joanne were Red Rock pioneers. They were responsible for dozens and dozens of classic lines throughout the park. It was very cool to meet such an important person in the history of Red Rock. And everytime I've run into him since has been just as great.

It was also cool to see those guys on a route that I knew nothing about. So I thought it was important as a Vegas local to get on that thing as soon as possible. The very next day my partner and I returned to the Solar Slab area to make an ascent of Johnny Vegas. And we were incredibly happy that we did.

A climber nearing the top of the route.
Photo by Jason Martin

Since that first time on the route, I've climbed the line dozens and dozens of times. There are a few little things that people should know before sending Johnny Vegas:

1. Purists will say that the route is four pitches, not three. Indeed, super purists might even call it five pitches. It is three real pitches. Sometimes people make a tiny pitch to attain the base of the route. And there is a long stretch of 5.0 climbing at the top of the route.
2. Some guidebooks say to rappel this route. It is a rope eating nightmare. It is far better to rappel the nearby Solar Slab Gully.
3. There are two starts to the bottom of the route. If a party is going very slow on the right hand start, some may elect to pass them on the left.
4. The bottom of the route goes into the shade in the winter from approximately 10am to noon. When it's cold in the shade, this can make the route very very chilly.
5. This has become a super popular route. Make sure to get up early!

--Jason D. Martin

October - November Events

-- October 10 -- Logan, UT -- Radical Reels

-- October 11 -- New York, NY -- Gasherbrum II: The Hardest Way – 8000 Meters in Winter

-- October 12 -- Olympia, WA -- Whimsical Dreams: The Skiing Life

-- October 13 -- Sandpoint, ID -- Radical Reels

-- October 13 -- Seattle, WA -- Whimsical Dreams: The Skiing Life

-- October 14 -- Berkley, CA -- Mountain Hardwear Crag Clean-up

-- October 14 -- San Francisco, CA -- Planet Granite Bloc Party

-- October 14-15 -- Albuquerque, NM -- Yank-and-Yard on Yale

-- October 14-16 -- Indian Creek, UT -- Indian Creek Volunteer Day

-- October 15 -- Bozeman, MT -- Radical Reels

-- October 15 -- Breckenridge, CO -- Life on the Vertical

-- October 15 -- Zion National Park, UT -- Zion Canyon Access Project

-- October 15 -- Golden, CO -- Golden Cliffs Adopt-a-Crag

-- October 15 -- Boulder, CO -- Castle Rock Improvements

-- October 16 -- Hudson, WI -- Willow River Adopt-a-Crag

-- October 17 -- Fort Collins, CO -- Life on the Vertical

-- October 18 -- Bozeman, MT -- Life on the Vertical

-- October 22 -- Boise, ID -- Black Cliffs Cleanup and Climb

-- October 22 -- Boston, MA -- Black Light Bouldering Bash

-- October 28 -- Manchester, NH -- Vertical Nightmare

-- October 29 -- Durango, CO - Rock the X

-- October 29 -- Sandstone, MN -- Robinson Park/Banning State Park Adopt-a-Crag

-- October 29 -- Malibu, CA -- Malibu Creek Climber's Clean-Up

-- November 3 -- Seattle, WA -- Snowbash

-- November 5 -- Dark Horse -- Newburyport, MA -- Bouldering Comp

-- November 11 -- Great Falls, MT -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 12 -- Red Rock, NV -- Coffee with a Ranger

-- November 12 -- Hillsborough, NJ -- Adopt-a-Boulder

-- November 12-13 -- Jailhouse Rock, CA -- Jailhouse Rock Adopt-a-Crag

-- November 13 -- Seattle, WA -- Northwest Snow and Avalanche Summit

-- November 15-16 -- Kalispell, MT -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 15 -- Bellingham, WA -- Radical Reels

-- November 17 -- Collegville, MN -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 18-19 -- Minneapolis, MN -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 19 -- Little Rock, AR -- Little Rock Boulder Bash

-- November 20-21 -- Duluth, MN -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 21 -- Ellensburg, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 22 -- Leavenworth, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

-- November 29 -- Bellingham, WA -- Banff Mountain Film Festival

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!!

While this first video may not necessarily get you Stoked, it is still something spectacular to watch. It is footage of a 150' - 200' tall sea-side cliff in North Cornwall, UK, collapsing due to wind and sea erosion at the base of it.




The second clip, is another 1-in-a-million situation caught on camera: a mountain biker in Africa has an unlikley encounter with the local wildlife.



So here is some Stoke for you! With the new snow forecasted to fall in the mountains this weekend, I am sure many of you have started thinking about getting your skis and boards waxed up in anticipation.



Have a great weekend!
James Pierson, Program Coordinator

DIY Leashless Ice Tool Tether/Umbilical

With more and more climbers going "leashless" these days, companies like Black Diamond have a large enough market to make a product like their Spinner Leash profitable. However, before you go out and drop $49.95 on a manufactured leash, don't forget that people have been making them at home for years. Here is one way to do it...

Materials:

• 12 feet of 1/2 inch webbing
• 1.5 feet of 1/2 inch webbing (different color than above)
• 12 feet 1/8 inch elastic shock cord
• 3/8 inch swivel or bigger
• 2 carabiners or Spring Snaps

Take the 12 feet of webbing, put one end in your hand and stretch it out to full extension. At your farthest reach, pull the middle of the webbing to your waist.

Take double this length (plus a little extra if you need room for error, like me) and cut it.

Cut the elastic shock cord to mimic the length of the webbing. Open up the webbing and insert the shock cord into the webbing until it is all the way in. If your webbing is closed or "melted" at the end, just cut a little behind the tip and it will be easier to open up. Be patient, putting the cord inside the webbing takes time.

After the cord is inside the webbing, feed the swivel onto the cord until it is exactly in the middle and tie an overhand knot.

Stretch the shock cord 6-12 inches out of the webbing so the webbing bunches up, and tie a knot in the shock cord to hold it in place.

Here comes the tricky part; tie an overhand on a bite in the end of the webbing so that when the swivel is attached to your harness and the overhand is clipped to your tool, you can fully stretch without the webbing becoming taught. I do not have a great way to explain how to do this, or how to measure in advance, except to say I messed up two or three times. That is why it is nice to have extra webbing/shock cord, and then just cut off the excess. If you are using spring snaps, make sure to feed them on the webbing and incorporate these into the overhand knot.

The shock cord is running inside of the knot, which is what holds it in place. Repeat this process on the opposite side. With the smaller piece of different colored webbing, tie a sling using a water knot to the opposite side of the swivel. This piece of webbing will not have any shock cord in it.

Attach the umbilical to your harness by girth hitching the small sling to your tie in points.

Attach the two ends by clipping a carabiner that fits into the bottom holes of your ice tools. If you attached spring snaps, use those instead of the carabiners. If you don't have holes at the bottom of your tools, get creative.

And there you have it, pretty awesome, homemade leashless tool umbilicals! Homemade gear always tastes... err.. works better right!?

A few notes regarding design:

• Two colored webbing is not necessary, it's just nice to be able to distinguish between the separate pieces of the umbilical quickly.
• If you are using spring snaps, make sure these fit in the bottom of your tool.
• You can really use anything to connect these to your tools, from small plastic carabiners to key chain rings.
  
• This took me about an hour to do, including an initial failed attempt.
  
• Buying "12" feet of webbing is not necessary, you could measure the amount you need in store and purchase only that amount. I estimated 12 feet because I figured only a giant would need more than that.
• You can use a lighter to melt the ends of the webbing back together so they don't fray. Kids ask your parents for help.
  

A few notes regarding safety:

• These umbilicals are not meant to be used as a personal anchor system or as a "back-up" while placing a screw. They are not load bearing.
• I used two small, C.A.M.P Nano 23 carabiners to attach to my tools. If you use any kind of attachment method that isn't "full-strength" make sure they don't accidentally get used on your rack. While they may be heavier, I opted for full-strength carabiners to avoid any mistake.
• Notice where I girth hitched the blue piece of webbing, to my two tie-in points. If you girth hitch anything to your harness, be it a sling, daisy chain, or umbilical, do it to your tie-in points. Girth hitching to your belay loop limits its ability to rotate, which is important for reducing wear on one specific part of the loop. A good rood of thumb is that all soft goods should be attached to the tie-in points, and hard goods clipped to the belay loop.
• Over time, I found that I prefer to actually clip these to my belay loop, instead of girth hitching.  Clipping allows me to remove it quickly with gloves, and is worth the little extra weight in my opinion.

Let me know if you try to make your own and have any improvements to my directions or materials. I would love to hear your feedback! I'm pretty excited that I did this at the end of the season, right when they are no longer necessary.... Wait, our ice season isn't over in the North Cascades! If I went out and climbed the North Ridge of Mount Baker I could get a ton of ice climbing in during the summer season! It's a good thing our Alpine Ice courses take people to the North side and climb that route. Make yourself a pair of these and come climb with us!

-Andrew Yasso, Alaska Range Program Coordinator and Guide