Saturday, December 31, 2011

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you Stoked!!

Here's your last bit of Stoke for 2011!

First off, a little something for you Ice Junkies out there. With the Ouray Ice Fest just around the corner, hopefully this will help get you pumped up.



This clip has a little bit of everything - skiing, alpine, bigwall, expedition - all the things we enjoy here at AAI.



This last video is a little long, but a great way to finish out 2011.
I hope you enjoy it as you look towards the New Year.

The Denali Experiment from renan ozturk on Vimeo.

Friday, December 30, 2011

Parkour and Art

Steve Casimiro at The Adventure Life posted the following video a couple of weeks ago. If you haven't checked out The Adventure Life, it's definitely time to take a look. They have a very good blog.

Parkour is the urban climbing, bouldering, gymnastic movement that has become popular in some circles. The Urban Dictionary defines Parkour as:

Parkour can be thought of as being chased by someone. You want to get away as fast as possible, right? But lets say you begin running into rails or walls or other obstacles as such. If you go around them you're only wasting time and energy.

The trick of parkour is to use as little wasted movementt while going past an obstacle. This is why most consider tricking and flips "not parkour" as they simply aren't necessary and will most likely slow you down in someway.

To parkour is to be able to control your body and mind into one being, so that you can find a path quickly, and move your body in a way that the path can be followed into the next path you're given. If you're running towards and obstacle and start to slow down in order to maneuver around it, most likely you need to practice more.


In the following video an artist has developed a cartoon of sorts showing parkour movement...and it is awesome. Check it out below:

parkour motion reel from saggyarmpit on Vimeo.


--Jason D. Martin

Thursday, December 29, 2011

Change to Denali National Park and Preserve Entrance Fee

The American Alpine Institute just received the following note from Denali National Park:

DENALI PARK, Alaska:  Effective January 1, 2012, Denali National Park and Preserve will collect only the $10 per person entrance fee for visitors age 16 and older. The $20 per vehicle fee has been eliminated, because the park does not collect the fee at an entrance station as the majority of national parks do.  The fee is valid for seven days.

The park will continue to honor the Interagency (IA) Federal Recreational Passes such as the Annual, Senior, and Access Pass, and the Denali Annual Pass. These passes all provide entry for the cardholder and up to three other adults, and they are all sold year-round at Denali National Park.

The Senior and Access IA Passes are good for a lifetime, and can also be obtained by mail. The Access Pass (for U.S. Citizens with permanent disabilities) is free, and the Senior Pass (for U.S. citizens age 62 or older) is $10. Information on how to obtain these passes by mail is posted at http://store.usgs.gov/pass. There is an additional processing fee for applications done via mail.

The IA Annual Pass is $80 and is available on-line at http://store.usgs.gov/pass. It is valid for one year.

The Denali National Park Annual Pass costs $40 and is valid for one year for entry into Denali National Park. It is only available for purchase at the park, i.e. it is not available by mail.

The majority (80%) of the fees collected remains in the park, and is used for pre-approved projects that improve visitor services and facilities. The remaining 20% is used for similar projects in parks that don’t collect an entrance fee, or for funding agency-wide efforts such as Youth Corps Programs.

Additional park information is available one on the park website at www.nps.gov/dena or by calling 907-683-9532 from 9:00 am – 4:30 pm daily. Stay connected with “DenaliNPS” on Twitter, Facebook, YouTube, Flickr, and iTunes – links to these social media sites are available at www.nps.gov/dena.

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 12/29/11

Northwest:

--A 26-year-old man was rescued Sunday from a snowy cliff on Mount Becher near Victoria said while he never feared for his life, he was grateful to see the rescuers after spending hours stranded on the side of a mountain. An avid back-country snowboarder, Lawrence Floucault left Mount Washington at 9am, Friday, camped out overnight at McKenzie Lake and planned to finish his trek through Forbidden Plateau by Saturday afternoon. To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--For Mammoth Mountain Ski Area, this December does not mark the driest one on record, but close. Mammoth Mountain received two-inches of snow in December. Joani Lynch, Communications Director of Mammoth Mountain, pointed to history.  She said that the 1976-1977 season saw zero inches in December and not much for the season – just 94 inches.  That was a serious drought year. To read more, click here.

-- In other Mammoth Mountain news, the resort is now offering child care facilities.  To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--Last week, rescuers pulled a Texas family from an SUV that had been buried in a snowdrift on a rural New Mexico highway for nearly two days. Rescuers were forced to dig through four feet of ice and snow to free the Higgins family, whose vechicle got stuck on U.S. 56 near Springer when a blizzard moved through the area. To read more, click here.

--A scrambler in Joshua Tree National Park took a tumble the day after Christmas. Reports indicate that the individual will be okay.  To read more, click here.

Himalaya:

--In 1955, Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary became the first to summit Mount Everest. This year, another mountaineer became one of the first people to tweet from the top. Kenton Cool, an alpinist and climbing guide, had already summited the mountain eight times when, on May 6th, he did it again. This time though, Cool stepped onto the familiar summit, took out his phone and texted a message to the world via Twitter: “Everest summit no 9! 1st tweet from the top of the world thanks to a weak 3G signal & the awesome Samsung Galaxy S2 handset!” To read more, click here.


Notes from All Over:

--Rick Butler, 58, a municipal poliitician from Calgary, died of chest injuries after hitting a tree while skiing with his daughters, Corrie, 22, and Marni, 20, at Nakiska Mountain Resort 85 km west of the city on Monday. To read more, click here.

--15-year old mountaineer Jordan Romero has completed his quest to climb the Seven Summits, the tallest mountain on each of the seven continents, and in the process became the youngest person to achieve that feat. On Christmas Eve, Jordan, along with his father and step-mother, reached the top of the 16,050-foot Mt. Vinson in Antarctica, the last of the mountains on his list. To read more, click here.

--Arctic adventurer Lonnie Dupre has made his way to 9.600 feet on Denali's West Buttress, but it's cold and slow going. To read updates, click here.

Wednesday, December 28, 2011

Mountain Conditions Dec. 28th 2011

NORTHWEST: 

-- Roads, Routes, Trails --


New York Gully - Pitch 3 Photo: Scott Gullberg


New York Gully - Pitch 4 Photo: Scott Gullberg

New York Gully - Pitch 2 Photo: Scott Gullberg
Photo: Wayne Wallace

Photo: Wayne Wallace
The Big Picture, Photo: Wayne Wallace


-- Weather and Avalanche --

SIERRA: 

-- Tahoe Ice is Going off! Read all about it. 

--Weather and Avalanche --
-- Webcams --

RED ROCK CANYON:
-- Weather --

-- Webcam --
-- The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.


JOSHUA TREE:

--Weather 
--Webcam

ALPS:



ALASKA:
 We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.

Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Book Review - Last Child in the Woods

Last Child in the Woods: Saving our Children from Nature Deficit DisorderBy Richard Louv
Algonquin Books, 336 Pages
Hardcover $24.95

Everybody has a theory about what’s wrong with the kids these days. Some scream that they play too many video games. Others say that they eat too much fast food. Some say it’s the teachers, whereas others say it’s the parents. Some argue it’s cell phones and others argue it’s street gangs. But if all of these people have one thing in common, it’s that they believe there is something wrong with this generation of children.

Newspaper columnist and child advocate, Richard Louv, threw his hat into this never-ending argument with his new book, Last Child in the Woods: Saving our Children from Nature Deficit Disorder. And ironically, Louv agrees with pretty much every theory postulated above. Indeed, he links the vast majority of the problems with youth in America today to living inside with a focus on technology in conjunction with a systemic lack of outdoor and nature related experiences. He calls the result of this modern lifestyle, “nature deficit disorder.”

Louv takes a close look at many of the chronic problems that children have today and relates them directly back to wilderness and nature oriented experiences. On the one hand there are the creative elements that evolve in children who spend time outdoors. They create games and fantasies, build forts and take on characters. On the other hand they develop a number of higher function cognitive and psychological skills by spending time in such an environment. They do this through self-imposed rules that evolve out of unstructured play.

Louv provides an apt example with a discussion about a tree fort. Children learn a great deal from both the building of the fort, as well as the subsequent play in the fort. First, there’s the construction. That’s where they learn about architecture, mathematics and geometry. Then there’s the use of the finished product. Suddenly, it’s no longer a bunch of wood haphazardly nailed to a tree, but a spaceship or a castle. This unstructured play allows children to stretch their imaginations. Their fantasy worlds have rules (i.e. the tree is a monster and if you touch a certain branch it will eat you). The playacting that takes place in a tree fort allows children to work on their executive function. This cognitive skill is incredibly important to a child throughout his or her entire life. Strong executive function helps students concentrate in school; it helps them control themselves and it helps them understand abstract concepts.

Louv offers a number of dire warnings in his book. Children who don’t spend time outdoors will not value green space or fight for the environment in the future. Children who don’t go camping or spend time in national parks will not become stewards of parks and wilderness areas. Children who don’t spend time outside are far more likely to develop childhood obesity, ADD or ADHD among a number of other ailments.

Ultimately, Last Child in the Woods is not all gloom and doom. Louv passionately argues that a return to the “way it was when we were kids” when parents just let their kids run around the neighborhood to climb trees and dig holes and ride bikes and play will at least partially heal a number of these social ills. He argues that it’s time for our culture to reacquaint our children with the outdoors. There is no doubt that those who read this book will be convinced. The only problem with his argument is that he is likely to be making it to the very people who already encourage their children to spend time outside.

--Jason D. Martin

Monday, December 26, 2011

How to Put an Ice Axe on a Pack

This morning I was putting away my rock rack in the garage when I noticed that one of my ice axes was lying on the floor. Both of my children appeared to still be intact and they both were each carrying around their favorite toys (an Ariel mermaid doll and a Thomas the train engine). In other words, there had been no vicious ice axe attacks so that one might have the other's favorite toy...

The mystery was fleeting, but the idea of a blog wasn't. That ice axe lying on the floor reminded me that one question regularly arises when we are getting ready to go into the field. How do I attach my ice axe to my backpack?

Most backpacks have two loops that hang down off the back of the pack. To attach the ice axe, one must slide the shaft down into one of the loops with the pick facing in toward the center of the pack.

In this photo it is possible to see that the ice axe's pick
is facing toward the center. You can see that if the straps that hold it
in place were to fail, the axe would not fall off.

After the axe has been dropped down into the loop, rotate the spike up toward the top of the pack. Usually there is some kind of strap or buckle that can be fastened over the shaft so that the axe stays in place. The Black Diamond pack in the following picture has a special cord with a toggle to hold the axe in place.

A pack with an ice axe properly stowed.

After I took these pictures I found a nice hole in the backyard. It looked a little bit like somebody had been using a hoe to scrape up the grass. I immediately knew better. To me, it looked like an adze had been been at work.

After discovering that, I decided that it would probably be best if two little kids were not playing with an ice axe. There will be time enough for that when they're older...

--Jason D. Martin

Sunday, December 25, 2011

December - January Events


Happy Holidays from AAI!

1/5 - 1/8 -- Ouray, CO -- Ouray Ice Fest

1/7/2012 -- Jackson Hole, WY -- Ski Mountaineering Championships

1/7 - 1/28 -- Skagit Valley - WA -- Skagit Valley Eagle Festival

1/14 -- 1/15 -- Cheongsong, Korea -- Ice Climbing World Cup

1/20 -- Seattle, WA -- Backcountry Film Fest

1/20 - 1/22 -- Saas Fee, Switzerland -- Ice Climbing World Cup

1/27 - 1/29 -- Franconia Notch Region, NH -- VICE Fest 2012

1/28 -- Ouray, CO -- Hilaree O'neil Slide Show


Saturday, December 24, 2011

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!!

Twas the day before Christmas and all over the slopes
All the skiers and boarders had powdery hopes.
Dreams of short lift lines and fluffy white stuff,
Untracked lines and racing your slough.



But to what should the wandering eyes should appear?
Is it the local ski rep with freebies and gear?
Oh I see now it's that jolly old elf
Jumping and spinning and hucking himself.



If you've been naughty and cut the lines at the lift
You'd better start worrying if you'll get a gift
But if you've been good throughout the last year,
You might get a gift you'll cherish so dear.



Merry Christmas everyone!!

Friday, December 23, 2011

AIARE Avalanche Level I

just got done teaching my third AIARE Avalanche 1 course of the season.  these courses have one classroom day in Bellingham followed by two days in the Mt. Baker ski area backcountry.  For the most part the weather has been pretty cooperative, and despite the low snow pack, we have managed to get in a few good turns.


Route finding in the backcountry.
Terrain trap.
Navigation in poor weather.
Skinning uphill

Rimmed trees.




Rimed trees at Herman saddle

Not the best skinning conditions.  


The weather for this last class was forecast to be awful (mid 30's and raining).  Saturday turned out pretty nice.  Sunday had such a bad forecast I made the decision to not take my camera out.  Turns out it was a pretty nice day also.  All these photos are from near Artist Point on Saturday.  

Skinning toward Artist Point.

Erin's Group on the ridge getting ready to head down.  

Erin, showing us how its done.  

Kurt


Nice turn!




Skiing off Artist Point.
Alasdair Turner, Instructor and Guide

Thursday, December 22, 2011

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 12/22/11

Northwest:


--Two women who became lost while snowshoeing near Heather Meadows at Mount Baker on Saturday, December 10th, were rescued later that night. To read more, click here.

--The family of an 11-year-old Lake Stevens girl who was killed after being struck by a boulder of ice in the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest last year is suing the U.S. Forest Service. The suit filed this week alleges that signs at the popular Big Four Ice Caves fail to adequately warn visitors about the potential danger from the kind of ice avalanche that killed Grace Tam on July 31st, 2010. According to the suit, the Forest Service failed to maintain danger signs warning people of the risks of collapsing ice, snow and unstable caves along the trail to the caves. To read more, click here.

--State lawmakers are asking for a delay in layoffs of park rangers. The Parks and Recreation Commission recently notified one-hundred and sixty employees that their jobs are under threat due to lower-than-expected revenue from the new $30 Discover parking pass for state lands. Should the change take place, many of the state park employees will become seasonal five-months-a-year employees. To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--A little boy is in critical condition Monday after falling 60 feet from a chair lift Sunday. It happened around 11:15 a.m. at the Sugar Bowl Ski Resort where the 7-year-old member of the Sugar Bowl Ski Team was training. The child was riding with two other young skiers when he fell 60 feet from the Mt.Lincoln chair lift onto a hard-packed surface. To read more, click here.

--Steve “Shipoopoi” Schneider, a well-known Yosemite climber recently confessed to a "climbing crime" committed thirty years ago. Schneider was responsible for chopping the bolts of Wings of Steel (a route on El Capitan) and defecating on the first ascentionists ropes. The reason? Valley locals didn't think that up and comers like Richard Jensen and Mark Smith should have had the honor of creating a first ascent on the big stone because they hadn't put in much valley time. To read the confession, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--Park rangers responded this week to assist an injured rock climber in the Saddle Rock area of Joshua Tree National Park on Friday. William Becher, 65, fell 30-feet in a climbing accident and sustained injuries to his lower extremities. Mr. Becher was flown by Mercy Air to Desert Regional Hospital in Palm Springs for treatment of his injuries. National Park Service rangers were notified of the accident at approximately noon on Friday. Ten members of the park’s Joshua Tree Search-and-Rescue (JOSAR) team responded to the incident. To read more, click here and here.

--The governors of Arizona, South Dakota, Washington and Utah recently convened at the Yucca Valley Community Center to discuss the value of the recreational economy, national parks, wildlands and tourism. The day before, the National Park Service held a public symposium about the economic value of Joshua Tree National Park. These events were special not only because they attracted significant media coverage and engaged four very powerful western governors, but also because they focused on an often overlooked, but potent source of revenue: recreational tourism.To read more, click here.

--A Utah Park ranger who narrowly escaped death after surviving a November 19th, 2010, shooting at a trailhead near Moab is ready to return to work. Brody Young, who was shot nine times by a man he approached about camping illegally, has recovered from his injuries enough to return to the job, Deena Loyola, a spokeswoman for Utah State Parks, has confirmed. To read more, click here.

Himalaya:

--Apa Sherpa, the Nepalese climber who has reached the summit of Mount Everest a record 21 times, announced this week that he plans to embark on a grueling 1,060-mile traverse across the Himalayas. The 51-year-old climber, dubbed "Super Sherpa", will set off next month on the 120-day walk with fellow climber Dawa Steven Sherpa in an attempt raise awareness of climate change. To read more, click here.

--Reaching the summit of K2 in the summer is one of mountaineering's most difficult and deadly challenges. Now, a team of Russians is attempting what no other has yet achieved: scaling the world's second tallest mountain in the winter. To read more, click here.

Reddomain - Photo by Andy Bourne

--A Chinese team composed of Yan DongDong and Zhou Peng established three new routes in the Minya Konka Range of China's Sichuan Province. The pair climbed the north face of Reddomain (20,052'), the west face of Jiazi (21,161') and the south face of Xiao Gongga (19,448'). The second ascent of Reddomain was made during an American Alpine Institute expedition to the region. To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Bonnie Prudden, a leading Gunks rock climber from the 1940s and 1950s, died on December 11th at the age of 97. To read more, click here.

--An 18-year-old climber was airlifted to St. Anthony Central hospital after suffering head and leg injuries during a 30-foot fall in Colorado's Eldorado State Park on Saturday afternoon. The climber, identified as Dalton Jones, was climbing a route called Rewritten on Redgarden Wall when his rope became snagged. Jones rappelled down to try and free his rope when he rapelled off the rope ends, falling around 30-feet to the ground. To read more, click here.


--Our own little Andrew Yasso, AAI guide and Alaska Programs Coordinator, has grown up. His picture ice climbing somehow made its way onto billboards all over Michigan and Wisconsin. While many AAI guides have graced the pages of Climbing, Rock and Ice, Outside, Backpacker, and even newspapers like the New York Times, it is our sincere belief that none of our guides have ever made it to the status of billboard model. Way to go Andrew!

--In a repeat of last year, it appears that weather will delay the start of Lonnie Dupre’s bid to become the first solo climber to summit North America’s highest mountain during the month of January. Dupre had hoped to Denali Basecamp yesterday. To read more, click here.

--Consider making an end of the year contribution to the American Safe Climbing Association. To check out all the good that they do for all of us, click here.

--The engineers at Black Diamond have done some interesting tests on "rope-resting." In other words, they looked at how the quality of rope elongation decreases when the rope doesn't have time to rest between falls. To read the study, click here.

--The question is a good one: do we need more lifts to shred more pow? Some would argue yes, most who have spent time in the backcountry would argue no. But there is a movement afoot throughout the ski industry to add terrain, even though there don't seem to be more skiers. To read more, click here.

--The first-ever Outdoor Alliance Partnership Summit kicked off on the evening of Dec. 6, at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, CO. The two-day meeting brought together field staff and volunteers from each of the six OA groups—as well as representatives from state and federal land management agencies—to share stories of successful working relationships from around the United States. “When people think of public lands, it’s too often that they focus on the same old argument of recreation versus extraction,” says Adam Cramer, Policy Architect for OA. “This event brought leaders together to figure out how to strike the best balance of land use and protection.” To read more, click here.

--Three women and thirty-eight days on one of the biggest walls in the world. Intrigued? To learn more, click here.

Equipment Concerns and Recalls:

--There is currently a recall underway for unmarked aluminum rappel rings. It appears that these were shipped by KONG, but there is speculation that they may have gone out with other distributors as well. The rings have fractured and failed under extremely low loads. To read more, click here.

--There is currently a recall out for Univex Funride Ski Helmets that were sold between January 2009 and April 2011. To read more, click here.

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Mountain Conditions December 21st

NORTHWEST: 

-- Roads, Routes, Trails --




Looking up Lovers' Lane on Lane Peak
Photo: Stephen Bobick


Looking Down the middle of Lovers' Lane
Photo: Stephen Bobick
An exposed ice section in the zipper immediately
below the top on the rappel. Photo: Stephen Bobick



-- Weather and Avalanche --

SIERRA: 

-- Tahoe Ice is Going off! Read all about it. 

--Weather and Avalanche --
-- Webcams --

RED ROCK CANYON:

-- Weather --

-- Webcam --
-- The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.


JOSHUA TREE:

--Weather 
--Webcam

ALPS:



ALASKA:
 We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Santa's Rappelling Dillema

In late November, Santa decided to make a dramatic entrance into the Gardens Mall in Palm Beach, Florida. But instead of flying in behind eight tiny reindeer, Santa decided to rappel in. But unfortunately, Santa isn't very good at rappelling...

Indeed, Santa's so bad at rappelling, that it's lucky that he's still in one piece.



As a parent with young children, I can just imagine their thoughts.  First, they would probably be horrified.  And then after the horror wore off a little bit, they would probably ask a number of questions...you know, like:

"Why did Santa let go of the rope when he was trying to free himself. What if the device somehow released when he was trying to pull the rope through.  Santa would have gone splat!"

"Why didn't Santa have an autoblock back-up on his rope or wrap the rope around his leg while he tried to work his beard out?  You know, so he would have been safer and not gone splat?"

"Why didn't Santa have a couple of prussik cords or slings that he could have used to climb up the rope to release his beard?"

"Why didn't Santa just rappel on an extension? You know, like the guy in the next picture?  This would have put the device up high enough that his beard would have been less likely to get stuck."


And lastly, "why was it again that Santa didn't just fly in with his sleigh?"

The kids might have some comments too, like, "Santa needs to take a class. Mrs. Claus should get him a course with AAI...you know, so that he's around to bring us gifts next year!"


My three-year old and four-year old are really smart.  They're so smart that they even found this cool write-up and description of exactly what Santa could have done...

Happy Holidays from all of us at the American Alpine Institute!

--Jason D. Martin

Monday, December 19, 2011

Tricks in the Alpine - Episode 3


Traveling and living in the alpine environment can pose many challenges, and often times it is the little tips and tricks that make existing in the alpine more enjoyable. Many of these tips and tricks have been passed down from climber to climber and guide to guide, but some of them are stumbled upon randomly and seem so inconsequential that they often don't get shared.

Well - I would like to change that! In an effort to do so, I'm introducing a new series to this blog, called "Tricks in the Alpine." In each episode, we will attempt to share alpine trickery that you may or may not know already. Please feel free to comment on how you've used these tricks, expanded on them, or look forward to using them!

1. Get rid of your auto-locking carabiners.


Let's face it, auto-locking carabiners have their place.  And that place is in a climbing gym (or some may argue during an AMGA Guide exam!).  In the alpine terrain however, having a mixed rack of auto-locking and screw-gate carabiners can lead to confusion and potentially even un-locked carabiners.  Additionally, auto-locking carabiners are more prone to sticking/freezing in an unlocked/locked position, and are extremely difficult to handle with one hand.  I made a quick video showing me trying to put a one handed clove hitch into a auto-locking carabiner versus a screw-gate.  To be fair, I practiced many times with the auto-locking carabiner and was actually able to do it one handed, even though it was still very difficult.  With gloves on - not sure I could have done it.  Additionally you can even see it stick for a second in between me putting the rope in, and then getting the clove in.  With the screw-gate biner, it's as smooth as silk pie.  Of course I would have locked the carabiner afterwards too if I was using it appropriately.

Perhaps I only saved a few seconds and a small amount of effort, but in the alpine - everything counts.





2. Use wire-gates, and size them appropriately.


Wire-gate carabiners are lighter, less prone to freezing and "gate-flutter," and come in all sorts of shapes and sizes.  For non-lockers, there is little to no reason (if you have the available budget) to get anything but a wire-gates for the alpine terrain.  Sure you could spring for key-locking wire-gates that have a hooded nose, or use your key-locking solid gate carabiners for sport climbing - but in the alpine it's all about weight and functionality.  Additionally, choose the size that makes sense.  I always used to go with the lightest, smallest wire-gate, until I found that those are extremely hard to open with gloves on.  Although you generally want to go as light as possible when your climbing hard, alpine terrain - you still want to be able to use your gear.  Going with a lightweight but slightly larger wire-gate serves me well when I've got heavy gloves on.

Two differently sized wire-gates.  The one on the left I like to use for ice climbing when I have gloves on.   The one on the right I prefer for rock climbing when I have more dexterity.  
That's it for this episode.

--Andrew Yasso
Program Coordinator & Guide

Sunday, December 18, 2011

December - January Events

12/21 -- Hood River, OR -- Mark Hudon Slideshow

12/24 -- Oahu, HI -- Fool Moon Madness

1/7 - 1/28 -- Skagit Valley - WA -- Skagit Valley Eagle Festival

1/14 -- 1/15 -- Cheongsong, Korea -- Ice Climbing World Cup

1/20 -- Seattle, WA -- Backcountry Film Fest

1/20 - 1/22 -- Saas Fee, Switzerland -- Ice Climbing World Cup

1/27 - 1/29 -- Franconia Notch Region, NH -- VICE Fest 2012

1/28 -- Ouray, CO -- Hilaree O'neil Slide Show

1/5 - 1/8 -- Ouray, CO -- Ouray Ice Fest

Saturday, December 17, 2011

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!!

The only real question about this video is this:
Which is more awesome, the skiing or background music?



Friday, December 16, 2011

Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs

Trip: Dragontail - Triple Couloirs

Date: 12/9/2011

High pressure in the Cascades, especially in the Winter, is something that can not and should not be wasted.  Seeing as we have been having an unusual stretch of good Winter weather, my buddy Kirk Turner and I headed into the Enchantments to try the Triple Couloirs route on Dragontail Peak. This route is a classic Winter/Spring Cascade objective.  Neither of us had tried a route like this before, so we were excited with a bit of trepidation. We also weren't sure what conditions were like, so went in with open minds and found that they needed to be expanded even a bit more.

Photo essay ensues. 


Dragontail peak with the route we climbed drawn in.  Dotted lines mark where the route goes behind the visible rock.  Blue arrow denotes our one rappel to get into the second couloir.

Necessary Gear...
 
 Kirk climbing into the first couloir through a short bit of mixed. 

 Kirk in the middle of the first couloir.
Kirk moving through a slot on the first couloir.

There is a section of ice runnels on this route which are not currently in. We found a variation 200 feet up from the runnels. The variation currently involves some steep loose snow over rock. I found a rappel anchor (a piton and a stopper with a red sling attached) into the second couloir, but it looked like I would be rapping into a bone dry section of the couloir. I elected to climb an 80 foot pitch of mixed 5.8/5.9 to another anchor I spotted above (a 2-piton anchor with a purple sling). The anchor was slung in an American death triangle, which we recommend you not using. Due to a mind expanding incident on this pitch, I did not cut and replace the sling - something that I normally do while in the mountains.

The entrance to the variation we took on the route.


Kirk moving through some mixed terrain before roping up for our first pitch.

Another shot of Kirk styling it!

After lowering/rapelling into the second couloir, Kirk climbed into a little alcove that had some tattered slings and a previous anchor. He hand pulled one of the pitons in this anchor, so we decided to remove the tat and left over pitons. We scored two carabiners in the process

At the top of the second couloir, into the third, is the only true exposed ice on the route we encountered.  I placed a 13cm screw and we simul-climbed until a mixed section above forced us to place a belay.

Kirk and his bomber 3-piece anchor after his stellar mixed lead that involved some cams and pitons.

A cool reflection shot!

Kirk at the top of the third couloir.

Headed up the last snowfield and a bit of mixed climbing to the summit.

Obligatory Summit Shot.

Down-climbing some ice bulges on the decent down Asgard Pass.

What a great trip, with beautiful weather, with an awesome friend. Hard to beat trips like this (for me) in the mountains. Overall we climbed two pitches of mixed, simul-climbed a few sections and the rest was cruiser.  Just goes to show how there are phenomenal winter routes in the Cascades - and winter has only just started!  If you ever want to join us on one, check out our page on Winter Alpine and Ice Climbing here in the Northwest.  Given the opportunity, I would love to run up this route again!

Thanks Cascades.

--Andrew Yasso
Guide & Alaska Programs Coordinator